If you don't understand CTE...

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Seeing the two lines fixes the cue ball with a left edge and a right edge. Therefore you have a center cue ball based on the 2 edges. Move straight in to 1/2 tip alignment either to the right or to the left of the identified center. Pivot to center.

This will be greatly refined with my update info. But for now.....that is essentially what DVD1 and 2 conveyed.

Stan Shuffett

Is one of the edges the "center" of the CB and the other the actual edge (Edge to A/B/C)? So we are really looking at the center of 1/2 a cue ball? Am I on the right track? Then you pivot to the center of the whole CB?
 
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Maybe these YT videos (3 parts) will help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht3ypwuxLw8

If you still have questions this video should help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAKAP8iR3Lw

John

Thanks, One Pocket John. I just finished watching the Perception (and Part 2 and 3). They were very helpful: Stan says to start at CCB and COB and do a slight rotation until both lines are coming into view. I believe I'm getting to a point of seeing those lines. Here's a transcription from that video that I found very helpful:

"I'm going to line up on this first line of balls that's a cut to the bottom left corner. I'm going to line up center to center with my strongest visual alignment. I'm going to start rotating to the left slightly until the left edge of the CB - the innermost left edge of the CB - is at A and then I have center to edge. And so there we are." - CTE Perception Part 2 - Stan Shuffett.

And thanks Stan for explaining it in this level of detail. Your CTE methodology fascinates me.
 
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Thanks. I just finished watching the Perception (and Part 2 and 3). They were very helpful: Stan says to start at CCB and COB and do a slight rotation until both lines are coming into view. I believe I'm getting to a point of seeing those lines.

Happy to read that. There is only one place you can stand that will allow seeing both lines. Qball edge to A,B or C (A and C have no center Qball to the edge of OB when used for a 45* cut) and Qball center to OB edge. When you do rotate your body and see both lines try moving off line and then back on line. You will see what I'm talking about.

If you have time you may want to watch all of Stan's YT videos on CTE there are quite a few.

Hang in there, I am a student of CTE also. :)

John
 
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Happy to read that. There is only one place you can stand that will allow seeing both lines. Qball edge to A,B or C (A and C have no center Qball to the edge of OB when used for a 45* cut) and Qball center to OB edge. When you do rotate your body and see both lines try moving off line and then back on line. You will see what I'm talking about.

If you have time you may want to watch all of Stan's YT videos on CTE there are quite a few.

Hang in there, I am a student of CTE also. :)

John

I have Stan's DVD2-Final Chapter and have just recently downloaded all of his YT Videos to watch later. They are fascinating.

Note the edit to my previous post too. Thanks again.
 
And the Bronze Member suddenly emerges, lol.

Lou Figueroa
here comes the
"long time lurker" claim
 
I have Stan's DVD2-Final Chapter and have just recently downloaded all of his YT Videos to watch later. They are fascinating.
Note the edit to my previous post too. Thanks again.
I am a very new user of this CTE aiming. Am I missing out on anything by not buying the DVD? (The You tubes are good.)
I think one of the most exciting aspects of it is that the principles work the same on any size pool table!
I have a Valley bar table here at home with customized very tight pockets. Using his "angles" of 15,30,45,60... the balls go in nice without even aiming at the pocket.
At the local pool room, the same thing works on the big 9 footer.
But......when going to different size tables, the SPEED and power of the hit seem to be the only things to be concerned about. That is an adjustment that seems to take maybe 15 to 30 minutes of practice.
The position playing becomes a little tricky for me...less side english and more of just a rolling cueball with follow or straight draw
I wonder how he decided to invent something like this
 
Am I missing out on anything by not buying the DVD? (The You tubes are good.)

Yes, there is more info on the DVD's that are very helpful.

[/QUOTE]The position playing becomes a little tricky for me...[/QUOTE]

With the sweeps, you would sweep directly to the english you wish to apply and then shoot the shot as if you were at CCB. I'm unsure about using a manual pivot, though I would assume it would be a parallel shift. I have not used side english with a manual pivot. [/QUOTE]

[/QUOTE] I wonder how he decided to invent something like this[/QUOTE]

He didn't invent the system, but he greatly expanded it and is finding ways to explain it better than the inventor did, IMO.
 
I am a very new user of this CTE aiming. Am I missing out on anything by not buying the DVD? (The You tubes are good.)
I think one of the most exciting aspects of it is that the principles work the same on any size pool table!
I have a Valley bar table here at home with customized very tight pockets. Using his "angles" of 15,30,45,60... the balls go in nice without even aiming at the pocket.
At the local pool room, the same thing works on the big 9 footer.
But......when going to different size tables, the SPEED and power of the hit seem to be the only things to be concerned about. That is an adjustment that seems to take maybe 15 to 30 minutes of practice.
The position playing becomes a little tricky for me...less side english and more of just a rolling cueball with follow or straight draw
I wonder how he decided to invent something like this


Concerning CCB vs Spin.
They are each hugely important for high level play. It is best to learn CCB first with CTE. Once center cue ball is properly learned, meaning that you completely understand how to get your eyes in the correct place, then the use spin becomes much easier because the spin adjustments,?when they occur, are very precise.

Stan Shuffett
 
Concerning CCB vs Spin.
They are each hugely important for high level play. It is best to learn CCB first with CTE. Once center cue ball is properly learned, meaning that you completely understand how to get your eyes in the correct place, then the use spin becomes much easier because the spin adjustments,?when they occur, are very precise.
Stan Shuffett
Thank you vey much for the free lesson here.
The previous poster scared me with the comments about "sweeps" because honestly, I have no idea how or why to do them.
I am just getting to the correct (I hope) spot using what he called a 'parallel shift' from the half tip position using my bridge hand fingers only. I know trying with that back hand doing something I saw on youtube called Pivot Aiming made things terrible.
When I put a little needed english on the cueball on 15 and 30 cut shots the spin seems to take good off the first rail and the second rail even more. On the down the rail shots, not frozen, that are 15 degrees, I add a tiny bit of inside...both draw and follow. 30 degree shots down the rail seem to go in easier with just straight draw or follow.
I know I like not being concerned about where the pocket is. Choosing the angle that my eyes see and making the cueball the target is more foolproof in my opinion.
 
It's like playing 14.1. After a while you see the patterns pretty easily.Lou Figueroa
When you're playing straight pool, do you see the angles(patterns) in CTE as well as in 9-Ball since straights is mostly a half table game?
Also, does it work good in one pocket?
 
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Thank you vey much for the free lesson here.
The previous poster scared me with the comments about "sweeps" because honestly, I have no idea how or why to do them.
I am just getting to the correct (I hope) spot using what he called a 'parallel shift' from the half tip position using my bridge hand fingers only. I know trying with that back hand doing something I saw on youtube called Pivot Aiming made things terrible.
When I put a little needed english on the cueball on 15 and 30 cut shots the spin seems to take good off the first rail and the second rail even more. On the down the rail shots, not frozen, that are 15 degrees, I add a tiny bit of inside...both draw and follow. 30 degree shots down the rail seem to go in easier with just straight draw or follow.
I know I like not being concerned about where the pocket is. Choosing the angle that my eyes see and making the cueball the target is more foolproof in my opinion.

I'm sorry pard,,,, I know now exactly where you are. I started out using the youtube videos as well and it was very hard to put it all together. I'd recomend you get the DVD's from Stan if possible, as they help it make sense, and then study the 5 step videos on youtube Stan put up to really get a grasp on how useful this system is.
Again, sorry to confuse you.
 
When you're playing straight pool, do you see the angles(patterns) in CTE as well as in 9-Ball since straights is mostly a half table game?
Also, does it work good in one pocket?


I'm just going to put this out here.

You need to PM me with something that will convince me that you aren't who I think you are.

I'll give you 24 hours
 
I'm sorry pard,,,, I know now exactly where you are. I started out using the youtube videos as well and it was very hard to put it all together. I'd recomend you get the DVD's from Stan if possible, as they help it make sense, and then study the 5 step videos on youtube Stan put up to really get a grasp on how useful this system is.
Again, sorry to confuse you.
I'm trying.
It is doing better. :thumbup:
 
I'm just going to put this out here.

You need to PM me with something that will convince me that you aren't who I think you are.

I'll give you 24 hours


A pretty good kill for the mod.

It wasn't until straightdraw's last post to me that I got that old familiar feeling :-)

Lou Figueroa
good shot
 
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