Hsunami vs Carbon Fiber
- Thread starter JacobyToby
- Start date
Higher deflection but a more solid hit/feel.
Of course hit/feel is completely subjective and I've always preferred wood over not wood, so ymmv...
If you use the search function, I'm sure you'll find several threads that might give you more insight.
It’s not a world of difference that will up your ball making by 4 balls instantly, if ever
i had the first generation hsunami
more deflection than the revo
better feel
revo had better energy transfer as i recall (dont remember for sure)
would sell the hsunami for the right price....PM me if interested
Richard Hsu can make a Hsunami in any joint pin you like.
I’m aware. He said he’s willing to sell his so I was inquiring as to what pin he had. Richard is backlogged quite a bit.
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Superior Cues has a few Cory Barnhart radial joint roasted maple shafts for sale. I learned after chatting with Martin that’s roasted maple is another term used for a Kielwood shaft.
There’s a FS thread with photos of several roasted maple shafts weighing 3.8 ozs 12.85mm, 29.5” and a short white ferrule.
$350 (Zelle) or $361 (G&S PayPal) includes shipping.
I might get one of the Barnhart shafts because the specs are the very same as one of the original shafts.for my TS cue. I tried CF (2 brands) and didn’t care for the hit sound or feel because I use.a closed bridge sans any glove. I prefer the feel of wood in my pool bridge hand.
There’s a FS thread with photos of several roasted maple shafts weighing 3.8 ozs 12.85mm, 29.5” and a short white ferrule.
$350 (Zelle) or $361 (G&S PayPal) includes shipping.
I might get one of the Barnhart shafts because the specs are the very same as one of the original shafts.for my TS cue. I tried CF (2 brands) and didn’t care for the hit sound or feel because I use.a closed bridge sans any glove. I prefer the feel of wood in my pool bridge hand.
Personally , if you decide to go Keilwood- I think that a Hsunami 2.0 is a very good choice from a performance standpoint; and, if you decide that it was not for you (Kellwood), Hsunami has the best resale value IMO- get on his wait list ASAP if you decide to go that way- it is growing by the hour!
I have had Hsunami 1.0 and still have the 2.0. I have played with a Predator Revo, Cuetec Cynergy, and a Mezz Ignite. Although the Hsunami has more deflection, it is indeed a wood shaft and the feedback is much better than the Predator or Cynergy. The 2.0 is definitely stiffer than the 1.0 and provides a more pronounced sound and feedback. The Revo, to me, felt dead, the Cynergy better, but the same lack of return. The Ignite is much closer to a wood shaft in sound and return than any of the other carbon shafts I have tried.
-dj
-dj
JacobyToby
Registered
What kind of technology goes into Hsunami and other keilwood shafts? Do they lower end mass or is keilwood lightweight enough for low deflection?
Kielwood is basically maple that is put through a process of Torrefaction. This controlled heating process removes all of the moisture and sugar from the maple. This process has been used for musical instruments for a long time.
-dj
Actually removal of the moisture, sugar, etc. through kiln heat in a vacuum is subsequently followed up by
having to reintroduce moisture into the shaft. It is an interesting process and low deflection versions require
less mass in the initial 3 1/2- 4 inches of the shaft is what a reknown cue maker explained to me. Once the
shaft has gone through the torrification process, it is thereafter basically waterproof. You can wipe it down
with a wet towel because water will not penetrate the new molecular wood structure created by torrification.
It is a pretty interesting. I just ordered a RMS shaft with the identical specs as one of my cue’s maple shafts.
IMO, it should be the fairest test since both shafts are the same diameter and weight. However, the new RMS
has a medium tip & a short synthetic ferrule whereas my TS shaft has a 1” ivory ferrules & Kamui Black Clear tip.
That’s a big difference in the two cue shaft anatomies. I think it will be a big factor in how the the RMS shaft feels.
I’ll report back with the results of the two shafts. I’ve played with my Scruggs cue for almost 20 years so using a
RMS instead of the orig. maple shaft will be easy to evaluate. Like I wrote, the tip hardness difference and shorter
ferrule material I imagine will be the major reasons why the RMS feels different than my cue’s original maple shafts.
I realize how deflection is influenced by cue elevation so I’ll be careful to keep the comparison as fair as I’m capable.
@Bavafongoul
who is RMS?
who is RMS?
Apparently the use of the term Kielwood is copyrighted or something like that so cue makers substitute the acronym
for the actual process used when torrifying a maple shaft. The shaft is roasted in a vacuum kiln and the absence of oxygen is what prevents the shaft from actually catching fire and burning. So the correct term is roasted maple shafts and the finished product is called Kielwood but there really isn’t any such wood that grows naturally. It is man made. The cue maker that made the roasted maple shaft (RMS) I chose does not describe his RMS shafts as Kielwood but the shafts really are Kielwood.
for the actual process used when torrifying a maple shaft. The shaft is roasted in a vacuum kiln and the absence of oxygen is what prevents the shaft from actually catching fire and burning. So the correct term is roasted maple shafts and the finished product is called Kielwood but there really isn’t any such wood that grows naturally. It is man made. The cue maker that made the roasted maple shaft (RMS) I chose does not describe his RMS shafts as Kielwood but the shafts really are Kielwood.
If you are not willing to wait, you can buy a pre-own or off the shelf Hsunami, have it plugged and tapped for your pin.
Check your PM
Kielwood is trademarked by Prather.
Torrified maple are closed cell wood when it's done..It can still absorb moisture. My shaft sealer makes the grain rise and they become butter smooth when fine sanded.
They weigh about 10-15% less than regular kilned maple..Not big enough factor to significantly reduce the end mass ( 5 inch portion of the tip end ) in my opinion.
To make them really low end mass, they still need a hole 5 inches deep.
But, as they are with light ferrule, they should have significantly a lot less cue ball squirt than your old shaft with a 1" ivory ferrule.
One drawback about them is they are not as tough as regular kilned maple..So, I use phenolic plug for threads for 3/8 joint screws.
They also offer two kinds of torrified maple now. Regular honey colored kind and really dark.
Attachments
I just got my roasted maple shaft Saturday afternoon and used it Sunday for the first time.
Instead of just shooting balls with the new shaft, I played first with my original maple shaft
to get a feel to compare against the new shaft. Played 2 racks and then switched shafts.
There are several drills I use to practice and so I proceeded to do my drills using the new
shaft. After doing 4-5 drills for 30-45 mins., I then hit balls and there’s noticeable difference
playing different types of shots and it’s a good difference. But the feel is something I have
to get used to. The first thing is the short ferrule which has to influence the feel. The second
thing, which is the most important one, is the shaft uses a different tip. My cues have mostly
Kamui Black Clear Soft and this shaft has a medium tip. In combination, those two differences
would definitely change the feel of this shaft versus my original shaft that has the same specs.
Tomorrow I’ll just play with the roasted maple shaft and really see how it stacks up. So far, I’d
venture to say it seems more solid than my original shaft that also weighs 3.8 ozs. The original
shaft is 12.75 mm and the new RMS is 12.85mm. So the two shafts have virtually identical specs.
So I should be able to get a pretty fair comparison. I suspect I’ll have to change the tip if I want it
to feel more like my other cues but the small non-ivory ferrule is what it is so there’s nothing I can do.
Instead of just shooting balls with the new shaft, I played first with my original maple shaft
to get a feel to compare against the new shaft. Played 2 racks and then switched shafts.
There are several drills I use to practice and so I proceeded to do my drills using the new
shaft. After doing 4-5 drills for 30-45 mins., I then hit balls and there’s noticeable difference
playing different types of shots and it’s a good difference. But the feel is something I have
to get used to. The first thing is the short ferrule which has to influence the feel. The second
thing, which is the most important one, is the shaft uses a different tip. My cues have mostly
Kamui Black Clear Soft and this shaft has a medium tip. In combination, those two differences
would definitely change the feel of this shaft versus my original shaft that has the same specs.
Tomorrow I’ll just play with the roasted maple shaft and really see how it stacks up. So far, I’d
venture to say it seems more solid than my original shaft that also weighs 3.8 ozs. The original
shaft is 12.75 mm and the new RMS is 12.85mm. So the two shafts have virtually identical specs.
So I should be able to get a pretty fair comparison. I suspect I’ll have to change the tip if I want it
to feel more like my other cues but the small non-ivory ferrule is what it is so there’s nothing I can do.
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