Red Label Diamonds, Blue Label Diamonds, & Gold Crowns all bank different. Wouldn't you want to compare a Red Label to a Blue Label to prove your point? Why would you add a Gold Crown to the conversation?
How much is my Diamond table worth?
- Thread starter SPetty
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Red Label Diamonds, Blue Label Diamonds, & Gold Crowns all bank different. Wouldn't you want to compare a Red Label to a Blue Label to prove your point? Why would you add a Gold Crown to the conversation?
Setting up new or tournament used Diamonds actually has very little impact on how they play. What DOES however have an impact.in how the play overall is how they're serviced. An example would be to try finding a GC1 today that still plays the way it did in 1961 when it was first introduced.....good luck. Pool players are NOT the ones responsible for how a pool table plays if it's a quality built table on e it leaves the factory, the so called table mechanics are. This work, or damage done to pool tables by the people working on them do NOT represent the manufacturers, they represent the kind of service being done to them throughout this industry, but it's NOT done by the pool players. When tables don't get cleaned, balls don't get cleaned, cheap other is used, or replaced far to late, that is NOT under the control of the pool players! So WHY is it that every time a table don't play right according to the POOL players.....is it the fault of who built the table in the first place??? Do these SAME pool players NOT understand the tables are now under the control of whom ever does the service on them, that whom ever OWNS them is RESPONSIBLE for maintaining them! It's clear to me that even people that OWN their own pool tables at HOME would first assume the CUSHIONS on their 3 year old/NEW Diamonds are going bad and what is DIAMOND going to do about them??? Yes, even the HOMEOWNER has a responsibility to do some kind of maintenance on their OWN pool table(s) if they EXPECT them to keep playing the way they did when they first bought them! But, unfortunately that is NOT the world I live in, I live in the world where the POOL PLAYERS know more about pool tables than I do, which is why they keep placing blame on something they know NOTHING about!!
Here's ANOTHER little bit of advice for everyone that has a table that humidity is causing the balls to hopp of the rails and play springy....even on a GC!! Take some Armorall, yes Armorall for cleaning the dash, tires and whatever else on your car....spray some on a rag, then wipe the nose of the cushions down on your rails....FRICTIONS GONE!! No more ball hopp, no more springy rails!!!!
I don't really care- you are correct! My point would be to set up a bank shot that goes at medium speed on a center ball to center ball hit WITHOUT any english. NOW, set up that same exact shot to bank a quarter diamond short, and have "the instructor" show me what "cue stroke" he knows of that will make that object ball go into the pocket. I am just saying that I know of no "cue stroke" that achieves that result. He called me out here as a "know it all Mosconi" well - come and prove it then!! That simple. the only methods I know of to lengthen that bank shot are again: outside english on the cue ball, slower bank speed, or hitting the object ball a bit thinner on the left side ( if the OB is traveling to the right) at the same original speed with no english on the cue ball.
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One more to add to the list: ArmorAll (as Glen mentioned). Just grease up the object ball. (Or change the cloth, but that takes longer.
)The Diamond guys set it up, but the one and only realkingcobra stopped by awhile back and re-leveled and set everything up correctly. It's been nice ever since. Maybe that's why I like it so much! Not sure he would remember it other than losing his rearview mirror outside my house...
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With the new table waiting list as long as it is, a lot of people don't want to wait that long to buy a Diamond 7ft, so the used table market has no problem selling used Diamonds. There's basically 3 kinds of buyers on the market, 1) the cheap buyer waiting for a Diamond to fall down into their percieved value price point, in which case they almost never buy one because that's like looking for a needle in a haystack. 2) the person that wants to buy it at a price they can flip it for a profit. And 3) the person that don't want to wait forever to buy one new, but will buy a Diamond that is not over priced compared to new.
Your table.to the serious buyer, with light, is worth about $3.5-$4k, which is far enough under the cost of.new plus delivery & setup, but also not to low as to loose out on it's real market value. As far as converting from red to blue, that's about $1500 additional, requardless of who owns the table, as it's an upgrade. The only way around that is to be happy with the red label, or buy new. There's no one in the TX area that is qualified to make the change over, but there's plenty that will take the money and tell you they know how to change the cushions to make it play like a blue label, which is BS.