Clean it with "Shark Oil" after about every other time you play then burnish with leather. I do and my Predator looks as good as the day I bought it...
How to keep my shaft perfect?
- Thread starter jk36287
- Start date
That would be me.
Try using a magic eraser on something with a shine to it and tell me its not abrasive when the shine is gone.
Here's the secret formula...
1. magic eraser to completely take off the blueing, then wipe down with clean paper towel to get rid of most of the magic eraser gunk.
2. Bono Organic Hardwood Floor Cleaner sprayed on a clean paper towel, wipe down the shaft, then wipe down with clean paper towel to get a perfectly clean shaft. Let sit for at least 15 minutes.
3. Then, on your lathe only, use MicroMesh...quick, smooth passes with 4000, 6000, 8000, then polish with 12000. Use Slipstik if you want, but at this point it's not necessary.
Like others have said, throw away the scotch plaid polisher thingy. This may be overkill, but that's how I like it and I've never seen better.
1. magic eraser to completely take off the blueing, then wipe down with clean paper towel to get rid of most of the magic eraser gunk.
2. Bono Organic Hardwood Floor Cleaner sprayed on a clean paper towel, wipe down the shaft, then wipe down with clean paper towel to get a perfectly clean shaft. Let sit for at least 15 minutes.
3. Then, on your lathe only, use MicroMesh...quick, smooth passes with 4000, 6000, 8000, then polish with 12000. Use Slipstik if you want, but at this point it's not necessary.
Like others have said, throw away the scotch plaid polisher thingy. This may be overkill, but that's how I like it and I've never seen better.
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That would be me.
Try using a magic eraser on something with a shine to it and tell me its not abrasive when the shine is gone.
Well, when you're right, you're right.
The manufacturer of the substance from which Magic Eraser is made says "Only surfaces liable to scratching and varnished surfaces should not be cleaned with the “magician”.
It does remove the shine from the bottom few inches of a pool shaft if you use it down there (where the shaft maker applies a butt-like finish). I have experienced this myself. So it is abrasive to this degree.
But what I would say is this. To remove the blue with normal abrasives (sandpaper, steel wool, etc.), you are taking off a lot more wood than removing the blue with ME. It seems a lot more efficient in getting to the blue and taking it out without losing wood than any other product I've found.
I was unfortunate enough to use a magic eraser on a pair of shoes and learned the hard way.
My cue guy uses it on my ferrule and it makes it look great!
so on the shaft alone (predator z2) , is the non-glossy portion just bare wood or is it the same finish as the glossy bottom of the shaft, but just sanded/burnished to give a smooth feel? I would think that the shaft being bare wood vs finished wood will be two completley different situations you know?
beltsander?
Go to autozone and pick up the highest grit sandpaper you can find. It is used for buffing paint on cars or something. Watch the heat around the ferrule though because it get ruined. For your ferrule you can put whitening toothpaste on it to make it look as white as Ivory.
How are you doing Paul?
Thanks for the link to the Magic Mesh shaft conditioning pads. I've been using these for years. I keep one (the finest grit pad) in my pocket when i'm playing and I can rub my shaft lightly if it feels sticky from hand moisture or chalk build up. You can wash the pad and continue to use it over and over.
I agree with Paul these pads are some of the best shaft products i've used and i've tried many different products. I have a cue lathe at my home, but you don't have to have a lathe to get the benefit of these fine pads.
James
Cloth dampened with denature alcohol works good.
Another method for cleaning is to use a barely damp cloth with toothpaste. Once the toothpaste is removed use newspaper or a dollar bill to polish. Newspaper and dollar bills are approximately as abrasive as fine micromesh (old aviation trick used for polishing scratched wind screens).
Another method for cleaning is to use a barely damp cloth with toothpaste. Once the toothpaste is removed use newspaper or a dollar bill to polish. Newspaper and dollar bills are approximately as abrasive as fine micromesh (old aviation trick used for polishing scratched wind screens).
I happen to have a 314 shaft 2 years old that you would be hard pressed to find any chalk residue (blueing).
I prepaired the shaft by giving it 6 coats of carnuba car wax (Mothers), working the wax down into the wood grain. This makes the shaft sliky smooth, and you can decrease the friction by giving the shaft a couple of strokes on the talc cube. {Note: the talc goes on the shaft not on your hand} Wash you hands evey 3 games, and this single talcing of the cue will last for 4-5 hours.
As others have said, chalk carefuly, brushing the chalk onto the tip with the cue positioned towards the horizontal, so the chalk dust settles away from the shaft.
Then every 4-6 weeks (or as needed) wet a cleaning cloth with one of the orange cleaners, stroke the shaft a few times, then hit the shaft with a (not dripping but) wet cloth to remove the detergent, and dry immediately with a dry towel, burnishing the wood grains as you dry {work some heat into the shaft as you burnish}. Another coat of wax and you are back in business.
My 314 shaft remains perfectly straight after 2 years of this treatment. I would not recommend this for shafts that are not composed of multiple sections of wood laminated together. Use at your own risk.
I prepaired the shaft by giving it 6 coats of carnuba car wax (Mothers), working the wax down into the wood grain. This makes the shaft sliky smooth, and you can decrease the friction by giving the shaft a couple of strokes on the talc cube. {Note: the talc goes on the shaft not on your hand} Wash you hands evey 3 games, and this single talcing of the cue will last for 4-5 hours.
As others have said, chalk carefuly, brushing the chalk onto the tip with the cue positioned towards the horizontal, so the chalk dust settles away from the shaft.
Then every 4-6 weeks (or as needed) wet a cleaning cloth with one of the orange cleaners, stroke the shaft a few times, then hit the shaft with a (not dripping but) wet cloth to remove the detergent, and dry immediately with a dry towel, burnishing the wood grains as you dry {work some heat into the shaft as you burnish}. Another coat of wax and you are back in business.
My 314 shaft remains perfectly straight after 2 years of this treatment. I would not recommend this for shafts that are not composed of multiple sections of wood laminated together. Use at your own risk.
I 2nd that, maybe someone 2nd it before me lol. Only way to keep a shaft perfect is to not play with it. Even being very carful while playing can still cause the ferrule, shaft to get blued, dings and scratches. I spend good money on an OB2 so I know how you feel, but enjoy the damn thing and go play with it. Just an honest opinion. Have fun!
Chino
Sure, you can do it by hand, but eventually your shaft will look like an hourglass. If you use an abrasive, use a lathe for smooth, even results.
My girlfriend takes care of my shaft, and she does a GREAT job, but I always tell her NO ABRASIVES!!!!
I would suggest keeping a microfiber towel on you and wipe the shaft down after each time you play with it. Keep your hands clean, learn how to chalk right, and use the magic eraser for deep cleaning when needed. I also applu cue wax on my shafts and to me, this also helps a lot of the dirt off of it. But this is JMHO, many dislike wax, it is a love it or hate it thing. Butcher's bowling alley wax is good. Chem Pak wax is good as well. Stay away from anything like cue silk, I hate those products. To me, it makes the cue feel really sticky compare to it being smooth. lol
Good luck
Chino
Good luck
Chino
The best, time tested way...
Take 1/2 cup of vinegar, 1/4 cup of lemon juice, 1 cup of water, a pinch of salt, mix. Now dump it all down the drain, throw your pool cue in the back of your closet and go bowling. After two weeks, take out the pool cue, and hit yourself in the face with it. LOL
Take 1/2 cup of vinegar, 1/4 cup of lemon juice, 1 cup of water, a pinch of salt, mix. Now dump it all down the drain, throw your pool cue in the back of your closet and go bowling. After two weeks, take out the pool cue, and hit yourself in the face with it. LOL
There's a real fast easy way to find out...lay something flat and hard, like a ruler, on your shaft where you use the abrasive and look at it with a light behind it. You will see light in the low space where you sanded by hand. You won't even have to wait 78 days (or so), and you may even still be alive! The only way to avoid this is to not use an abrasive, just burnish with leather or something nonabrasive, or use a lathe.
Let's face it. Wood doesn't last forever. Wood just isn't a good fighter of time.
General wear and tear of wood is normal and should be expected. We should do all that we can to protect our wooden things, but the fact remains that wood will chip, ding, break, rot, bow, crack, etc.
The best thing to do is to enjoy your shafts and try to make them last. When you feel like it's time to get a new shaft, get one.
General wear and tear of wood is normal and should be expected. We should do all that we can to protect our wooden things, but the fact remains that wood will chip, ding, break, rot, bow, crack, etc.
The best thing to do is to enjoy your shafts and try to make them last. When you feel like it's time to get a new shaft, get one.