How to repair a BAD wrap groove?

Poulos Cues

Poulos Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So...I'll show my @ss here :smile:

When I built my 1st cue, I gave it to my best friend as a gift. His "graduation" present if you will. I had been showing him the game for 3-4 years and meanwhile I was beginning to "hone" my cue-making skills. (Still am by the way!- always!!)
I see some of my earlier flaws and want to fix them...

Long story short, I have a slightly deeper groove right up against the handle. You see, I use a 3-wing cutter to cut my od's and wrap grooves. I leave about an 1/8" kerf at the prong and butt sleeve ends for clean up after the cue is finished.

This is what I did. I used a bit of water, just felt like the correct thing to do, and a UTILITY BLADE to "score" thru the finish with the lathe spinning. Then I used a flat edged UTILITY BLADE to follow the taper of the groove for cleaning up this 1/8" to make the square shoulder. I didn't do such a good job. It has "hour glassed". NO PICS. SORRY.

I have witnessed the use of Super Glue to smooth out "digs" in the handle. Is this a good way?

1) What would you "repair experts" do to fix this?

2) How do you complete the edges of your wrap grooves?

Thanks in advance!
~Chris
 
Last edited:
Super glue gel might work ok. Epoxy that gets very hard will work ok. I have seen bondo & it worked just fine. It's under the wrap & superficial, meaning it doesn't affect the structural integrity or playability of the cue. So use whatever fills the void & hardens enough to shape. Super glue gel would be the fastest way, but don't try to do it fast. When applying it that thick, you'll need to let it cure over several hours.
 
Thanks!

Probably apply it with a block against the wood so it forms nice and flat right? Then work it down??
Then single point?, square edge UTILITY BLADE?, or sand ? ~ to form?

~Chris
 
Last edited:
qbilder said:
Super glue gel might work ok. Epoxy that gets very hard will work ok. I have seen bondo & it worked just fine. It's under the wrap & superficial, meaning it doesn't affect the structural integrity or playability of the cue. So use whatever fills the void & hardens enough to shape. Super glue gel would be the fastest way, but don't try to do it fast. When applying it that thick, you'll need to let it cure over several hours.
Click to expand...

I use all these methods so I agree totally. Keep in mind that bondo is HEAVY so a slight build up is fine. I'd probably do a few thin layers of epoxy, giving it time to harden or else it will not work. Single point to cut.
 
I would use 5 minute epoxy..but many things will work..as many coats as it would take to build it up.
Let sit over night or a long day before clean up...
I do my wrap groove similar ....I cut the initial groove right after my final taper in 3 passes and clean up the ends with a special cutter I have ground myself ....5% cobalt bit is what I grind it from.....very sharp angle and point ...single point....to a needle like sharp.
It is sharp like a needle and cuts through the finish very clean...no lift and very sharp corner...then clean with a little sand paper and a single edge razor blade to final taper. Fitting what ever type of wrap material I will be using to ensure it level for the fit. Seal ends...install wrap...

Good luck..
 
Poulos Cues said:
So...I'll show my @ss here :smile:

When I built my 1st cue, I gave it to my best friend as a gift. His "graduation" present if you will. I had been showing him the game for 3-4 years and meanwhile I was beginning to "hone" my cue-making skills. (Still am by the way!- always!!)
I see some of my earlier flaws and want to fix them...

Long story short, I have a slightly deeper groove right up against the handle. You see, I use a 3-wing cutter to cut my od's and wrap grooves. I leave about an 1/8" kerf at the prong and butt sleeve ends for clean up after the cue is finished.

This is what I did. I used a bit of water, just felt like the correct thing to do, and a UTILITY BLADE to "score" thru the finish with the lathe spinning. Then I used a flat edged UTILITY BLADE to follow the taper of the groove for cleaning up this 1/8" to make the square shoulder. I didn't do such a good job. It has "hour glassed". NO PICS. SORRY.

I have witnessed the use of Super Glue to smooth out "digs" in the handle. Is this a good way?

1) What would you "repair experts" do to fix this?

2) How do you complete the edges of your wrap grooves?

Thanks in advance!
~Chris
Click to expand...
I've used super glue and epoxy. I like epoxy best bc it doesn't dry too fast
 
I basically Do the same as others mentioned, and use epoxy or CA, depends on how deep It Is, and if the entire wrap bed needs leveling or just the edges where someone came back, and cut an inch or so out on each end deeper the the rest of the bed.


Wonder what Others charge to do this? I've struggled with pricing this job, and Not how sure what price is reasonable. Sometimes there's more work then other times, like when there's considerable run out in middle of the cue, and you have quite a bit more time involved in just trying to chuck it up and get It indicated close enough to clean the channel up, and square the edges. It's hard for Me to come up with a set price, because each one can be It's own beast, and some go much quicker and easier then others do.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
I would use 5 minute epoxy..but many things will work..as many coats as it would take to build it up.
Let sit over night or a long day before clean up...
Click to expand...

Dave, HOW would you "clean it up?".

Being epoxy-

Would you sand it?
Or would you "turn it" with your sharp single point tool?

PS. To everyone~ thanks!

PSS. And the deeper groove is in then HANDLE, right up against the PRONG... I think the viewers have gathered that already? Just proof reading my orig post;)

~Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
Dave, HOW would you "clean it up?".

Being epoxy-

Would you sand it?
Or would you "turn it" with your sharp single point tool?

PS. To everyone~ thanks!

PSS. And the deeper groove is in then HANDLE, right up against the PRONG... I think the viewers have gathered that already? Just proof reading my orig post;)

~Chris
Click to expand...

I always single point with a newly sharpened cobalt cutting tool. Turn out the rough spots and then you can blend by sanding.
 
Last edited:
Poulos Cues said:
Dave, HOW would you "clean it up?".

Being epoxy-

Would you sand it?
Or would you "turn it" with your sharp single point tool?

PS. To everyone~ thanks!

PSS. And the deeper groove is in then HANDLE, right up against the PRONG... I think the viewers have gathered that already? Just proof reading my orig post;)

~Chris
Click to expand...

Sandpaper and a razor blade............after a single point to level it out.
 
Michael Webb=


Are you saying to just fix by using a leather wrap?

Will it come to the edges flush?
 
Last edited:
I had to do one this morning. Its hard to show in these pics because of the glare but it gives an idea. It also shows the cobalt tool that I am able to grind myself to give an extra sharp point so the finish does not lift. (This is a Muecci with no finish.)

pic 1.JPG

pic 2.JPG

pic 3.JPG
 
ratcues said:
I had to do one this morning. Its hard to show in these pics because of the glare but it gives an idea. It also shows the cobalt tool that I am able to grind myself to give an extra sharp point so the finish does not lift. (This is a Muecci with no finish.)

View attachment 86566

View attachment 86567

View attachment 86568
Click to expand...


Thanks Ryan! Great pics!!
My task is to build-up and then even out.

I also took notice that you chucked up on the handle vs. doing the work between centers?

~Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
Thanks Ryan! Great pics!!
My task is to build-up and then even out.

I also took notice that you chucked up on the handle vs. doing the work between centers?

~Chris
Click to expand...

I don't think I would ever consider doing any single point work on the handle between centers. Not many cues run dead nuts perfect over 30 inch plus the single point is almost sure to chatter. I always chuck up within an inch of the end of the handle that I'm working on and then reverse the cue to work on the other end.
By the way, Mike Webb's solution of building up with veneer is probably the best as when finished you once again have a solid wood handle.

Dick
 
Murray Tucker said:
Here is the one from the shit happens thread. How much veneer would it take to fix this?

IMG_1154.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks like it was the beginnings of a nice looking cue. There's one thing about those taper attachments - they don't work very well when not engaged. :grin:

Dick
 
Murray Tucker said:
Here is the one from the shit happens thread. How much veneer would it take to fix this?

IMG_1154.jpg
Click to expand...

OUCH, Handle mght be better because of the rings, I have used .035 veneer for build up, when finished looked very nice. I got one better but I haven't taken a picture of it yet, it's called don't answer the phone and move the indexing while cutting the Vee .
 
Poulos Cues said:
Thanks Ryan! Great pics!!
My task is to build-up and then even out.

I also took notice that you chucked up on the handle vs. doing the work between centers?

~Chris
Click to expand...

I personally get chatter when I have the cue between centers. I have this to be the most accurate, for me. I feel the closer you can hold the piece in relation to where you want to cut, is best.
 
Not a taper bar but a stupid computer. You would think the computer would be smart enough to know that I wanted to take a .025 cut and not a .25 cut for the wrap groove.

rhncue said:
Looks like it was the beginnings of a nice looking cue. There's one thing about those taper attachments - they don't work very well when not engaged. :grin:

Dick
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top