I play with Kamui black softs with the clear pad. I need to know when to put a new one on. Can I wait till they wear down to the pad? How much side wall thickness is left when you should get a new one? I have read on here less than the thickness of a dime, a nickel? I need some expert opinions on this.
How far down do your tips get?
- Thread starter lstevedus
- Start date
When I was repairing cues the rule of thumb I used was the thickness of a dime. Anything thinner than that and you were at risk of damaging the ferrule. Especially if you broke with that cue. :smile:
I think the clear backing is there to keep glue from wicking into the layers, allegedly. I don't think it's designed to protect the ferrule. OB shafts have a carbon fiber pad to protect the ferrule, but even then it's still a good idea to change the tip when it gets down to the thickness of a nickle or dime. By that time the tip is probably playing somewhat differently so you might benefit from the change regardless.
Wicking tips
I don't know which one is worse for soaking up thin CA like putting water on a sponge.....
Kamui and snipers tips are known for being a pain to glue on and stay on.
One drop of thin CA is soaked in so fast its scary.
I have to wonder if all the guys who complain about their Kamui tips glazing if its not really the CA that soaked into the tip and all the scuffing and chalking is a fruitless effort.
I don't know which one is worse for soaking up thin CA like putting water on a sponge.....
Kamui and snipers tips are known for being a pain to glue on and stay on.
One drop of thin CA is soaked in so fast its scary.
I have to wonder if all the guys who complain about their Kamui tips glazing if its not really the CA that soaked into the tip and all the scuffing and chalking is a fruitless effort.
My last Kamui started glazing shorty after installing it, so no abortion of glue. Cut it off with a lot of life left.
As to the original question, my tip starts playing funky when it needs to be replaced and it needs more maintenance. Now that may be the glue penetration.
Besides the clear pad, the very bottom black layer is plastic too. So when you see two black layers left, time to replace.
When the tip leather is down to twice the height of its clear gel pad...... it's time to look for a new tip.
Check with Shooter08 (Tom).....he sold me all my Clear tips for 3 cues. He didn't mention the 2x measurement.......I got that from another respectable source.
The pad resists the penetration of the glue into the leather which causes the leather to become dry and hard therefore extending the life and play/performance of the tip.
What I also found was that with Kamui Clear tips, I went down one level of hardness to soft & also some super soft tips instead of the Kamui Black medium I was using.
My Kamui Clear Black tips don't glaze like the Kamui Black tips did and the feel is tremendous......Remember to go down one level of hardness if you switch to Kamui Clear.
Matt B.
Check with Shooter08 (Tom).....he sold me all my Clear tips for 3 cues. He didn't mention the 2x measurement.......I got that from another respectable source.
The pad resists the penetration of the glue into the leather which causes the leather to become dry and hard therefore extending the life and play/performance of the tip.
What I also found was that with Kamui Clear tips, I went down one level of hardness to soft & also some super soft tips instead of the Kamui Black medium I was using.
My Kamui Clear Black tips don't glaze like the Kamui Black tips did and the feel is tremendous......Remember to go down one level of hardness if you switch to Kamui Clear.
Matt B.
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