How to repair rail end inserts for castings GC3

islandracer

islandracer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'll be tearing down my GC3 in a week or two to fix a popped seam. I think I have that part covered. I need help on what do about the inserts in the end of the rails. last time I assembled, two of them were out. I would glued them in but only one of them held. So I have a casting and a rail with about 1/4" space between it. Anybody has a good method to get these back in where they won't come out again and can take the tension of the bolt being tightened? The threads are intact but the wood is stripped...much thanks again in advance.

ri_gc.jpg

(borrowed from classicbilliards.net)
 
islandracer said:
I'll be tearing down my GC3 in a week or two to fix a popped seam. I think I have that part covered. I need help on what do about the inserts in the end of the rails. last time I assembled, two of them were out. I would glued them in but only one of them held. So I have a casting and a rail with about 1/4" space between it. Anybody has a good method to get these back in where they won't come out again and can take the tension of the bolt being tightened? The threads are intact but the wood is stripped...much thanks again in advance.

ri_gc.jpg

(borrowed from classicbilliards.net)
Click to expand...

Use epoxy glue next time, make sure the bolts are not to long, and don't tighten them so tight next time...they only have to be snug tight to do their job....LOL
 
if you file a flat spot on one side it works like a keyway to lock it in and use slow set up epoxy of a good brand will soak into the wood for a bond. then like above check length of bolt and don't over tighten your bolt. Rail bolts keep the rail from moving casting bolts hold on the decorations so to speak.

Don't use an impact drill to assemble the table simple hand tools are all that are needed.


Craig
 
Much thanks guys, the wood glue wasn't too sharp of an idea I guess. The epoxy sounds good, I just wasn't sure what would have held metal to wood. Will flatten that one side, pretty good idea. Got some time off from work next week - here we go again! I wish I could afford to fly somebody in for this...

On a separate note - the Brunswick instructions says to assemble the rails on the ground, which I did, making sure the corners were at 90 degrees and the side rails were straight. When I lifted this all as one piece and put it on the table I still had to tweak it as I'm sure during lifting and flipping it upside down and then lowering onto the table, all those joints were tweaked off and I had to straighten again before I tightened the rail bots. Is there a better method to do this? Sounds kind of odd to assemble and lift as those really fragile casting bolts are the only things that hold the rails together.
 
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At the bottom of the stripped out hole make the hole bigger in diameter so when you use the epoxy it will create a knob at the end of the threads in the wood that can't pull out. Just 1/16 to and 1/8th of an inch is enough. you can do this by just hogging it out with a drill bit at the bottom a bit.
 
islandracer said:
On a separate note - the Brunswick instructions says to assemble the rails on the ground, which I did, making sure the corners were at 90 degrees and the side rails were straight. When I lifted this all as one piece and put it on the table I still had to tweak it as I'm sure during lifting and flipping it upside down and then lowering onto the table, all those joints were tweaked off and I had to straighten again before I tightened the rail bots. Is there a better method to do this? Sounds kind of odd to assemble and lift as those really fragile casting bolts are the only things that hold the rails together.
Click to expand...

It's easier to assemble them upside down on the floor like that but you know how flaky and fragile the inserts in the wood that hold the castings are already so why risk it? Just assemble the rails and castings up on the slate. It takes a bit more time but you can really align things better this way. There's plenty of room to tighten the bolts on the pocket castings through the pocket holes with a short 9/16 box wrench as you push things into alignment.

Also I haven't followed your entire project but if you haven't already done so, acquire some GC4 pockets (not copies, get Brunswick). It's a huge upgrade. Each pocket will hold 8 balls and the rubber doesn't burn off onto your shaft when bridging on them. You have to cut a little wood away on the side pocket area below the slate on the frame and trim the rubber in that area to make them fit nicely but not a lot. These pockets fit so much better than the original GC3 ones it's amazing. How much you ask? About $150 but so worth it!!
 
metmot said:
It's easier to assemble them upside down on the floor like that but you know how flaky and fragile the inserts in the wood that hold the castings are already so why risk it? Just assemble the rails and castings up on the slate. It takes a bit more time but you can really align things better this way. There's plenty of room to tighten the bolts on the pocket castings through the pocket holes with a short 9/16 box wrench as you push things into alignment.

Also I haven't followed your entire project but if you haven't already done so, acquire some GC4 pockets (not copies, get Brunswick). It's a huge upgrade. Each pocket will hold 8 balls and the rubber doesn't burn off onto your shaft when bridging on them. You have to cut a little wood away on the side pocket area below the slate on the frame and trim the rubber in that area to make them fit nicely but not a lot. These pockets fit so much better than the original GC3 ones it's amazing. How much you ask? About $150 but so worth it!!
Click to expand...

I was thinking assembling on the table might be smarter with the fragile inserts, will probably try it this way next time.

As for the GC4 pockets, if I have a ball return already set up, no need for this upgrade?
 
Hi table mechanics!

I have one (maybe 2) RAIL bolts, where the bolt is loose because the metal insert is loose (similar to the first picture in this thread)

I feel like I need to tighten this bolt pretty tight to keep the rail tight.

How do I fix this??

Do I use epoxy, or do I find a thicker insert that will stay tight in the wood hole? or ??

(I feel like perhaps my table installer over tightened the bolt with his impact driver?, and pulled the insert out of the wood, now the insert wont stay in)

The metal insert is so loose now, it basically falls out of the hole with gravity!
 
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