how to kick and make a hit on a ball
- Thread starter dsnake123
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Check out my articles on poolstudent.com, just search for my name (Scott Rohleder) or kicking, they are still archived on that site, I think in the instructional section. I spent a lot of time with pool and billiard systems, especially when I was playing 3 cushion a lot, and I put together a few articles on 1 and 2 rail kicking systems a few years ago for the guy that runs the site. Had more planned but I quit playing pool for a year, maybe I'll finish the others someday...
What's nice with the 1 rail systems is that it's all basic geometry and then understanding how speed and spin and table conditions affect the shot. I cover several different ways to arrive at the same correct geometric kick point, some people will find certain methods easier for them than others.
Scott
What's nice with the 1 rail systems is that it's all basic geometry and then understanding how speed and spin and table conditions affect the shot. I cover several different ways to arrive at the same correct geometric kick point, some people will find certain methods easier for them than others.
Scott
Do a search on the forum there are many pages on here with much info.........but without going into detail ill tell you the easiest thing
ANGLE IN -> EQUAL ANGLE OUT
now of course this changes with speed, if you smash the ball into the rail at a 45deg angle its not going to come off like that it will run short, if you hit it way soft it will roll somewhat long.......medium speed or the normal shooting speed is whats going to give you that angle in equals angle out.
Thats the easiest system to use
There are also:
Spot on the wall tricks
Mirror Method
Double distance method (basically the same as mirror method)
Tangent System described in Ray Martins 99 critical shots
matter of fact go pick up a copy of Rays book its a good one and easy to understand. Good book for a learning player. It deals with alot of straight pool type shots and patterns as that was Rays forte.
There are many others but for what its worth its not a very thick book but packed with great stuff, all in all i'd say its one of the best books to have in your pool library.
best wishes,
Grey Ghost
ANGLE IN -> EQUAL ANGLE OUT
now of course this changes with speed, if you smash the ball into the rail at a 45deg angle its not going to come off like that it will run short, if you hit it way soft it will roll somewhat long.......medium speed or the normal shooting speed is whats going to give you that angle in equals angle out.
Thats the easiest system to use
There are also:
Spot on the wall tricks
Mirror Method
Double distance method (basically the same as mirror method)
Tangent System described in Ray Martins 99 critical shots
matter of fact go pick up a copy of Rays book its a good one and easy to understand. Good book for a learning player. It deals with alot of straight pool type shots and patterns as that was Rays forte.
There are many others but for what its worth its not a very thick book but packed with great stuff, all in all i'd say its one of the best books to have in your pool library.
best wishes,
Grey Ghost
scott
i cant beleive i have your articles bookmarked as favorites and you cant find your own stuff????
for the op heres the link to part 1
http://www.poolstudent.com/2009/09/09/one-rail-kicking-systems-1/
heres part 2
http://www.poolstudent.com/2009/09/09/one-rail-kicking-systems-1/
heres some more links to scotts 2 rail kicks and on that same page links to the sid system
http://www.poolstudent.com/2010/03/07/two-rail-kicking-systems-scott-rohleder/
they should all be valuable
only thing missing is the 3 rail diamond system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM2LjQrwO6g
EVERYONE SHOULD CHECK OUT THIS LINK........:thumbup:
and you should be on your way with a good foundation to kicking
In addition to Poolschool.com, you're about 5 miles from one of the best kicking instructors in the US. Little Joe. Contact him through pooliq.net. All the help you'll ever need right in the palm of your hands. If you don't want personal lessons he has a DVD specific to your question.
Jerry Briesaths new DVD has some excellent info with adjustments along with a ton of other great info.
Jerry Briesaths new DVD has some excellent info with adjustments along with a ton of other great info.
Kicking
I have learned and taught pretty much all of the systems out there for kicking. I find the easiest is the "Parallel shift".
Say the cue ball is in front of the side pocket and the object ball is in front of the corner pocket (same side of table). You can't see it so you have to kick.
1) Find the exact spot you want to hit on the object ball
2) Go from the center of that 'ghost ball' (target) and go directly across to the rail you will be kicking off of (perpendiculiar or if its easier - stay parallel to the short rail)
3) From the spot on the rail where you found in step 2, place and leave your tip there and pivot your cue until you are 1/2 way in between the cue ball and the object ball.
4) Once you have this spot this shows you the angle you need to hit the cue ball. Now you just slide your cue over parallel until you reach the cue ball. You should be aiming at the exact spot you need.
5) Shoot medium speed without any english.
I have learned and taught pretty much all of the systems out there for kicking. I find the easiest is the "Parallel shift".
Say the cue ball is in front of the side pocket and the object ball is in front of the corner pocket (same side of table). You can't see it so you have to kick.
1) Find the exact spot you want to hit on the object ball
2) Go from the center of that 'ghost ball' (target) and go directly across to the rail you will be kicking off of (perpendiculiar or if its easier - stay parallel to the short rail)
3) From the spot on the rail where you found in step 2, place and leave your tip there and pivot your cue until you are 1/2 way in between the cue ball and the object ball.
4) Once you have this spot this shows you the angle you need to hit the cue ball. Now you just slide your cue over parallel until you reach the cue ball. You should be aiming at the exact spot you need.
5) Shoot medium speed without any english.
It is a simple system and effective system, but care is needed when shifting to remain parallel.
Blackjack was kind enough to put a file together of some Great kicking info posted a long time ago by dead aim.
http://www.deadstrokeuniversity.com/Article_Index.html
Down load the file then study and practice the systems. You won't be sorry.
Woody
http://www.deadstrokeuniversity.com/Article_Index.html
Down load the file then study and practice the systems. You won't be sorry.
Woody
Kicking
The Parallel shift, I have seen many students adjust without staying parallel. But I teach them that if they have difficulty with that, to visualize the distance from the Cue Ball to the Parallel line (before shifting) and to remember that distance. Then after the shift see if they moved the same distance on the rail. With practice this can get easier and easier.
The Parallel shift, I have seen many students adjust without staying parallel. But I teach them that if they have difficulty with that, to visualize the distance from the Cue Ball to the Parallel line (before shifting) and to remember that distance. Then after the shift see if they moved the same distance on the rail. With practice this can get easier and easier.
the parrallel system is a good beginers kicking system
but go study dead aim and really learn how to kick
jmho
icbw
scott
i cant beleive i have your articles bookmarked as favorites and you cant find your own stuff????
for the op heres the link to part 1
http://www.poolstudent.com/2009/09/09/one-rail-kicking-systems-1/
heres part 2
http://www.poolstudent.com/2009/09/09/one-rail-kicking-systems-1/
heres some more links to scotts 2 rail kicks and on that same page links to the sid system
http://www.poolstudent.com/2010/03/07/two-rail-kicking-systems-scott-rohleder/
they should all be valuable
only thing missing is the 3 rail diamond system
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM2LjQrwO6g
EVERYONE SHOULD CHECK OUT THIS LINK........:thumbup:
and you should be on your way with a good foundation to kicking
Funny - I was on my phone at the time, trying to type a response and didn't feel like looking everything up, just now getting back to the laptop.
Thanks for providing the links for me... I'll finish the 3 rail system one of these days and see if John will post it for me on poolstudent.com. I think my treatise on it will be one of the most complete since it's a combination of everything I've learned from multiple sources and takes into account real-world differences in equipment as well as "poolifying" the system for those of us that originally learned it for 3 cushion.
Scott
JC
Coos Cues
I was quite disappointed with little Joe's kicking DVD as he made no mention nor instruction on what I consider to be the toughest kick and that costs me the most ball in hands. That's kicking off the long rail at a greater than 45 angle to hit a ball up table or near the head rail. This kick seems to be the most critical of speed and english of them all, and the hardest to judge, at least for me. Two and three rain hits are easier for me than this seemingly simple one rail shot. In fact I have turned the other direction to hit balls two rails to avoid yet another close miss.
lets put some things in perspective
for people who know nothing or alttle about kicking whats on joes tape is worth its weight in gold for that persons improvement
i hope you agree with this
if not im all ears
your specific question for kicking that wasnt covered
have you tried calling joe and asking him about it??
he has been very helpful on telephone consults to me for FREE
he wants people to learn
maybe you can give him the benefit of the doubt on this
im curious to your reply
AFTER you call joe
:smile:
Last edited:
JC
Coos Cues
I can be disappointed with the DVD without having to give any benefit of any doubt. I bought it and that's my feelings. It's not a question of a specific question but rather an entire recurring kick which wasn't covered. I will not call Joe as he is a professional instructor and to call him asking for free information is very moochy IMO. I own a business and would not do to others what I don't like done to me. I understand the concept is covered elsewhere in the world it's just that I know Joe is an expert and was disappointed he didn't talk about that kick as it comes up way more often than two and three railers combined.
I think instructional materials often don't go into a lot of details on 1 rail kicks since they are purely geometry based and easy to visualize with the angle in / angle out type approach. Obviously multi-rail kicks are also similar, just harder to visualize, therefore the large of numbers of systems out there to help estimate hit points.
The articles I did (which bbb referenced) show all of the ways I've ever seen to visualize or calculate 1 rail kicks, usually one or more of the methods will align better for the way an individual likes to visualize the shot.
When kicking off the long rail at large angles (> 45 degrees), there is a fair amount of slide that occurs and they are very sensitive to table conditions and speed. Running english doesn't affect it as much, but unintended english and speed are touchy.
Aside from the systems I use, I also spent a fair amount of time memorizing certain aim points from diamonds to diamonds for various common routes, and the differences between the aim points on the long rail to reach various points on the end rail (or on a line to the end rail) are very small compared to the resulting diamonds.
For instance, from the diamond closest to the long rail, hitting through 4.5 (half diamond above the side pocket) with running english and a soft - medium stroke hits the first diamond on the end rail. 2.5 goes to the middle. Then it gets much closer and very sensitive - 2.1 to the third diamond, 1.8 to the corner, and 1.5 to the first diamond on the opposite long rail. Small differences for larger swings at the other end, just missing by 1 tenth of a diamond (about an inch) makes a third of a diamond difference at the other end.
Scott
The articles I did (which bbb referenced) show all of the ways I've ever seen to visualize or calculate 1 rail kicks, usually one or more of the methods will align better for the way an individual likes to visualize the shot.
When kicking off the long rail at large angles (> 45 degrees), there is a fair amount of slide that occurs and they are very sensitive to table conditions and speed. Running english doesn't affect it as much, but unintended english and speed are touchy.
Aside from the systems I use, I also spent a fair amount of time memorizing certain aim points from diamonds to diamonds for various common routes, and the differences between the aim points on the long rail to reach various points on the end rail (or on a line to the end rail) are very small compared to the resulting diamonds.
For instance, from the diamond closest to the long rail, hitting through 4.5 (half diamond above the side pocket) with running english and a soft - medium stroke hits the first diamond on the end rail. 2.5 goes to the middle. Then it gets much closer and very sensitive - 2.1 to the third diamond, 1.8 to the corner, and 1.5 to the first diamond on the opposite long rail. Small differences for larger swings at the other end, just missing by 1 tenth of a diamond (about an inch) makes a third of a diamond difference at the other end.
Scott