I Wish Tip Makers Would...

. I'm going to have to hunt a bit for some synthetic ads, hard to find.
See August 2024 thread
and a 2011 post and video:

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I considered giving a Willard tip tool with every premium tip install. Those things are the cuesmith's friend. Anybody trying to keep a perfect nickel or dime tip can grind one off in a month or less!

I still have a couple in my case to show people what they are really playing with. Most people's tips are flatter than they think. At one time I originally shaped mine to a dime radius. After a little play it shaped itself to a little flatter than a nickel, maybe a quarter. It stabilizes there and now I leave my tips alone other than lightly breaking the glaze when I start play.

I use an Elkmaster, dudded or not. After a quality tip being selected it lasts me for years. I am very easy on tips. Automotive clutches and brakes too, I wonder if there is a connecti
The Willard tip machine paired with the last 4 ever tip tool with both the nickel and dime shaper is all this guy will ever need.

For what it's worth, I just install the 14mm tip on there, shape it up, shave as needed as it compresses and I just don't worry about it at all. Tall, short, I'm agnostic. I don't have the luxury in my life to worry this much about a pool cue tip, but I'm very envious of those that do.

Cheers,

Neil
 
The Willard tip machine paired with the last 4 ever tip tool with both the nickel and dime shaper is all this guy will ever need.
Nope. Need the quarter shaper, too, with a scuffer on back:

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AZBilliards uploaded these images of 1740 to 1760 kb. I thought the maximum was 1.2MB.
 
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They are a bit tall. I play with Moori Soft and after a day or two of play they have compressed some and might even need a little side trim. After the tune up everything is perfect. It's a little like a new baseball glove. Looks great but needs some mattress and play to work it's best. Mind you I do my own tips but for those who can't/don't this might be a problem.

Only those who play with the hard stuff or don't mind a little sidewall overlap can get away with not retrimming the sides.
Yep, I feel the exact same way.

Ken
 
See August 2024 thread
and a 2011 post and video:

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Good post, I wonder how these work, as I've only played leather tips. Now I remember the brand I was thinking about for a synthetic tip. Believe it was from the 90s, and it was called Future tip. I can only imagine that it didn't last long, but would be interesting to see.
 
A few decades ago, I read some advertisements on synthetic tips. I forget the brand names, but have never tried them. To me, leather is still the best option, because you can have it a bit soft if that's your preference, or you can press it good, and have it very hard. Also, if it glazes and gets a bit slick, you can rough it up a bit without losing the whole grain. I'm going to have to hunt a bit for some synthetic ads, hard to find.

All this of course, does not include the phenolic tips, which a bunch of us use as break tips.

All the best,
WW
Thanks. They tout this bulletproof playing tip as one you never need replace and all that other hype on new product lines. 30 bucks apiece. I'm hoping a member that has one will comment on them. I know their break tips got good reviews.
I'm need info on the hard playing tip.
Their website looks good.
I've always used single layer tips, the harder the better. Built my game around that.
 
... Now I remember the brand I was thinking about for a synthetic tip. Believe it was from the 90s, and it was called Future tip. I can only imagine that it didn't last long, but would be interesting to see.
I was told by the company that sold the Future Tip that they were made from polyurethane. The ones I used were real hard -- really "clicked" when hitting the cue ball. I kind of liked them, but I never found anyone else who did.
 
Screw on tips have a bad rep with pool players but it seems many snooker players use them. If a tip isn't performing to suit them they sometimes change tips midmatch.

Hu
I've never seen or heard of any decent player using screw-on tips. Certainly not any professional, anyway, to my knowledge.
 
@lfigueroa - I had put a new tip on a shaft last week and was not happy with the way it was hitting. I've always left them full height, but I was inspired by this thread to cut a few layers off last night and reshape it. I overdid it and cut off way more than I meant to, but even so it played so much better that I'm going to incorporate this as standard practice for my personal tips going forward. Thanks!
 
Also it will last longer. If you cut half of it off, it will only last half as long.
Whacked a medium soft Moori on this evening. Hit a few hundred balls to harden it up a bit. Then shaped it down. That extra height is wiggle room. Making them smaller is redundant unless a tip can be perfect right off the bat.
 
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@lfigueroa - I had put a new tip on a shaft last week and was not happy with the way it was hitting. I've always left them full height, but I was inspired by this thread to cut a few layers off last night and reshape it. I overdid it and cut off way more than I meant to, but even so it played so much better that I'm going to incorporate this as standard practice for my personal tips going forward. Thanks!

It’s really easy to get too agressive cutting off “a couple” of layers.

I’ve gotten better at it over the years but still have to be careful. Plus, some tips will compress more or come with fewer layers than others. Easy to make a mistake.

Lou Figueroa
 
Never use a heavy duty blade to shape a tip. They are much duller than standard blades. Premium blades, cobalt, bi-metal, any premium blade I have tried, are sharper than standard blades. I hold the blades in a fixed nonretractable handle and make sure it is tight. If not, snapping an old blade off short makes a fine shim. I use a new premium blade to shape three tips, marking it before each install. Then I throw them in the general shop use pile. Premium blades could be used longer but blades are cheap and how long is too long?

I wrote an article for a cue builder's magazine about blades. Unfortunately neither the article or the magazine survived!

Hu

Thanks for this tip (pun intended). I always used really cheap utility blades and never even knew better ones existed. I purchased some bi-metal premium blades, that were still less than a dollar each, and they work 10x better and faster than the regular steel blades.
 
i got lots of different tips size, kind, and shape on my shafts and after two minutes they all see right.

lately have been hitting a 14mm tip with a tall soft tip. i find with this size my pocketing is better on long shots. mental likely.

one of the best old time players i knew and played with used a 25plus oz cue with a 15mm shaft with the butt end much wider at the handle part.
he was the first that regularly ran out in rotation i ever met. and the best head on breaker.
 
i got lots of different tips size, kind, and shape on my shafts and after two minutes they all see right.

lately have been hitting a 14mm tip with a tall soft tip. i find with this size my pocketing is better on long shots. mental likely.

one of the best old time players i knew and played with used a 25plus oz cue with a 15mm shaft with the butt end much wider at the handle part.
he was the first that regularly ran out in rotation i ever met. and the best head on breaker.

I have shafts 10 to 14mm and agree with you that they all play fine (at least at my skill level. I have an ancient shaft from a 115 year old Brunswick one piece that I kept at 14mm and put a layered tip in it. I love how it feels whatever that means.
 
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