How important is the cue for beginner-novice level?

kleinm3351f said:
Hi all... Recently started on a league team and I have my own decent Viking $300 cue already. I've witnessed newbies to intermediate level players purchase and trade several new cues and break cues in less than a year. Yes, their play has gotten better, but I'm thinking very little has to do with the cue.

I've always been under the assumption that unless you are solidly intermediate, heading towards advanced, particularly with cue ball control in every situation, the cue is much less important than the main physical aspects of play.

I just sort of smile and nod my head and it's nice to try different peoples' purchases, but do you think it's actually making them any better?
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The cue is you... Guy
 
Guy Manges said:
The cue is you... Guy
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The_JV said:
Used an entry level falcon that I damaged during demo for +20yrs. Only upgrade I did was to move to a predator Z2 shaft after a couple of years. Never gave a thought about it's weight, balance, construction, etc. Moved to a different cue only for sake of cosmetics a little while ago.

Those who swap equipment constantly will never gain any consistency. As always, look to the snooker players to see the example of how things should be done.
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I don't like but I will agree with you , I've played with an old timer at a senior center and he can play 8 ball , I ask him about his stick and he said about ten or twelve years. He didn't know the weight or the tip and didn't care... Guy
 
hang-the-9 said:
Before you think about changing cues, learn about how deflection works and how different shafts affect your play in general. That is the only real reason to "upgrade" past wanting something different looking. Cue length, hit feel and balance are bit parts of the equation of a full cue but ball pocketing is all in the shaft. Find some people with different cues and shafts, have someone explain to you how aiming and deflection works. Then find something you like. Without trying maybe 10 shafts/cues it will not be easy to form your own opinion on what to get.

IMHO for someone that knows they will stick with the sport, there is no such thing as a "beginner" cue since you are going to be learning to play with the shaft you have. Since the shaft you use will affect how you aim, you don't want to be changing shafts around as you get better. It's not like a sports car where you want to learn to drive well before getting into a 600hp rear wheel drive car. A fancier cue with a good shaft you like won't make you mess up any more or be harder to control.

I suggest people start out with a good low deflection shaft to learn with from the start so they don't need to spend a lot of time learning to aim with side spin, but also get knowledge about the cues in genera including standard ole shafts. Just going up to higher quality or more expensive cues just for the sake of paying more to get a "better" cue is no good.
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I agree but, As time goes by in the industry of pool all needs to be addressed... Pride even players a big part for someone with a love of game... Guy
 
Chili Palmer said:
Clearly, there has to be a minimum level of quality but even a cheap $100 Lucky Cue would be fine for a starter. As long it's got a decent build quality and a decent tip, not much else matters.

I also agree with the thought of going LD if you're just starting out.
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You can take a house cue and eliminate the squirt with a pocket rock or file in a hurry... Guy
 
lfigueroa said:
Yes, it is essential that you become accustomed to playing with the same cue — if nothing else it eliminates one variable for poor play : -)

Find a cue that you like and stick with it. In time you’ll want to experiment and try different sticks and if you’re like most pool players you will cycle through a goodly number of cues until you settle down with your “keeper.” But that will most probably be years down the road.

Lou Figueroa
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Except for alcohol most sticks out last their player... Guy
 
Ratta said:
Nailed it--- a "normal well manufactured" cue with a LD shaft is the way. And thx god this is nowadays available for 300 bucks and below (roundabout).
To start with regular shafts- and then start years later with LD is a pain in the ass and can be a nightmare :)
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Glad to hear that they have LD cues for less than 300. D ... Guy
 
Well I am surprised the thread has lasted so long, and so many replied. It's a NO BRAINER, Not ARROW, INDIAN is the skill.

Any Cue, is same, as it make a constant, be it good, bad, or indifferent.
 
Buy a really good cue, be it carbon technology or old technology. Then learn to use it. Find the tip that best suites you. Beginners often do better with very soft tips , and as they get better will progress towards a harder tip like a medium. I don't know of any players that play with Hard tips. But the cue tip is very import to how you play and how you perceive the cue to play.
 
A 58" cue is too short for me. Went to a local store and purchased a Predator Sneaky Pete with a Revo 12.4 shaft and a cue extension. I also picked up two used shafts, a 12.9 and 11.8. The 12.9 is not right for me but not sure between the 12.4 and 11.8. I'll figure it out in the next few weeks and will stick with the one I choose for about a year and then possibly re-evaluate.
 
Guy Manges said:
You can take a house cue and eliminate the squirt with a pocket rock or file in a hurry... Guy
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Patrick Johnson said:
How?
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Guy Manges said:
You must know as well as I
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That's what I'm afraid of, because I don't know what you're saying. For one thing, squirt can't be "eliminated", only reduced. For another, what's a "pocket rock"? Finally, what specifically can be done "with a pocket rock or file in a hurry"?

Please enlighten me/us.

pj
chgo
 
Pocket rock is a cube name old time I guess, just rough up tip to your shape , mark end too end and at two half off center of cb and adjust not to completely eliminate seems to work... Guy
 
Guy Manges said:
Pocket rock is a cube name old time I guess, just rough up tip to your shape , mark end too end and at two half off center of cb and adjust not to completely eliminate seems to work... Guy
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Still don't know exactly what you're saying, but I do know that, for a given cue, squirt is entirely determined by where you hit the CB regardless of tip shape or grooming.

pj
chgo
 
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