How many out there?

Strokerz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Do this or have done this? I know a lot of cuemakers take house cues and make conversions or sneaky petes from them just add a pin some colars and a new shaft. But how may buy lower end sneaky pete cues and turn these into conversions. I have done this a few times. Any one else ?And I dont mean buying a player snaeky pete and sanding the name off signing it slapping some clear on a resell for a 200% mark up, I mean basically using the butt as a ready made pre tapered blank.
 
Strokerz said:
But how may buy lower end sneaky pete cues and turn these into conversions. I have done this a few times. Any one else?

No. This is a bad idea. "Lower end sneaky's" will have the cheapest possible parts on them...even the shaft wood is junk. And they are finished cues so no room to retaper the butts or try and even the points. If you are wanting to make sneaky's then take the time and money to build them with quality parts. Sorry but your way seems you are just adding a part & then renaming them.
 
Strokerz said:
Do this or have done this? I know a lot of cuemakers take house cues and make conversions or sneaky petes from them just add a pin some colars and a new shaft. But how may buy lower end sneaky pete cues and turn these into conversions. I have done this a few times. Any one else ?And I dont mean buying a player snaeky pete and sanding the name off signing it slapping some clear on a resell for a 200% mark up, I mean basically using the butt as a ready made pre tapered blank.
One person did on Ebay.
Bought cheap imports and put his name on it.
 
Varney Cues said:
No. This is a bad idea. "Lower end sneaky's" will have the cheapest possible parts on them...even the shaft wood is junk. And they are finished cues so no room to retaper the butts or try and even the points. If you are wanting to make sneaky's then take the time and money to build them with quality parts. Sorry but your way seems you are just adding a part & then renaming them.
WHat I ment was using the butt section as a blank instead of a house cue. Retapering if needed and adding colars and a new shaft. I have done this but always replaced the stock pin with a 3/8 10 or a radial pin and made a new shaft.I have noticed most point are uneven and thats why I asked if anyone else had this idea. I am in no way a cue maker I have just tinkered around with this idea from old cue parts I have had or slavaged. Any cue I have ever signed my name to I have made from a full splice blank.
 
Strokerz said:
WHat I ment was using the butt section as a blank instead of a house cue. Retapering if needed and adding colars and a new shaft. I have done this but always replaced the stock pin with a 3/8 10 or a radial pin and made a new shaft.I have noticed most point are uneven and thats why I asked if anyone else had this idea. I am in no way a cue maker I have just tinkered around with this idea from old cue parts I have had or slavaged. Any cue I have ever signed my name to I have made from a full splice blank.
How thin did you go?
They are already thin.
Prolly hit soft too.
 
Strokerz said:
WHat I ment was using the butt section as a blank instead of a house cue. Retapering if needed and adding colars and a new shaft. I have done this but always replaced the stock pin with a 3/8 10 or a radial pin and made a new shaft.I have noticed most point are uneven and thats why I asked if anyone else had this idea. I am in no way a cue maker I have just tinkered around with this idea from old cue parts I have had or slavaged. Any cue I have ever signed my name to I have made from a full splice blank.

I don't see why I would want to spend 10 or 15.00 for an Asian Sneaky Pete to redo when for less than 20.00 more I can get a quality blank. Also, most of the cheaper, Asian Sneaky Petes are so slender that nothing further can be done to them. I use nothing but full splice blanks when building "Trappers". The blanks are cheap compared to what you get for the finished product and in this way I get exotic woods, plenty of material to bump around to even up points and large enough at the joint area to make a joint. Many old H/C butts are to small in the joint area. I used to have access to a lot of old Brunswick H/C that had sharp points at both ends and I made some "Trappers" from them but that source dried up.

Dick
 
JoeyInCali said:
How thin did you go?
They are already thin.
Prolly hit soft too.
I have never retapered a butt section on a pre made sneaky I have converted. Now the full splice one I get from atlas or schmelke I taper them down. I like a joint at about .850. My preference is a radial pin. I have been using atlas shafts on all the sneakies I make. Granted I have only made a few dozen.
 
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