How does one buy a cue (not how to choose, exactly)
- Thread starter Linwood
- Start date
Thanks for the heads-up.
I'm not the OP and really wasn't looking for a cue, but I just grabbed one of these myself.
Too good to pass up!
Your making it sound more complicated than it needs to be.
If you have tried some freinds cues, you most likely have an idea of what kind of tip diameter and type of taper you like. Tip, ferrule and shaft is what`s gonna make up most of the feedback that goes into you liking a cue or not.
The but will react differently depending on woods and construction method, but it`s not that different. The type of grip (or lack thereof) is something you might want to consider. Most production cues comes stock with irish linen, but you can get all kinds of leather, stacked leather and cork, or you might prefer a cue with no grip.
A quality production cue is a very safe place to start. A Mezz in the EC7 range with their 12.5mm tip diameter WX700 shaft can be had for under $400, they come stock at around 19oz, but you can change the weight bolts, so anything from about 18oz to 21oz is possible.
Perhaps missed in the above but I do not HAVE any friends with cues. That's part of the reason I started this topic.
I am working on finding places with tables to play. Only one and I may be able to meet people, but so far only be there during tournaments (and only 2 tables). I can't stand to be in all the other pool rooms due to the very heavy smoke, I just don't tolerate it well enough to be there. Their privilege, not trying to start an argument, but it does make it more difficult.
Lots of people are going to say different because they don't know any better, but I am going to give you the truth about cues. There are really only two main differences.
The first is whether it has the taper, weight, balance point, shaft flex, hit, etc that you prefer, or whether it doesn't. With very few exceptions, every cue out there can be used to play the game at the absolute highest level that pool can possibly be played at if it is in the hands of someone for whom the cue fits their preferences, and of course if they have the ability to play at that highest level. Sure there are some differences in cues in how easily you can draw the ball, or how much deflection they have, etc, but most of those differences that might on the surface seem to be a bonus generally come with some kind of drawback as well and so there is usually a trade off and at the end of the day it still all falls under the personal preference category.
The second is the quality of the craftsmanship in the cue, and almost all the cues made today have enough quality to last for a long time and to play well if it meets your preferences. Anything over about $150 almost certainly does, and even many of those under that do as well. You can pay a whole lot more than that for great and elaborate artistry, or for higher quality execution of detail, but after a few hundred dollars none of that is affecting how well the cue plays or how long it will last.
There really is no such thing as a "good cue" (or a "bad cue"), as most cues are good, so all the "so and so cues hit so good" that you hear on here or anywhere else are meaningless unless you just happen to have the exact same preferences that they do. There is however a such thing as a good cue for you, or a cue that is not so good for you. It is all a matter of finding the cue that fits your preferences, and what may be the best cue in the world for you might be one of the worst in the world for the next guy.
At your stage of playing, you don't know what your preferences are yet. Even worse than that, even when you do develop some definite preferences, they are almost certain to change at least once and probably several times as you continue to get better and develop your game.
For all the reasons above, my suggestion at this point is that if you do buy a cue, buy something cheap, as you are almost certain to want to change to another cue as you discover new preferences or your preferences change.
As far as being able to know how to order a cue without having hit with it first, well it is nearly impossible, again because it is all about how well it matches your preferences which you just won't know until you play with it. You have a better chance if you can describe your preferences to someone for them to recommend something for to you but even then it is a low odds crap shoot because unlike the weight or balance point so much of it is subjective and what may be "hard" or "stiff" to you will be "soft" or "whippy" to somebody else as examples. Buying a cue you haven't hit with is a crap shoot that you are likely to lose once you have some definite preferences, but right now it probably doesn't matter a whole lot since one cue is going to be either the same or as good as the next cue to you. Just keep it cheap since you will almost certainly be changing cues later as you discover your preferences or as they change.
The first is whether it has the taper, weight, balance point, shaft flex, hit, etc that you prefer, or whether it doesn't. With very few exceptions, every cue out there can be used to play the game at the absolute highest level that pool can possibly be played at if it is in the hands of someone for whom the cue fits their preferences, and of course if they have the ability to play at that highest level. Sure there are some differences in cues in how easily you can draw the ball, or how much deflection they have, etc, but most of those differences that might on the surface seem to be a bonus generally come with some kind of drawback as well and so there is usually a trade off and at the end of the day it still all falls under the personal preference category.
The second is the quality of the craftsmanship in the cue, and almost all the cues made today have enough quality to last for a long time and to play well if it meets your preferences. Anything over about $150 almost certainly does, and even many of those under that do as well. You can pay a whole lot more than that for great and elaborate artistry, or for higher quality execution of detail, but after a few hundred dollars none of that is affecting how well the cue plays or how long it will last.
There really is no such thing as a "good cue" (or a "bad cue"), as most cues are good, so all the "so and so cues hit so good" that you hear on here or anywhere else are meaningless unless you just happen to have the exact same preferences that they do. There is however a such thing as a good cue for you, or a cue that is not so good for you. It is all a matter of finding the cue that fits your preferences, and what may be the best cue in the world for you might be one of the worst in the world for the next guy.
At your stage of playing, you don't know what your preferences are yet. Even worse than that, even when you do develop some definite preferences, they are almost certain to change at least once and probably several times as you continue to get better and develop your game.
For all the reasons above, my suggestion at this point is that if you do buy a cue, buy something cheap, as you are almost certain to want to change to another cue as you discover new preferences or your preferences change.
As far as being able to know how to order a cue without having hit with it first, well it is nearly impossible, again because it is all about how well it matches your preferences which you just won't know until you play with it. You have a better chance if you can describe your preferences to someone for them to recommend something for to you but even then it is a low odds crap shoot because unlike the weight or balance point so much of it is subjective and what may be "hard" or "stiff" to you will be "soft" or "whippy" to somebody else as examples. Buying a cue you haven't hit with is a crap shoot that you are likely to lose once you have some definite preferences, but right now it probably doesn't matter a whole lot since one cue is going to be either the same or as good as the next cue to you. Just keep it cheap since you will almost certainly be changing cues later as you discover your preferences or as they change.
I can't believe I hadn't read this post until now. I just returned from 10 days at Bonita Beach. Even went to Cape Coral Saturday to view burrowing owls. I had 3 McDermotts with me and would have gladly met you to hit a few.
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Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
PM me if you come around again, you could come try out my new table. We even have a few Borrowing Owls on my street.
But... you sound like a crazy person -- who comes to SW Florida in the summer!!! :grin:
I'm with you on the smoke thing. I can't believe that places still allow smoking inside in 2017.
Here in Norway, smoking in bars and restaurants was banned in 2002.
Maybe some forummembers here can invite you to a quality establishment, where you can try some cues?
My point was mostly, to make sure you didn't overthink it. Some people get hung up on the most idiotic of details and think they can buy proficiency.
Spent most of my working career in areas with strong no-smoking rules, and lost all tolerance I built up in/after college.
Florida is a very pro-smoking state (e.g. it is not legal for localities to regulate smoking at all, themselves), and SW Florida is retirement central with a lot of older folks and a very high percentage of smokers. Business go where their customers take them I think, and I can't fault them for that. I don't care that people choose to smoke, not trying to convert anyone, I just need to avoid it myself.