I love my ob1

[RBLilly]

Not much deflection

It isn't much something like a 10th of an inch over 8 feet.

Who is to say that the platinum billiards site even did the test correctly?

It all steams back on who does the test and what they are testing for.

I still think the OB-1 is the best made and most uniform radial cue shaft you can buy.

 

[SPetty]

One key element though is that deflection will hopefully be consistent.

By the way, I know a fellow who has two Predator Z-2 shafts, which, he says, play differently... Put on the same butt, they play slightly differently.

Do you know if all OB-1 shafts show extreme consistency in the degree of squirt and so on?

Hi Flex,

I had the same experience with the Predator as your friend - they played differently from each other, with different amounts of squirt.

I now own two OB-1 shafts, and have played with others. I have not noticed a difference in the way the OB-1 shafts play from shaft to shaft. They are more consistent from shaft to shaft than the Predator.

Also, it is my experience that the OB-1 has LESS deflection/squirt than the Predator. I recall when I first got my OB-1 and was practicing with it. I had a table length shot that with my Predator, you just put a little right english on it and it would squirt just enough to make a perfect hit (and continue for good shape). I had done it a bunch of times before. I came up with the same shot with the OB-1 and was surprised that I missed the shot because the cue ball didn't squirt the tiny little bit that the Predator did!

 

[RBLilly]

Testing

Going back to the testing, if Platinum billiards were going to do the test correctly they would mark the shafts at say 10 degree increments and then do the test all the way around the shaft.

In other words they would hit the ball. Rotate the shaft 10 degrees and hit the ball again. Then they would do that same thing all the way around the shaft.

This would tell you which shaft is most uniform all the way around, and which shaft has less deflection while being uniform. If they did that I would predict that the OB-1 would be the winner hands down.

 

[PoolSharkAllen]

This would tell you which shaft is most uniform all the way around, and which shaft has less deflection while being uniform. If they did that I would predict that the OB-1 would be the winner hands down.

Have you considered becoming a OB-1 sales rep? With your knowledge and passion for OB-1s, I think you'd make an outstanding sales rep for them!

 

[Handsumm]

Incase you weren't aware, I have voiced heavy confusion in other related threads over what kind of shaft I should get as I look to replace my current one. After reading a truck load of hype about the OB-1, I contemplated making it my next purchase, but after reading a previous poster state that it was rated by Platinum Billiards as having more deflection than Predator shafts, I grew weary. Now here is my homeboy Yow, telling me not to jump with an OB-1, and again I am troubled.

I like full-cue jumping, and am rather good at it. There are a few tournaments in my area that do not allow jump cues, so I feel like I have an advantage over many people because I can still clear balls and be rather accurate with my Viking. This being said, why oh why, Mr. Yow, should I avoid jumping with an OB-1 shaft?

Furthermore, can someone please just buy me a 314-2 shaft and an OB-1 so I can try them both?!?!

I wouldn't use a shaft made for lower deflection for jumping. For that, you'll need a stiffer shaft (like your break cue). Also, with that layered maple ferrule, I bet it couldn't really stand up to too much jumping. The shaft is made to absorb vibration. Due to that aspect, it is not a very stiff hit, as is preferred for jumping.

 

[RBLilly]

Have you considered becoming a OB-1 sales rep? With your knowledge and passion for OB-1s, I think you'd make an outstanding sales rep for them!

Hey if they needed a sales rep I would gladly be one! LOL

I don't think they need it though, they are doing just fine without me.

However if they would send me to all the tournys I wanted to go to....................................................LOL

They are just great shafts, and they are the first high end shafts that I can say I fully agree with. I tried the others, and I think they are good products, but I think the OB-1 is the superior product.

 

[Flex]

I wouldn't use a shaft made for lower deflection for jumping. For that, you'll need a stiffer shaft (like your break cue). Also, with that layered maple ferrule, I bet it couldn't really stand up to too much jumping. The shaft is made to absorb vibration. Due to that aspect, it is not a very stiff hit, as is preferred for jumping.

Hmmm... About the stiff hit part and jumping. If you want to make a very simple jump cue, from a regular, not especially stiff shaft, it's really quite easy.

Just cut off the ferrule, and glue a phenolic tip on the shaft end with super glue gel. Then go down to the hardware store and buy a 5/8' dowel rod, or any rod for that matter whose diameter will push fit into the end of the shaft, and cut the dowel rod off at a point where the shaft plus dowel rod inserted into it is more than 40 inches long (to be BCA legal for length) and then start jumping balls with a dart stroke to your heart's content.

You'll be jumping them with ease. Want it to be a bit more powerful? Get a thicker dowel (to add more weight to the ensemble) and do the same thing. The power of this little jumper is directly dependant on the overall weight. A really stiff shaft is definitely not a necessity.

Flex

 

[Handsumm]

Hmmm... About the stiff hit part and jumping. If you want to make a very simple jump cue, from a regular, not especially stiff shaft, it's really quite easy.

Just cut off the ferrule, and glue a phenolic tip on the shaft end with super glue gel. Then go down to the hardware store and buy a 5/8' dowel rod, or any rod for that matter whose diameter will push fit into the end of the shaft, and cut the dowel rod off at a point where the shaft plus dowel rod inserted into it is more than 40 inches long (to be BCA legal for length) and then start jumping balls with a dart stroke to your heart's content.

You'll be jumping them with ease. Want it to be a bit more powerful? Get a thicker dowel (to add more weight to the ensemble) and do the same thing. The power of this little jumper is directly dependant on the overall weight. A really stiff shaft is definitely not a necessity.

Flex

OK, why would anyone want to do that to an ob-1 though? That's like taking the engine and wheels off of a Porsche to replace with engine and wheels of a tow truck.

 

[poolcuemaster]

Earl the pearl was using one this weekend in Greenville SC to play with and also to break with and finished second.--Leonard

 

[Flex]

OK, why would anyone want to do that to an ob-1 though? That's like taking the engine and wheels off of a Porsche to replace with engine and wheels of a tow truck.

I sure don't suggest anyone do that to an OB-1!! Trying to play with a phenolic tip instead of a regular one will work, I suppose, but it'd not be my choice.

I'd be interested to know why jumping with the OB-1 is not recommended. If anything, I'd think that powerful masses shots with a cue are harder on a shaft than jumping.

Is there some inherent weakness in the OB-1 ferrule and shaft that would make it unsuitable for full length cue jumps?

 

[poolcuemaster]

Earls shaft was turned down to about 12.75 with no taper it was that size all the way back to about three inches from the joint with a pressed elkmaster tip and he was breaking and playing with the same cue.--Leonard



He didn't break well against Jeff in the finals and it was like he backed down on the power.

 

[ericyow]

I'd be interested to know why jumping with the OB-1 is not recommended. If anything, I'd think that powerful masses shots with a cue are harder on a shaft than jumping.

Is there some inherent weakness in the OB-1 ferrule and shaft that would make it unsuitable for full length cue jumps?

There's no weakness. In my opinion, it's the flex of the shaft (which is SO good for so many reasons) that precludes it from being a viable jumper. I still insist on using my phenolic tip-ferruled lucasi jump/break for full cue jumps, and my lucasi jump cue for shorter jumps. I have a 2b4s case that I can house all three in, since the jump cue butt fits in the elongated pocket. A nice, tight arsenal if you ask me.

 

[ericyow]

And, for the record, I just got another one.

As your AZ appointed legal counsel, I'm going to have to advise you to purchase an OB-1.

Eric J. Yow!, Esquire

 

[Handsumm]

I sure don't suggest anyone do that to an OB-1!! Trying to play with a phenolic tip instead of a regular one will work, I suppose, but it'd not be my choice.

I'd be interested to know why jumping with the OB-1 is not recommended. If anything, I'd think that powerful masses shots with a cue are harder on a shaft than jumping.

Is there some inherent weakness in the OB-1 ferrule and shaft that would make it unsuitable for full length cue jumps?

YES! That's exactly what I am trying to say. The ferrule is not made for such a harsh impact. It is made to be LIGHT, therefore WEAK in construction. I have seen people snap their ferrules. They have very thin walls and a balsa wood tenon. Not exactly what I would want to be pounding into a hard sphere if you know what I mean.

 

[PKM]

Can't wait to see their cues when they come out.

May the force be with us (OB-1 users only)

 

[RBLilly]

More Info

Here is some more info on OB-1!

OB1 cues have designed a shaft that allows you to have less deflection, great feel and better over all ball control.

The OB1 shafts are made from six segments that are created from laminated maple and machined in a manner that removes the internal stress to help insure the shaft is straight and stable.

Due to the unique construction of the blank for the OB1, the shaft has radial uniformity allowing you to have consistent stiffness no matter how you rotate your shaft.

In addition to the consistent stiffness the OB1 shafts have a longer taper allowing you to have better ball control.

The great feel of the OB1 shaft is due to having a all wood ferrule and a high density vibration dampening foam in the core of the shaft and having the final 4 inches of the shaft being wood not hollow like most laminated shafts.

 

[RBLilly]

Can't wait to see their cues when they come out.

May the force be with us (OB-1 users only)

I should e mail Royce............that would make a great shirt!

OB-1 Shafts (on the front of the shirt)


May the force be with you! (on the back of the shirt!)

 

[BVal]

I should e mail Royce............that would make a great shirt!

OB-1 Shafts (on the front of the shirt)


May the force be with you! (on the back of the shirt!)

I think you already are a sales rep you just aren't getting paid. and I say if you really like a product - let as many people as you can know all about it. Great idea on the shirt.

BVal

 

[PoolSharkAllen]

I should e mail Royce............that would make a great shirt!

OB-1 Shafts (on the front of the shirt)


May the force be with you! (on the back of the shirt!)

While you're at it, you can ask Royce for a job as a sales rep. Tell him about all the postings you've made on how great the OB-1 shafts are.

 

[AuntyDan]

YES! That's exactly what I am trying to say. The ferrule is not made for such a harsh impact. It is made to be LIGHT, therefore WEAK in construction.

I have an OB-1 on my Capone and overall find it a nice improvement on the regular maple shafts (less deflection on long cut shots) and a better feel than the Predator shafts I've tried.

However the few times I've tried breaking with it I did not like the feel at all. Fortunately I have a seperate break cue. HTH, YMMV