How important is the cue for beginner-novice level?

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kleinm3351f

New member
Hi all... Recently started on a league team and I have my own decent Viking $300 cue already. I've witnessed newbies to intermediate level players purchase and trade several new cues and break cues in less than a year. Yes, their play has gotten better, but I'm thinking very little has to do with the cue.

I've always been under the assumption that unless you are solidly intermediate, heading towards advanced, particularly with cue ball control in every situation, the cue is much less important than the main physical aspects of play.

I just sort of smile and nod my head and it's nice to try different peoples' purchases, but do you think it's actually making them any better?
 
The only thing a learner truly needs, IMHO, is consistency. I think I tried 5-10 different cues when I bought my first one. A PJ Viking felt the best and worked great for 14 years before I stumbled into the world of custom cues.
 
kleinm3351f said:
Hi all... Recently started on a league team and I have my own decent Viking $300 cue already. I've witnessed newbies to intermediate level players purchase and trade several new cues and break cues in less than a year. Yes, their play has gotten better, but I'm thinking very little has to do with the cue.

I've always been under the assumption that unless you are solidly intermediate, heading towards advanced, particularly with cue ball control in every situation, the cue is much less important than the main physical aspects of play.

I just sort of smile and nod my head and it's nice to try different peoples' purchases, but do you think it's actually making them any better?
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The cue makes very little difference. As long as the tip is decent, I can play close to 100% with most random house cues.
 
It makes a difference.

Just like any sport or hobby, once you have established a persistent interest, it is worth investing in reasonably well made equipment especially for learning the game. Around $500 for a cue.

For example, learning to play acoustic guitar... if you invest in an $800-$1000 Martin compared to a cheap $200 Yamaha etc., you will feel much more comfortable learning how to play, easier to barre (better action), the sound will be clean and consistent, it will stay in tune, will make your learning experience more pleasant and will keep your interest. It will also make you feel guilty for not using your investment which is great for motivation. Spoken from experience.

Another example, I bought a $400 Diamondback for my first mountain bike, and struggled. I then rode someone's $2000 soft-tail and even though I was the same experience level, it felt so much better that I never rode my bike again... and didn't continue the hobby. I should have bought a better bike to begin with.
 
Depends on if you plan to improve over time. I've seen lots of example of people that buy a cheap (sub $100) cue and never replace them for decades... probably not replacing the tip either. This is fine for them because they never had the intention or drive to get a lot better.

BUT, if you think you can and want to improve over time, then you should have a cue that is at least mid level with a good medium tip. Because if you don't it will be very difficult to learn and get a feel for controlling the cue ball correctly. Doesn't need to be super expensive, but expect to spend around $250-$300.
 
kleinm3351f said:
Hi all... Recently started on a league team and I have my own decent Viking $300 cue already. I've witnessed newbies to intermediate level players purchase and trade several new cues and break cues in less than a year. Yes, their play has gotten better, but I'm thinking very little has to do with the cue.

I've always been under the assumption that unless you are solidly intermediate, heading towards advanced, particularly with cue ball control in every situation, the cue is much less important than the main physical aspects of play.

I just sort of smile and nod my head and it's nice to try different peoples' purchases, but do you think it's actually making them any better?
Click to expand...
Your Viking is an excellent cue, I really mean that. They might be the most underrated manufacturer of cues right now. The Vicore is an excellent shaft and their regular maple shafts have very nice playing tapers. And you're right, there is no need to be swapping cues left and right at this stage. Stick with it for as long as possible. I'm a hopeless cue swapping addict, there is still hope for you. Get the fundamentals down now, while you have not bad habits to break. 200 dollars spent on some lessons now will pay off with interest in the future. Get a local knowledgable shortstop to give you some pointers if lessons are too expensive where you live. It's so important to start up well.

If you want to try something new, try to make an arrangement where you can borrow a cue for a few days from a friend. It's easier to get a good reading after a day or two has passed. You'll likely find that it's not all that much better than your current cue, maybe it's worse.
 
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I find not taking enough time to get used to something can cause issues.

I know a few target shooters that never get to the level they like because the are constantly changing gear. They never keep the same stuff long enough to get good with it.
 
The most important characteristic for a new, learning player is how much squirt or cue ball deflection the cue has. When you start to play with sidespin, this comes into play. If you try to change cues after learning the squirt compensation for one cue, it will be hard unless the cue has about the same amount of squirt. Some players adapt quickly and some just can't adapt to a large change.

I recommend that beginners start with an LD (low deflection or squirt) cue. It's easier to learn sidespin if there is less compensation.

There are low-squirt, well built cues available for under $100, or at least there were before all the global shortages. (I see the one I was recommending is now over $100 and still out of stock.)
 
Used an entry level falcon that I damaged during demo for +20yrs. Only upgrade I did was to move to a predator Z2 shaft after a couple of years. Never gave a thought about it's weight, balance, construction, etc. Moved to a different cue only for sake of cosmetics a little while ago.

Those who swap equipment constantly will never gain any consistency. As always, look to the snooker players to see the example of how things should be done.
 
I believe that a new, semi-serious player should have their own cue, something solid, 18-20oz. Spend one-fifty to three hundred on it. Simple, classic design that they can sell, or turn into a break cue, bar cue, loaner, etc.

New players should play with something consistent to take one variable away from their development. Intermediate players should play with different cues to figure out what works best for them, and as a bit of additional training.
 
kleinm3351f said:
Hi all... Recently started on a league team and I have my own decent Viking $300 cue already. I've witnessed newbies to intermediate level players purchase and trade several new cues and break cues in less than a year. Yes, their play has gotten better, but I'm thinking very little has to do with the cue.

I've always been under the assumption that unless you are solidly intermediate, heading towards advanced, particularly with cue ball control in every situation, the cue is much less important than the main physical aspects of play.

I just sort of smile and nod my head and it's nice to try different peoples' purchases, but do you think it's actually making them any better?
Click to expand...

Before you think about changing cues, learn about how deflection works and how different shafts affect your play in general. That is the only real reason to "upgrade" past wanting something different looking. Cue length, hit feel and balance are bit parts of the equation of a full cue but ball pocketing is all in the shaft. Find some people with different cues and shafts, have someone explain to you how aiming and deflection works. Then find something you like. Without trying maybe 10 shafts/cues it will not be easy to form your own opinion on what to get.

IMHO for someone that knows they will stick with the sport, there is no such thing as a "beginner" cue since you are going to be learning to play with the shaft you have. Since the shaft you use will affect how you aim, you don't want to be changing shafts around as you get better. It's not like a sports car where you want to learn to drive well before getting into a 600hp rear wheel drive car. A fancier cue with a good shaft you like won't make you mess up any more or be harder to control.

I suggest people start out with a good low deflection shaft to learn with from the start so they don't need to spend a lot of time learning to aim with side spin, but also get knowledge about the cues in genera including standard ole shafts. Just going up to higher quality or more expensive cues just for the sake of paying more to get a "better" cue is no good.
 
Bob Jewett said:
The most important characteristic for a new, learning player is how much squirt or cue ball deflection the cue has. When you start to play with sidespin, this comes into play. If you try to change cues after learning the squirt compensation for one cue, it will be hard unless the cue has about the same amount of squirt. Some players adapt quickly and some just can't adapt to a large change.

I recommend that beginners start with an LD (low deflection or squirt) cue. It's easier to learn sidespin if there is less compensation.

There are low-squirt, well built cues available for under $100, or at least there were before all the global shortages. (I see the one I was recommending is now over $100 and still out of stock.)
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This is the answer. Why learn a bunch of data points and then start over in midflight. Once you decided to get serious get a serious midpriced cue and stick with it.
 
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