How would you level this Gold Crown???

Donny Wessels

Donny Wessels

New member
Silver Member
This is a Gold Crown 4 that was purchased dis-assembled. It came from a pool hall. Two slates were marked table 10 adn the third marked table 11.

IMG_2625.jpg




what would you do in this situation?
 
Did it Get wet??? It sure looks like it. I have seen mdf frames swell just like that.

John
 
Slate Billiards said:
I would replace the wood backer on the mismatched piece. The backer on the right appears to be higer than the other.
Click to expand...

I considered replacing all the slate liners, I didn't think of doing just one. But I imagine it might be hard to get a perfect match without a planer.
 
I would have to agree as I've ran into the same thing many times in the past, just make sure the shims are the ones I showed you to get from Home depot Donny, they're long and that makes them perfect.

Glen
 
Slates are from 2 or 3 different tables you can tell from the staple marks, backer boards and thickness. I assume it came from las Vegas I have done 6-10 tables from that area all have had mismatched slates. Just shim it, glue it and Bondo it and it should be fine. Maybe a touch of glue on the shims so the d'ont back out if you tried to use 1 shim short with a quick taper instead of long and thin so you get more bite on it when you screw down the slate.

Brings back memories of the table I did in Monteray.

Craig
 
n10spool said:
Slates are from 2 or 3 different tables you can tell from the staple marks, backer boards and thickness. I assume it came from las Vegas I have done 6-10 tables from that area all have had mismatched slates. Just shim it, glue it and Bondo it and it should be fine. Maybe a touch of glue on the shims so the d'ont back out if you tried to use 1 shim short with a quick taper instead of long and thin so you get more bite on it when you screw down the slate.

Brings back memories of the table I did in Monteray.

Craig
Click to expand...

nice guess, it was from Vegas.
 
? when you sit on the end slate now with your level reading, does the bubble move after you put on that iron? how much before the iron?
 
OTLB said:
? when you sit on the end slate now with your level reading, does the bubble move after you put on that iron? how much before the iron?
Click to expand...

I didn't sit on the table. I can say that I had a sturdy foundation to level my slates. Also, Brunswick rectifies this problem with the GC5.
 
yeap Brunswick can't make up their mind on what to do because they don't know how.

Nice frames on 1 + 2 and even early 3's then, lets save money and shorten the timber, then oh wait we messed up lets try something else. Even those angle blocks aren't even glued tight, as in your pic. Its too bad, from the best to now second place

Actually some inside corner bracket hangers might work as well or even better
 
Last edited:
Looks like a piece of brazilian, the lighter colored one, and a piece of Italian. I know bruns. Switched to Brazilian years ago. So, I would guess the darker one may be older or the lighter one is a replacement.
 
You can make all of the slates match by finding someone in your area with a 36" wide wide-belt sander. Run the thicker slates through the wide-belt, slate side down, sanding the wood backer until it is the same size as the smaller one and then run all 3 pieces to make them exactly the same. I do this every time I install new wooden backers on a set of slates, works fantastic. A 36" wide-belt sander is a fairly common tool in professional wood shops and a lot of them will rent time. If you are lucky enough to find a couple in your area go with the one that has a Timesaver or SCMI unit.
 
Ben at Muellers said:
You can make all of the slates match by finding someone in your area with a 36" wide wide-belt sander. Run the thicker slates through the wide-belt, slate side down, sanding the wood backer until it is the same size as the smaller one and then run all 3 pieces to make them exactly the same. I do this every time I install new wooden backers on a set of slates, works fantastic. A 36" wide-belt sander is a fairly common tool in professional wood shops and a lot of them will rent time. If you are lucky enough to find a couple in your area go with the one that has a Timesaver or SCMI unit.
Click to expand...

That's a good tip, that's how we use to do our wood backed slates to match them up perfectly back in the 80's when I was building home style tables, but...if you take off one of the finished surface sides of MDF, what remains will crumble without to much effort when using shims. MDF, like particle board has no core strength, unlike real wood:wink:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top