How much should a custom cue cost?

[Nekdo]

It`s hard to completly believe what Eddie is saying.Why charge 400 if you can charge 800?If your cues are soooo good then the price on 2nd market would be much higher.There are people who get in line for 4 cues and then sold them for 50% more then they paid for them.It`s normal that the q maker will increase the price.Why wouldn`t he?He must feel like a complete jerk looking someone is making 300+ for nothing.I`m not saying I like sp`s selling for 1000 but if anyone deserves the money this should be the qmaker and not some jerk who has noting to do with the cue at all.
There will always be a minimal price which contains the costs of material and other expenses.The difference between this price and the selling price will determine each maker by itself considering how much people are willing to pay.If you have a waiting line for 5 years and people are throwing money at you why wouldn`t you take it.You can`t make more cues anyway.The only thing I don`t know is if this "waiting lines" are not self made to rise the reputation.Hell if I must wait 5 years for a cue then it must be really good.But i wouldn`t wait this long if they give it for free.

 

[RocketQ]

The price depends on a few things first the materials used, the craftsmanship, fit and finish, intricacy, and then the reputation of the cuemaker. The pricing is like that of furniture. Wood is alive and the cue has to be built that way. Not taking anything away from any one but if I could get 600 for a plain jane I would. The time and money involved with becoming a cuemaker most definitely provokes high price. Just my $0.02...

 

[ShootingArts]

We should get $600 for a plain jane, or close to it.

If we look at the cost of materials and hours in a plain jane, they and sneakies using all new materials should be selling for more like six hundred dollars. However competition in that area has created a buyers market since there is a glut of cuemakers right now and plain janes and sneakies are a super deal. I look for the cuemakers to shake out a bit and cue prices to increase on the low end in a few years. Right now the higher end cue profits subsidizes the sneakies and plain janes, at least that is my opinion.

Hu

The price depends on a few things first the materials used, the craftsmanship, fit and finish, intricacy, and then the reputation of the cuemaker. The pricing is like that of furniture. Wood is alive and the cue has to be built that way. Not taking anything away from any one but if I could get 600 for a plain jane I would. The time and money involved with becoming a cuemaker most definitely provokes high price. Just my $0.02...

 

[CocoboloCowboy]

I think anything over $500.00 is for the good hit after that its eye candy.

Many Cuemakers don't even make a Cue under a GRAND, and if you want one of theirs be prepared to fork out heavy bucks...

But the flip side of the coin is there is a lot of offerings under $500.00, and I am sure if that is your budget you will find some nice cues in that price range.

 

[WheatCues]

It`s hard to completly believe what Eddie is saying.Why charge 400 if you can charge 800?If your cues are soooo good then the price on 2nd market would be much higher.There are people who get in line for 4 cues and then sold them for 50% more then they paid for them.It`s normal that the q maker will increase the price.Why wouldn`t he?He must feel like a complete jerk looking someone is making 300+ for nothing.I`m not saying I like sp`s selling for 1000 but if anyone deserves the money this should be the qmaker and not some jerk who has noting to do with the cue at all.
There will always be a minimal price which contains the costs of material and other expenses.The difference between this price and the selling price will determine each maker by itself considering how much people are willing to pay.If you have a waiting line for 5 years and people are throwing money at you why wouldn`t you take it.You can`t make more cues anyway.The only thing I don`t know is if this "waiting lines" are not self made to rise the reputation.Hell if I must wait 5 years for a cue then it must be really good.But i wouldn`t wait this long if they give it for free.

Your merging your response to my statment with the resale market... I do not build cues for resale due to thier unique length and balance point to the individual player, once a player improves his performance with my cue he has no reason to sell it..... remember, I build tools, not art.... and my cues are a playing investment not monetary !

Collector and resale value cues are a whole different beast which I will never be classified with...

FYI: just incase there was any question.... this is a fulltime job for me, I am not a hobbyist.. so you can see how serious I am about my work and success !



Thanks, Eddie Wheat

 

[mantis99]

If we look at the cost of materials and hours in a plain jane, they and sneakies using all new materials should be selling for more like six hundred dollars.

The problem with this is that I can get a very good hitting cue such as a Schon for $400 (just one example). So, unless I want a piece of artwork, or really want my cue to be a custom, why would I pay $600 for something with the same quality hit, but an even plainer look. Also, a cue like a McDermott has such a strong warranty, that it carries a lot of value. Will I get the same warranty with a cuemaker? Probably some, but not all.

I understand why you say you need to be able to get that much for the cue, but it really is somewhat illogical for the consumer to pay it. People pay extra for custom work (with any product) based on the fact that the product will be better (Ex. Cannondale, Ellsworth mountain bike frames, custom fitted golf clubs, Bentley cars put together by hand, Omish furniture). The problem with a pool cue is that their is not that much that an be done to it to make it play better than a manufactured cue. This leaves you in a position where artwork type cues may be worth it, but a cue made to be played with will not, unless it is near the prices of a Wheat or Dominiak. We all know that these cues will not make us play better. A plain jane or sneaky is purely a playing cue, so how can I pay that much for it, when I can get so much more value out of a well manufactured cue or a cheaper custom maker.

I am not trying to place value on what you do, just saying that while your cues may be worth that based on your labor and costs, the market is not set up to accept that price.

It is true that some makers don't make anything under $1000, but they usually have a name that will allow the cue to retain value. Realistically, in my opinion, these cues are way overpriced also (I am referring to plain janes and sneakys, as the inlaid and decorative cues can be considered more as art than a playing cue, and are much harder to place value on), because I personally do not feel that they will make me play $600 better. A $400 cue and $600 worth of lessons will get me a lot further.

Again, I do not mean to suggest that custom cues should be cheap, just that it is a difficult sale on an expensive playing custom when comparing its value to the more reasonably priced customs and manufactured cues. The fact that many custom makers do it as a hobby and not a living makes it tough for the guy trying to make it a full time deal to charge what he needs to get to survive in the market.

 

[cornerstone]

(cut and pasted from another thread)
Custom cues are the cheapest they have ever been compared to people's income. There is a glut of cuemakers out there and even quality cues are selling cheaply. The recent thread about Madison Bob is a fine example. Regardless of whether the price was $350 or $375 each, that is a ridiculously cheap price for a merry widow with two shafts and nobody has claimed Bob doesn't make a quality cue.
(end included text)


What is a fair price for a custom cue?

A cue maker must have many skills. to make top quality cues he must be a first class machinist, understand adhesives and finishes, and be extremely skilled hand fitting components, something that most people take years to learn. The cue maker also needs to be somewhat of an artist. Then he has to invest between tens of thousands and hundreds of thousands in a shop and stock.

Typical shop rates for anything from small engine and appliance repair to auto repair are $65 to $100 an hour around here. Machine shop time can run considerably higher particularly CNC machine time and most cue shops have at least some CNC equipment. However we will set shop time at $50 an hour.

Cost of materials is usually fairly negligible depending on how we buy our blanks. If we buy a quality blank or make it in our shop and allow shop time and materials the cost is roughly the same. The cost of materials is a minor portion of the cue's cost unless precious stones or very rare material is used. Inlay ivory, ebony, all these things aren't that expensive although ivory joints and buttcaps will cause a real jump in price simply due to cost. Other things add to cost because of the difficulty shaping them and the ease with which they break.

OK, we have the basics; time and material. But the cue maker is also selling a product. Like anyone selling a product he deserves a profit. Gross profit of 30% is modest but we will plug in that number. Then if the maker turns out a truly beautiful cue there is a little bit of a premium because his cue looks a little better than most. Finally there is name value. When you buy a "name" cue, it is perfectly reasonable to expect to pay something for that name. You pay for the name buying anything else. However that name does increase pride of ownership, is some guarantee of quality, and vastly affects resale value if you ever part with the cue.

Anyone selling a cue for less than materials plus fifty dollars an hour shop time plus thirty percent profit is undervaluing their cues. If they charge twice that for shop time and make 75% profit cutting out the middle people selling directly to the public they are not overcharging anyone if their cues have proven to have that market value. If they charge something for their name that they spent years building that is fair too.

Custom cues today are far cheaper than they were fifty years ago when compared to people's income. Buying quality cues is probably a good investment.

Hu

I think the cue market is going to take off i have really seen a big draw to the 15000.00-to 50000.00 range that bring up all the others along with it in the long run

 

[cornerstone]

The problem with this is that I can get a very good hitting cue such as a Schon for $400 (just one example). So, unless I want a piece of artwork, or really want my cue to be a custom, why would I pay $600 for something with the same quality hit, but an even plainer look. Also, a cue like a McDermott has such a strong warranty, that it carries a lot of value. Will I get the same warranty with a cuemaker? Probably some, but not all.

I understand why you say you need to be able to get that much for the cue, but it really is somewhat illogical for the consumer to pay it. People pay extra for custom work (with any product) based on the fact that the product will be better (Ex. Cannondale, Ellsworth mountain bike frames, custom fitted golf clubs, Bentley cars put together by hand, Omish furniture). The problem with a pool cue is that their is not that much that an be done to it to make it play better than a manufactured cue. This leaves you in a position where artwork type cues may be worth it, but a cue made to be played with will not, unless it is near the prices of a Wheat or Dominiak. We all know that these cues will not make us play better. A plain jane or sneaky is purely a playing cue, so how can I pay that much for it, when I can get so much more value out of a well manufactured cue or a cheaper custom maker.

I am not trying to place value on what you do, just saying that while your cues may be worth that based on your labor and costs, the market is not set up to accept that price.

It is true that some makers don't make anything under $1000, but they usually have a name that will allow the cue to retain value. Realistically, in my opinion, these cues are way overpriced also (I am referring to plain janes and sneakys, as the inlaid and decorative cues can be considered more as art than a playing cue, and are much harder to place value on), because I personally do not feel that they will make me play $600 better. A $400 cue and $600 worth of lessons will get me a lot further.

Again, I do not mean to suggest that custom cues should be cheap, just that it is a difficult sale on an expensive playing custom when comparing its value to the more reasonably priced customs and manufactured cues. The fact that many custom makers do it as a hobby and not a living makes it tough for the guy trying to make it a full time deal to charge what he needs to get to survive in the market.

you cant compare a custom cue with a production they are 2 totally diff animals!the time spent on hand selecting shaft wood can be as much time as it takes a production company to make 20 shafts!

 

[WheatCues]

Pics regarding my work

Since we were on the subject I thought i would let pics of my work and the quality of the woods speak for themselves !

I posted a new thread under main forum regarding pics of WheatCues

Please let me know what you think ?


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

 

[ShootingArts]

hmmmm

Mantis,

There is as much difference between a well made custom, even the cheaper ones, and a production cue as there is between a production and custom mountain bike frame. The differences between a well made custom and production are much the same for the bike frame and the cue. If you understand one you should understand the other.

Hu

 

[CocoboloCowboy]

Since we were on the subject I thought i would let pics of my work and the quality of the woods speak for themselves !

I posted a new thread under main forum regarding pics of WheatCues

Please let me know what you think ?


Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

 

[Dawgie]

Mr. Wheat, Will you be displaying any of your cues at VFBE?

 

[WheatCues]

Mr. Wheat, Will you be displaying any of your cues at VFBE?

No sir I will not be attending VF this year for two reasons....

1. I haven't perfected my logo yet "an engraved straw of wheat with 14k goldleaf over it"

I'm having problems with losing resolution when I scale it down for the CNC mach 3 program....

2. I'm too busy trying to catch up on orders with existing customers... and don't think that would be fair to them if I went on a trip at this present time !

I will be attending next year, since everyting I do is 100% made to order, I have decided to introduce a typical 60" playing cue line with avg. balance point, for those who aren't critical about the specifics but need a longer cue and don't want to wait for it to be built.... all of these cues will have a "silver" straw of wheat to distringuish the difference between custom fit and a production line of my personal taste and own specifications of a typical longer playing cue.....this way I will have something to display at the show next year instead of borrowing a customer's cue !

I believe this is a practical application and valid market within WheatCues, considering there are those of you that inquire frequently about what my personal taste in a playing cue's performance/hit and my own configurations and creativity are, and always asking if I have any finshed cues for sale.


Please call anytime ! I will be more than happy to answer any questions you may have... no matter how small or big !


- Sincerely, Eddie Wheat 321-631-1827

 

[mantis99]

Mantis,

There is as much difference between a well made custom, even the cheaper ones, and a production cue as there is between a production and custom mountain bike frame. The differences between a well made custom and production are much the same for the bike frame and the cue. If you understand one you should understand the other.

Hu

I don't claim to know all of the particulars between custom and production cues. I am just saying that in the end, a good production cue can play just as well as the custom cues I have hit. Because of this, I do think the average custom maker will have a hard time selling a sneaky pete for more than a good quality production. There are those out there that simply prefer custom work, but is that market enough for all the current makers? I have a $100 Dominiak custom cue. The workmanship is very nice, and the hit is good. He also has other cues with inlays and radial laminated shafts for $300-$500. That pricing should do well, but $600 for a sneaky (again, while it may be worth it with labor and such) is a hard sell. I personally will not pay over $1000 for a basic playing cue because of the name of the maker, but that is just me. If I believed I would hit that much better with it, then I would.

They may be 2 different animals, but in the end, do they really perform that differently or last any longer than the other? I would be happy to listen to why a custom sneaky is worth buying for $600 over a good production cue for $400, or even a cheaper custom for $400 as related to value to the consumer. Like I said, I do not claim to know all that goes into these cues.

 

[ShootingArts]

like the bike frame and the Bentley

Materials and fit make it worthwhile to some. All cues take a little time to settle down and for the player to get used to them. After that, if it is taken care of the custom should stay the same for a lifetime. That is rarely true of a production cue. If you like the feel of the custom, you should like it from now on. The feel of a production cue is far more likely to change over time.

I honestly thought a butt was a butt was a butt. I'm half Italian but I'm talking about cues here. However having my own shop I have a lot of decent shaft wood that still doesn't quite make the cut to sell to a customer. I have put well made very similar shafts on everything from pure crap three or four dollar cues, to fifteen dollar cues, seventy-five, one-fifty, on up, a wide range of cue butts. What I have found is that the butt makes far more difference than I expected and there is a difference between pretty nice production cues and top quality custom cues. Some "custom" cues are crap, hand made doesn't have to mean quality but production line does require some compromises that aren't required to build a custom. Only the player can decide how important it is to him.

A friend paid several thousand dollars for a mountain bike frame in 1995, I didn't think it was odd because none of my competition equipment was second best. I didn't put flash on my competition equipment and it isn't needed on a playing cue. My opinion is that some of the flash may be counterproductive and the quality of the build is the issue for me. That means the best possible material put together by skilled hands taking as much time as necessary to do it right, not just "good enough" to get on to the next one to keep a job.

Hu

I don't claim to know all of the particulars between custom and production cues. I am just saying that in the end, a good production cue can play just as well as the custom cues I have hit. Because of this, I do think the average custom maker will have a hard time selling a sneaky pete for more than a good quality production. There are those out there that simply prefer custom work, but is that market enough for all the current makers? I have a $100 Dominiak custom cue. The workmanship is very nice, and the hit is good. He also has other cues with inlays and radial laminated shafts for $300-$500. That pricing should do well, but $600 for a sneaky (again, while it may be worth it with labor and such) is a hard sell. I personally will not pay over $1000 for a basic playing cue because of the name of the maker, but that is just me. If I believed I would hit that much better with it, then I would.

They may be 2 different animals, but in the end, do they really perform that differently or last any longer than the other? I would be happy to listen to why a custom sneaky is worth buying for $600 over a good production cue for $400, or even a cheaper custom for $400 as related to value to the consumer. Like I said, I do not claim to know all that goes into these cues.

 

[WheatCues]

regarding points, inlays and the bells & whistles !

Hu,

In my personal opinion I believe the more cuts you make in the wood and the more pieces you replace the original wood with such as excessive inlays, points and windows... the less natural it feels !

In other words... I'm saying the wood's natural integrety has been compromised and the natural flow of the grain as been disturbed therefore you will not get the original natural feel that a particular wood posesses as the energy travels through the length of the cue, which makes 1-piece cues play so good in the first place and also why sneaky-petes are such a top seller !

Now, I'm referring to the feel "the report" you get after the contact stroke, not the playablity of the shaft or "hit" persay... that contributes to the overall feel of the entire cue.

what is your opinion regarding the compromise when adding bells and whistles or "flash" as you call it ?



- Eddie Wheat

 

[ridewiththewind]

I would be happy to listen to why a custom sneaky is worth buying for $600 over a good production cue for $400, or even a cheaper custom for $400 as related to value to the consumer. Like I said, I do not claim to know all that goes into these cues.

As many of us here did, I started out with production cues. While I did okay...the ones I had were never quite right. From there, I worked my way into custom cues...some were good, others not so much. I was still at the stage in my game where I really wasn't sure of what I liked yet in a cue. Got into a quality $1K+ cue, and started to get a clue...really liked the way that one felt and played. I was beginning to understand more and more what I liked and did not like in a cue, ie; joint type, pin type, balance point, shaft stiffness, etc.

I decided to start all over again, and went with a uber-fancy pete from a well known and respected cuemaker...and yes, I paid $600 for that cue. Why? Because the cuemaker makes his own full splice blanks, with top quality exotic woods, and naturally weighted his cues...no weight bolt. Also, fit and finish was superior...as was the shaftwood. I learned that I liked a flat-faced big-pinned phenolic wood/wood joint, with a stiff shaft. My game went through the roof with that cue!

I then had an opportunity to get into another 'pete' type cue...again, top quality exotics and shaftwood in a cuemaker built blank. My game jumped again...and I learned more...I like shorter ferrules, and a slightly harder layered tip. Again, fit and finish is superb...and the balance point in this one was as natural as I have encountered. Yeah...again, I paid roughly about $600.

I have another that is due to ship tomorrow. From the same cuemaker, but this one was actually built for me, which the other two were not...although, they felt like they were...LoL. This one has an even more exotic wood in it...not easily found, and i got to put some input into some other things as well...something that is not generally possible with a production cue. That is the major difference between a production and custom...being able to have a cue tailor-made for you, to everything that you like in a cue, with no compromise as to quality or materials.

It took me a while, and admittedly more money that it perhaps should have, but I feel fortunate that I have finally found my niche in cues....I like full splice, stiff hitting cues....works for me and my playing style.

That is not to say that someone cannot find a production cue that feels right for them...many, many have. I have just found that for me, as my game has refined, so has my taste in playing cues.

A huge part of the game is mental...and when you find a cue that instills confidence, that can be a huge part of the mental battle won. For me, if I can find that confidence in a $600 'pete' type cue, it's money well spent!

Lisa

 

[WheatCues]

regarding sneaky-pete cues made from scratch and also conversions

As many of us here did, I started out with production cues. While I did okay...the ones I had were never quite right. From there, I worked my way into custom cues...some were good, others not so much. I was still at the stage in my game where I really wasn't sure of what I liked yet in a cue. Got into a quality $1K+ cue, and started to get a clue...really liked the way that one felt and played. I was beginning to understand more and more what I liked and did not like in a cue, ie; joint type, pin type, balance point, shaft stiffness, etc.

I decided to start all over again, and went with a uber-fancy pete from a well known and respected cuemaker...and yes, I paid $600 for that cue. Why? Because the cuemaker makes his own full splice blanks, with top quality exotic woods, and naturally weighted his cues...no weight bolt. Also, fit and finish was superior...as was the shaftwood. I learned that I liked a flat-faced big-pinned phenolic wood/wood joint, with a stiff shaft. My game went through the roof with that cue!

I then had an opportunity to get into another 'pete' type cue...again, top quality exotics and shaftwood in a cuemaker built blank. My game jumped again...and I learned more...I like shorter ferrules, and a slightly harder layered tip. Again, fit and finish is superb...and the balance point in this one was as natural as I have encountered. Yeah...again, I paid roughly about $600.

I have another that is due to ship tomorrow. From the same cuemaker, but this one was actually built for me, which the other two were not...although, they felt like they were...LoL. This one has an even more exotic wood in it...not easily found, and i got to put some input into some other things as well...something that is not generally possible with a production cue. That is the major difference between a production and custom...being able to have a cue tailor-made for you, to everything that you like in a cue, with no compromise as to quality or materials.

It took me a while, and admittedly more money that it perhaps should have, but I feel fortunate that I have finally found my niche in cues....I like full splice, stiff hitting cues....works for me and my playing style.

That is not to say that someone cannot find a production cue that feels right for them...many, many have. I have just found that for me, as my game has refined, so has my taste in playing cues.

A huge part of the game is mental...and when you find a cue that instills confidence, that can be a huge part of the mental battle won. For me, if I can find that confidence in a $600 'pete' type cue, it's money well spent!

Lisa

Spending 600.00 for a fullsplice scratch built sneaky-pete is very reasonable !

Only becasue we arent talking about converting and existing sneaky-pete stock.... this is a huge difference and I want to make sure everyone understands why !

I'm going to use "CokerCues" as an example here... the sneaky pete's I have seen from him are conversions and I have seen quite a few... very nice work but are still conversions... not true custom built full splice sneaky-petes made completely from scratch...

And he sells them way below the 400.00 range.... this is completely justifiable, becasue if you think for a second that any cuemaker including me is going to build a 4 point cue and sell it for 400.00 your sadly mistaken.. there is way too much work involved, you are basically building a regular playing cue w/ points, it's still goes together the same way any other exotic hardwood cue would assemble.

And a full splice cue is another animal all together which entails even more precision time consuming work !

Now, I do not know if "CokerCues" offers a full-splice sneaky-pete's from scratch... if he does than a 600.00 price tag is warranted due to the extensive amount of work for even a basic cue !

I charge 350.00 base price for a custom cue with 2 sets of decorative rings... prices go up depending on certain exotic woods, bells and whistles etc. Points are 25.00 each including veneers and that can increase depending again on the type of wood you choose and how elaborate you go, this base price also includes sneaky-pete's built from scratch !

My sneaky-pete conversions are 275.00 base price the custom rings and certain collars priced accordingly....

So to sum it all up... if you paid 600.00 for a true sneaky-pete built from scratch then you got a good deal... if it's a conversion then.... well, you get the picture !





Sincerely, Eddie Wheat

 

[ShootingArts]

change

Eddie,

Everything we do to the butt changes the hit. A long splice changes the hit however that is the area most likely to warp in a butt and I like the insurance that a long splice can give done right. Also, the long splice creates the same hit as a house cue. The house cue feel is the natural feel for all of us that cut our teeth playing with house cues. Back in the day you had just as soon worn a sign that said "shark" as walk in a place with a hinged cue. Any other changes than a long splice get away from the feel of a house cue, some more than others. Better or worse is in the mind of the builder and owner, but different. As you say, the issue isn't actually how it affects the cue ball but the feedback it gives to the shooter. Seems our views here are much the same, maybe identical.

I don't like a real pingy cue, I don't like a dead one. Closer to pingy than dead, as always describing hit is illusive.

Lisa's taste in cues is much like mine. I like a simple long splice sneaky to play with. I may add a small thin joint collar and buttcap but I don't like much more than that for my cue. Think I am adding one more thing just as my trademark much like your wheat stem but only something tiny.

I have to admit I will make the occasional fancy cue when I have time. One, just so people know I can. Two, yes there is more profit per hour in them. Finally, I want as wide a market as I can have while holding my values.

Hu

PS By the way, anytime I say "sneaky" I am talking scratch built or from a quality blank, not a quickie conversion. At the simplest we could put a joint and pin in a house cue using the shaft and all. That certainly wouldn't justify the prices I think are fair for a nice sneaky. Truth is that change the ferule and tip on a nice house cue and add a joint and it would play better than many a higher priced cue though.

Hu,

In my personal opinion I believe the more cuts you make in the wood and the more pieces you replace the original wood with such as excessive inlays, points and windows... the less natural it feels !

In other words... I'm saying the wood's natural integrety has been compromised and the natural flow of the grain as been disturbed therefore you will not get the original natural feel that a particular wood posesses as the energy travels through the length of the cue, which makes 1-piece cues play so good in the first place and also why sneaky-petes are such a top seller !

Now, I'm referring to the feel "the report" you get after the contact stroke, not the playablity of the shaft or "hit" persay... that contributes to the overall feel of the entire cue.

what is your opinion regarding the compromise when adding bells and whistles or "flash" as you call it ?



- Eddie Wheat

 

[ridewiththewind]

Thanks Hu and Eddie for helping to explain in perhaps better terms than I.

Yes, I feel that I am getting a terrific playing cue for the money...very much so. All I know is this....when I switched over to a full/long splice cue, my game improved, and it became quite enjoyable for me, whether I performed well or not on any given night, because, let's face it, the cue can only do what the player tells it to. Crap in, crap out...if you know what I mean.

I love cues that 'talk' to me...with this type of cue, when quality crafted, and from the right materials...I know immediately, before the CB ever reaches the object ball, if I have made a good hit or not. The rest is entirely up to me.

Lisa