I want to ask the experts...

Catahula

Catahula

I said "SIT!"
Silver Member
I am finally going to pull the trigger and buy a table. It will most likely be a 7 bar box (what I normally play on) or 8 footer although I can comfortably fit a 9 footer in the space I have.
1. The table will be used table (the most table for the money).
2. I accept that I will probably have it recovered immediately.
3. It will be a very easy move into my space (back up to low deck, through a sliding door and it's home).
The question I would like to pose to the mechanics out there is this?.what 5 (or 1 or 3 or 7) questions would you insure were answered to your satisfaction if you were the one to purchase a used table.
I have waited a long time to do this and would like to make as an intelligent decision as possible.
Thanks for any and all input.
Tommy
 
If you buy a bar box your okay to move in one piece. If a 3pc slate table or home table you will need to dissassemble or take the risk. You can call me at 714-379-8983 when your looking at the table, based on your description I can tell you what to look for in a used table. If your going to have the table recovered anyways, you should have the table moved professionally and you will probably get a discount on the recovery.
 
1. What brand is the table. For coin tables, #1 is Diamond, #2 is Valley, #3 is Dynamo and I wouldn't get anything else.

2. How old is the table. Ask this both in terms of age and wear. I've seen some 10-15 year old tables with VERY low "mileage". When looking at wear, don't just consider cloth and cosmetic parts. If you need to start off replacing and repairing hardware and things, you'll want to know it ahead of time.

3. How do the rails play (fast, dead, any loose spots, etc.). Consider if you're willing to invest in a new set of rubber/rails when you're negotiating the price.

4. Condition and color of the cloth. Either might require you to have the table recovered, but if both are to your liking, you could save a little coin. Of course if the rubber is not in good condition, you're going to have to replace the cloth anyway.

5. Ease of move. Any mechanic's price to move the table will probably go up based on stairs and mileage. Factor this in your budget as well. With more difficult moves (up stairs, long distance to load, etc.) the more chance you take on damage being done to the table. Coin tables are VERY heavy and bulky to move. Make sure it's someone you trust to move the table carefully.

Hopefully this information will help you out. I'm sure there's other things I'm not thinking of, but there are some very savvy mechanics on this board. I'm sure someone will pick it up. ;)

Good luck with your purchase! Hope you find a good one!
 
Catahula said:
I.what 5 (or 1 or 3 or 7) questions would you insure were answered to your satisfaction if you were the one to purchase a used table. Tommy
Click to expand...

"Assuming" you see and get a chance to knock a few racks before sealing the deal the table should speak for itself.
If it plays to your satisfaction it's probably fine. Make sure you get the keys.

The only really bad hidden problem you could have is cracked slate and you might not be able
to tell this until you remove the cloth. I'd suggest some agreement with the seller to cover this possibility.
 
all great advice....but....one more thing. if you move it, which can save money. i suggest you get 5-6 people that only think you like them and offer a 12 pack of beer, cause when your done they may never talk to you again..lol


everyone has covered all the points, i am just being a smartass.
 
7-footer, and "bar box", are not the same thing.

There was some discussion recently about funky bar box pockets, including the observation that some bar tables have side pockets that are tighter than the corners. Some bar tables also have over-sized pockets.

Cloth and cushions can be changed, but you are generally stuck with the pocket design, and it is a huge factor in how the table plays.

If your table is mainly for kids, the big buckets may be what you want. If it is for more skilled players, you probably want 4.5" corners and 5" sides. You may find these easier to find on a non-bar box table.
 
table

If you like the table and it plays good and you can get it for the correct price, go for it.You can always change anything you do not like. Even the pocket style, with a little work.If the table is not exactly what you want and you are going to have one of us work on it, keep in mind the cost of are labor and what the table is worth.
Thanks, Ron
 
Thanks guys...

Thanks for the input guys...and Reps to every one of you for the insights (including buying the beer). :)
Tommy
 
Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents for what it's worth as I was "given" a bar box table by a friend of a friend.
Be very careful how ypou pick up the table when you move it. As mentioned above, you'd better have a lot of help as the slate is one piece. If it has a ball return, then check out the ball return. Does it have all the pieces for the ball return and physically look at the ball return system. I removed the one I had on my bar table as the return system itself would have reuined my my new Pro set of balls as there was not lined and the balls would have been rolling on metal surface only. I also had to replace all of the presswood around the sides of the table with real wood as the presswood had swollen up due to high humidy and you don't want to have to replace the wood on the sides as it has to be cut and knotched at the correct angles. I also had to replace the entire bottom section (leg structure) and rebrace it for additional stability. So check out the legs also. As mentioned above, if you have to replace the cushions (which is a good probability) then you'll also have to replace the felt. I did all this myself but would strongly suggest a good table mechanic. On the flip side though. If you always play on these type of tables when you are out and about then it may be the table for you. In hindsight, I spent about $800 on getting mine back in shape ($225 for Olhausen lifetime cushions, $200 cloth, $70 for drop pockets, $230 for wood products, paint, sandpaper,leg levelers etc. to replace legs and bracing and refinish rails, $185 for new set of balls) I also did all of the work on the table myself which saved me moving and setup fees. I will say agin. Find a good table mechanic!!! I enjoyed doing it but I don't know that I would do it again. Now I know I could have used cheaper balls and cushions, but my point is, know what your looking at. There could be hidden costs. I myself now know that I could have picked up a great used Brunswick or Olhausen for the same cost off of craigslist. Good luck with the table. I'm not trying in any way to shy you away from a bar box table, just pointing out sometimes all is not what it seems.
 
8' Bar Box Valley or Dynamo

Tommy,

I don't know if KP has an 8' table available for you but, if he does and you can fit it in your room, I'd spring for the bigger table for a few extra $$$.

We are going with Championship Tournament Edition cloth this year which will hopefully be a good decision.....plays faster :) I know he can hook you up with this felt too!

Take good care,

Ken ;)
 
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