How many have hardened leather or the phenolic tip for jump cue?
- Thread starter Bobkitty
- Start date
My Jacoby has a G-10 tip.
Before transitioning to a lighter, dedicated jump cue, I had used a Samsara (hard layered leather) tip on a jump/break cue and found it to be a very effective jumper too.
Before transitioning to a lighter, dedicated jump cue, I had used a Samsara (hard layered leather) tip on a jump/break cue and found it to be a very effective jumper too.
PracticeChampion
Well-known member
I have both the hard leather and phenolic and I feel I jump better with phenolic but have more control with hard leather and the hit just feels better. With that said I'll take being able to get it up and over closer to a ball with phenolic over the leather
Mine is phenolic. It boing gud. For me the ticket to jumps is the weight of the stick. Butt and joint are a little much. A dowel that just plugs into the shaft might be considered an extension and circumvent any cue rules. Kinda moot because I'd have to be playing above world class before I considered competing.
PracticeChampion
Well-known member
I'm at a ball and a half distance for phenolic and almost 2 ball distance for leather to safely get over, anything closer and I better kick LoL.
I've never heard of that one. Interesting??? So, on your jump cue (if you have one), is it a leather tip?
I remember reading somewhere that break cues with phenolic tips could damage the cb with scratch marks. Not sure if a light jump cue with phenolic top will do that, due to it not making such an impact on the cb.
Sounds like a good experiment for Bob J. or Dr. Dave!
The experiment has been done and in fact Dave and I did it on his table a couple of years ago.I remember reading somewhere that break cues with phenolic tips could damage the cb with scratch marks. Not sure if a light jump cue with phenolic top will do that, due to it not making such an impact on the cb.
Sounds like a good experiment for Bob J. or Dr. Dave!
Yes, phenolic tips damage the cue ball. The problem is that when the tip is as hard as the ball, the chalk -- which is ground up sand, more or less -- penetrates each surface about equally. The problem is not that the tip is phenolic, it's just too hard. A metal tip would have the same problem or worse. With a softer tip material, most of the penetration of the sand grains is into the tip.
You can see this for yourself by getting a highly polished, perhaps new ball and shooting break shots on it and looking after each shot to see how much is it scuffed.
This is a good reason to go back to the old way of having a special break ball for smash break games.
I knew I had read it somewhere! Thanks. I remember now, the chalk, getting jammed between the two hard surfaces will penetrate the softer surface. Good stuff.
I didn't know this was ever done - sounds like a good idea. Maybe pool hall owners should hand out extra "break cue balls" with each set...
pj
chgo
Okay, please tell us about your jump shot cue? What tip?
If I play nine ball, I'll use my playing cue for any jump shot.
Okay, thanks.
I'm pretty sure my jump cue tip is a combination plastic and leather material. It might have been experimental at the time, but it's a good concept. It's harder than a leather tip but softens the blow so as not to damage the cb. I can't recall for sure who made it, but I think it may have either been Predator or Bunjee.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I think the realllly old, when they were first starting, and cheap phenolic tips could damage cue balls. I think most manufacturers and tip makers that sell higher quality have figured this out. I wouldn't be surprised if you could still buy a super cheap jump/break cue with the old type.
I used to own some no brand really cheap break cue and use kamuii chalk. Between the two I would have deep scratches on a new cue ball in a few weeks. The kamuii would almost impregnate the surface of the ball, and the phenoic would scratch and drive the kamuii deeper into the scratch/ball. I have an old cue ball from over 10 years ago, tried hand cleaning and it still has blue discoloration in the surface.
Anymore most good tips won't be an issue and some break cue manufacturers make it a point to say it wont damage cue balls. I'd guess they've softened them up a bit.
When I was young, poolrooms would have a separate "break" cue ball and a piece of felt for the shooter to place the ball on.
Then you don't play competitively, because that would put you at an unnecessary disadvantage --- unless you're playing with rules that don't allow jump cues.
Yes, and usually those places didn't allow masse shots or jump shots either. I recall a few places in NY that did that for awhile too. It was all about the house preserving it's equipment and not about the players. Usually the break cue balls were cheap balls that were not of the same weight and composition of the object balls, and that little patch was like a launching pad. Any kind of decent player hated playing in a place that required those things.