I'm a beginner who wants to get serious. Need help with buying...

I

itzzjason

Registered
Firstly, I'm new to the forum so I'd like to say hello all and I hope I'm posting in the proper section.

So I've been playing billiards/pool for a really long time. But I was never serious about it until recently.
I mostly play 8-ball and would like to get into 9-ball and 10-ball.

I've always been using house cues. But un-warped cues are becoming rarer as each day passes.
Also, I've been asked to join an 8-ball league
So now I'm interested in purchasing my own gear:
playing cue stick, breaking/jumping cue stick (or breaking cue stick and jumping cue stick separately), case, chalk, glove, etc.

But I have many questions before I invest in anything.

Playing cue stick questions:
What's the difference between a $15 cue stick and a $1000 cue stick?
I personally don't care about the design/looks (which is what I feel like influences the price the most), so should I just buy any cheap stick?
What's the average/normal length of cue sticks? The house sticks were a good length for me. I believe they're 57 inches. Does this matter?
Anything else I should know about playing sticks?

Breaking/jumping cue stick questions:
Is a break/jump stick necessary? If so, should I get one for both uses or 1 for each use? What else should I know about these types of sticks?

Accessories questions:
What's a good chalk brand to buy?

Adjustable or fitted glove or doesn't matter? I saw a Predator and Poison glove for sale. They both have something special on the glove for better performance. Whereas the regular gloves I saw is just the same design and color all over. Does this really make a difference?
Here are the links to the gloves I saw:
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/sirjoblbiglm.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/sirjoadblbig1.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/prbiglsm.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/pobiglsm.html

Is a joint protector necessary? Why do you need it?

Do I need the tip tools? What's the difference between all the tip tools (scuffer, shaper, trimmer, etc)?

Do I really need those special towels/rags/pads to wipe the shaft? Can I use a towel or ShamWow that I have at home?

Why do some cases hold more shafts than butts? Why do you need extra shafts?
I need at least a 2B/2S case for me and my girlfriend’s playing sticks.
May need a larger case depending on if I decide to buy other sticks. But the larger cases that I see hold more shafts than butts rather than evenly.

General questions:
What's a good retailer to shop from?
I only know of www.ozonebilliards.com. Are they good? Do they give the best prices?



I'm looking forward to receiving excellent advice/help from all of you. And thank you for bearing with this long post!!

J
 
Hello, Im new to this forum too! If your looking to get your own equipment and not looking to spend a small fortune. I'd suggest a Players cue, you can get a really nice cue for under $100.00. But that is my opinion. $1000 dollar cues i dont have much experience with that. but your getting into more expensive inlays varnishes wraps etc. But guess what, you can have a $1000.00 cue but it wont help your game if you dont know what your doing to begin with. Breaking stick I'd use a house cue. Learn to draw the cue ball then I would think about getting a break stick. But thats up to you if you can draw the cue ball really well you may not need a heavy break stick you have a good snap in your wrist in your stroke, i like using a 21oz house cue just to break really nice. joint protectors i like having them on my threads of my cue cause i dont want to damage them i have them on my piloted shafts, tip tools i only suggest a tip pick because you dont want to grind away at your tip you want to get as much life out of your tip as possible at least i do but as you use your cue often your tip will become smooth over time use a tip pick to rough it up a bit and it will hold chalk fairly well. i like master chalk but the pool hall i go to thats what they have on the tables. i use med/soft tips cause Im still learning my self so i only use sand paper like 1200 grit when my tip starts mushrooming around the outside of my ferrule. I have a bandana and a terry washcloth to wipe my hands and or my shaft when itt starts getting sticky you probably could get a microfiber cloth for yours if you possible want pooldawg.com is a good place to buy from cuesight.com i wouldnt suggest buying cues off ebay but maybe accesories i have one cue that has two shafts i have one shaft is a phenolic g10 tip for breaking and jumping i cant use it to break in the APA and you also cant break down your cue in a match so i really dont use my shaft with the g10 unless i just playing with friends and i have another shaft for playing with a triangle tip but as you play and learn more about low deflection shafts and things like what tip you prefer you may want different shafts you dont have to spend alot to have fun you can get a decent 2x2 case off ebay it will hold up fairly well if you take care of it dont over load it or hang it up in you car and yank on it
 
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You only need a cue that cost between $100 and $200.
Yes you need a tip tool and a case.

You don't really need a break cue, but I recommend that you buy one from me.

Ozone does not have the best prices...I do.

So...I can sell you a cue, break cue, tip tool, and a case for a cheaper price than Ozone.:smile:
 
itzzjason said:
Firstly, I'm new to the forum so I'd like to say hello all and I hope I'm posting in the proper section.

So I've been playing billiards/pool for a really long time. But I was never serious about it until recently.
I mostly play 8-ball and would like to get into 9-ball and 10-ball.

I've always been using house cues. But un-warped cues are becoming rarer as each day passes.
Also, I've been asked to join an 8-ball league
So now I'm interested in purchasing my own gear:
playing cue stick, breaking/jumping cue stick (or breaking cue stick and jumping cue stick separately), case, chalk, glove, etc.

But I have many questions before I invest in anything.

Playing cue stick questions:
What's the difference between a $15 cue stick and a $1000 cue stick?
I personally don't care about the design/looks (which is what I feel like influences the price the most), so should I just buy any cheap stick?
What's the average/normal length of cue sticks? The house sticks were a good length for me. I believe they're 57 inches. Does this matter?
Anything else I should know about playing sticks?

Breaking/jumping cue stick questions:
Is a break/jump stick necessary? If so, should I get one for both uses or 1 for each use? What else should I know about these types of sticks?

Accessories questions:
What's a good chalk brand to buy?

Adjustable or fitted glove or doesn't matter? I saw a Predator and Poison glove for sale. They both have something special on the glove for better performance. Whereas the regular gloves I saw is just the same design and color all over. Does this really make a difference?
Here are the links to the gloves I saw:
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/sirjoblbiglm.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/sirjoadblbig1.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/prbiglsm.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/pobiglsm.html

Is a joint protector necessary? Why do you need it?

Do I need the tip tools? What's the difference between all the tip tools (scuffer, shaper, trimmer, etc)?

Do I really need those special towels/rags/pads to wipe the shaft? Can I use a towel or ShamWow that I have at home?

Why do some cases hold more shafts than butts? Why do you need extra shafts?
I need at least a 2B/2S case for me and my girlfriend’s playing sticks.
May need a larger case depending on if I decide to buy other sticks. But the larger cases that I see hold more shafts than butts rather than evenly.

General questions:
What's a good retailer to shop from?
I only know of www.ozonebilliards.com. Are they good? Do they give the best prices?



I'm looking forward to receiving excellent advice/help from all of you. And thank you for bearing with this long post!!

J
Click to expand...

It depends on how serious you want to be. If pro player serious, you have to get a pool table at home; plus all you mentioned. If league serious, a good cue, i recommend OB2 shaft..about $200-250 cue. Break cue do help.
 
Welcome to the forum. As many will likely point out, the search tool is your portal to a wealth of knowledge already available on the forum, although you might have to get clever with search queries (4char minimum, so 'cue' won't work).

It seems the unanimous (or as clear of a unanimous an answer as you can get) is the Players, specifically, I believe the HXT series, which is supposed to be ridiculous for its price.
At the low end (<$100), you'll might be missing out on things like low deflection shafts (more on this later), real inlays on the butt (which doesn't matter to you so much), and whatever else you'd expect from the combination of low craftsman ship and high production volume.

I think typical cues run somewhere around 58-60"? Someone should correct me if I'm wildly off. Length doesn't matter a huge deal, it's more of a preference thing, as well as wishing you had an extra inch or two on those shots you hunker over the table. You can buy extensions for your butt though if it comes to such drastic measures, so it's not the most important thing.


In simple terms, think about the priority of importance of things from the tip down. The tip is most heavily going to influence how the shot feels, which doesn't sound too critical (I'm guilty of thinking "well I don't really care how it feels" when I was asking for gear advice), but it's ultimately EVERYTHING. Take special note of your tip in the long run, maybe try some different hardnesses and brands out there. Harder tips will last longer, but don't hold chalk as well. If you're crafty or thrifty, tip replacements are something you can do on your own with a few simple tools. Someone with a $2000 cue setup is not likely to do this, nor would someone with a $80 cue pay $40 every few months to have a new tip installed.

Then there's the ferrule (that white bit), which is going to vary in material between anything from a plastic sleeve (bad), and something more exotic like ivory. The shaft diameter might make the most noticeable difference. 14mm is pretty chunky, and 11.75 is pretty slim. I'd say start around 12.5-12.75mm, and work your way in preference from there.

Low deflection is a property of the shaft which reduces the amount the cue ball pushes off to the side when you hit with sidespin. Lots of folks like it, a lot don't because of how it feels. I'd say give it a shot, but be warned that you will have to compensate when playing with a regular cue.

Joints are also an important thing to take into consideration for upgrading shafts. 3/8x10 and 5/16x18 screw threads are pretty common in lower end butts, and most popular shafts are available in those fits.

Regarding break/jump shafts, it's a matter of how much you're willing to haul around from a necessity/cost standpoint. Easy way might be to think about owning a 4in. smartphone (jump cue) and a 10in. tablet (break cue) vs compromising for a 6in. smartphone (the jump/break equivalent) or however big they are now. The jump/break combo might not do as well of a job at either task (this of course depends on what you're comparing with), but it gets 90% of the job done. You might not even jump often, so a jump/break could give you sufficient access to jumping for the few times you do actually want it.

You'll typically want a harder tip for these cues. Phenolic is a popular material, which barely holds chalk, but hits immensely hard. Samsara tips are leather and are a bit pricey starting out, but wildly popular here.

Whether you need a dedicated cue for breaking is up to you. If you've got a delicate, high end cue with softer materials that don't do well under repeated shock, it's a no-brainer. But if you're using a $100 cue that you wouldn't cry over if it got a slight bit of taper roll or cosmetic blemish, less of a necessity. Many people do like breaking with the same size shaft as their playing cue, so will opt for a break cue of similar dimensions.

Chalk isn't so important at this stage, it won't turn a 2/10 player into a 3/10, nor will it make a 9.5 player a 9.6. The better chalks stay on for more shots, but starting early on, is much better to chalk before each shot to ingrain it as part of your pre stroke routine (which becomes highly important later on). When I started using Predator chalk for the first time and started to chalk less often, I often found myself in a conflicted state of whether or not to chalk; an extra thought to distract me from my shot.

People seem to love or hate gloves. I don't believe there's any particular property of a glove that would make a substantial difference as far as materials go. I prefer fingerless gloves so I can get a better tactile feel of my bridge hand on the table. They do let the shaft go through smoother, but you do look a bit serious, too much for some.

Joint protectors do as they say. It's more for the butt end in storage. If the joint gets knocked around, you risk causing some roll in your cue.

Tip tools help you scuff up the tip to give better chalk retention (think sandpaper before gluing something). Scuffers remove material, tip picks (the needle things) poke small holes without removing material, shapers bring your tip back to a dime or nickel curvature (preference-based) if you miscue and change the shape slightly.

Maintenance is something to play close attention to. Water may not be a good idea to introduce to your wooden shaft, as is sandpaper. Towels can remove grime, but pool towels don't differ from other towels. The Qwiz is a popular item to smooth the shaft.

Lots of serious players play with multiple shafts in case a tip flies off or you smash one in a fit of rage during play. Again, this is where knowing your joint type is important. Dedicated jump cues usually involve storing just the shaft in the main compartment, and the shorter butt in one of the longer exterior pockets.
 
for a beginner, i recommend not breaking the bank on your own equipment. Lots of people will toss around names and lingo and until you really feel the difference, keep it simple until you are comfortable and get try different stuff.

I recommend shopping on amazon and look for orders fulfilled by amazon and/or amazon prime. Amazon has great customer service. I ordered a shaft before a tournament recently, which arrived shattered (thanks UPS for folding that box into 3rds!!!) and I was leaving the next morning. A quick 5minute call to amazon had a tracking number for a new one being over-nighted to the hotel I would be staying at.

Anyway, a cue like this
http://www.amazon.com/Dufferin-Gold...=1395124325&sr=1-6&keywords=dufferin+pool+cue

a case like this
http://www.amazon.com/EastPoint-Bil...=UTF8&qid=1395125088&sr=1-5&keywords=cue+case

a tip tool like this
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Tip-To...=UTF8&qid=1395125178&sr=1-2&keywords=tip+tool

and a green scotch brite scouring pad for the shaft.

Use a house cue to break.

This will have you going for a total of around $70.


A kit like this is an alternative:
http://www.amazon.com/McDermott-Kit...=UTF8&qid=1395125644&sr=1-26&keywords=cue+kit

I would toss the chalk and scuffer and get a tip tool like the one above and a scouring pad.... price is about the same.


As for a glove....if you think you want one, start using it right away and get use to it. I have 1 poison glove in case and 6 cheap ones. Generally speaking, the cheap ones (i got 10 for 3.99 or something like that) work just fine and if one tears or wears, i just grab a different one. If a friend is curious, i can give them one. The poison glove...the open fingers are nice. I once had a cue ball slip out of my fingers with full finger glove. However, the poison glove has this red rubbery stuff on the top which sucks if using an open hand bridge. bridging over a ball is kind of a pain. There is a rubber grip thing on the palm also...this is good and bad...keeps hand in place on table, but if you want to adjust your hand a little bit...it grips to the cloth. need to pick up hand and readjust instead of sliding it a bit. just something i had to get a feel for.
 
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Check out Ebay for a nice used Joss cue or some other good, solid hitting production cue like Mezz, Schon, etc. There are always deals to be had there. Many include cases and other accessories. You could also check out the "Wanted/For Sale" forum here at AZB. Forget the break cue for now. Use a house cue to break. Click the "AZB Marketplace" link at the top of this page and check out Seybert's. There's also Ozone, Pool Dawg, Muellers, Billiards Warehouse, Atlas, etc to buy from. 99% of all cues are the same length, 58". Most players have a spare playing shaft with their primary playing cue just in case something happens to your primary shaft/tip in the middle of a match or something. You never know when some idiot will knock you cue to the floor sending the tip flying across the room.

then PRACTICE!.........A LOT! And do get in that 8-ball league. Playing for something...anything...will make you better by increasing your focus and desire to win.
 
Do not get a scouring pad for your shaft as above, bad idea unless you like to coat pool room floors with little pieces of your shaft.

Until you get some playing behind you with proper stance and stroke mechanics, the cue you pick now does not matter much. I would suggest going to a lower low deflection shaft as it will be more forgiving to any cueing mistakes when you use spin.

Once you get to a higher level (C+ or so) you should have figured out through trial and error and trying other cues from friends what type of hit you like, and then you can look for a more permanent addition.

I went though probably 5-6 cues in the first 5 years of playing. In the next 20 I went though 2 main players, with 2 more I tried for a month or so.

For break cue, you don't need one, can just use a house cue, or even your playing cue to break. Not using your main cue to break mainly keeps the tip from getting worn or out of shape faster, and can prevent dings if you happen to flail a bit on a hard break and hit the table with the side of your cue (which I've seen happen with beginners when they try to power a break).

Towel, soft cloth, tip tool, 1x1 hard case with a pouch, all good to have. The rest are not really needed. Joint protectors are pretty cheap and can help you grab your cue from the case, and do serve some protection for the joint when you get a better cue.

My #1 suggestion for a new cue is the Players HXT (Pure X now), I like the wood to wood joints for feel, but as I said, you are not really going to be using this cue for too long so you can pick what you like. If you click on the Marketplace link on AZB you can get a Players cue for around $100-150. If you like a wrap: http://www.seyberts.com/products/Pure_X_by_Players_HXTE10_Pool_Cue-102578-10161.html No wrap: http://www.seyberts.com/products/Pure_X_by_Players_HXTE5_Pool_Cue-103319-10161.html Both classy looking so you don't look like a goof ball when you pull it out. They come with a very good tip and shaft so you can get a good feel of what a good cue should feel like.
 
I like ozone but if you live in NYC you should consider going to a pool room that sells stuff and buy from them instead.

The only things you need are a cue and a case. I'd suggest a sneaky pete, which looks like a house cue but is cut in half. Don't get a glove, don't get joint protectors, don't buy tip tools, don't buy a jump or break cue, and don't buy chalk. You can borrow most of that stuff from other players who can show them to you so you can form your own preferences.
 
player not the cue. buy whatever makes you happy. just be aware, in the future you may find that you prefer another cue as your game progresses.
 
OB & Mezz would be a good place to start. I'd go with an entry level (low cost) model. Get a nice tip tool. A simple Willard's tool is my favorite. No need for a break cue. Players would do themselves justice to learn to break like it's any other shot. You'll get much better control from your playing cue, and there's no need for a crazy hammer hard break. Solid contact is more important than power, IMO. I'd also recommend learning to kick & bank before trying to jump. Those are critical shots to learn & if you're going to be serious, you'll need to know how. Lastly, paint the chalk on in swipes rather than twisting it on. That's about it. Keep it simple & focus on what really matters, which is making balls. Later on you'll get into more expensive personalized cues, but for now it would do you no justice.
 
Welcome to AZB & the great "world of pocket billiards"

You can buy a $15 cue that only requires a better tip for it to play well. I bought two from a cue dealer at the BCA. Myself I have 3 cues valued at $2800, 3 Break Cues & 2-3 Cases, but I just put them away to use a customized Sneaky Pete, because it plays so well. Thanks to Guido Orlandi.

Get a Cue that is straight & feels good to you. The cue can be modified with a good tip & maybe the weight can be manipulated. Get a soft case & & couple good books & you're ready to start learning. The other stuff can wait.

I would suggest a couple books. One is "Byrne's complete book of pool shots & Banking with the Beard, by Bentivegna ". When you're finished & proficient with this material, you'll have some good experience under your belt & ready to play competively.

There are lots of Pool books to read & time to apply your new found knowledge. There is a life span of knowledge on YouTube, that will help you.

Maybe you might want to think about finding a Coach to start off with.

The Pro Shop is there when you've learned how to use the equipment.

Good Luck.
 
BRussell said:
I like ozone but if you live in NYC you should consider going to a pool room that sells stuff and buy from them instead.

The only things you need are a cue and a case. I'd suggest a sneaky pete, which looks like a house cue but is cut in half. Don't get a glove, don't get joint protectors, don't buy tip tools, don't buy a jump or break cue, and don't buy chalk. You can borrow most of that stuff from other players who can show them to you so you can form your own preferences.
Click to expand...

Anything sold at a store in NYC is at near retail and a rip off. Outside of maybe 1 or 2 pool halls when on sale.
 
nycdarkness said:
Anything sold at a store in NYC is at near retail and a rip off. Outside of maybe 1 or 2 pool halls when on sale.
Click to expand...

Sometimes the extra money you spend on person to person sales at a brick & mortar building is worth the extra $$ in service. If you have a local cue supplier who does cue repairs its not a bad idea to get to know him. Try getting a tip replaced on the interweb. You can also try a variety of cues/shafts at a brick & mortar supplier.
 
fastone371 said:
Sometimes the extra money you spend on person to person sales at a brick & mortar building is worth the extra $$ in service. If you have a local cue supplier who does cue repairs its not a bad idea to get to know him. Try getting a tip replaced on the interweb. You can also try a variety of cues/shafts at a brick & mortar supplier.
Click to expand...

That is true. However, places like that for billiard equipment don't really exist in NYC. There's only 1 billiard shop that I know of in NYC and I can tell you anything there is higher than retail, and if you want any work done for your cue, shaft, etc they have to send it off to someone else to do. Ofc as a nycer I know if I need any work done, Ill just go contact RH.
 
itzzjason said:
What's the difference between a $15 cue stick and a $1000 cue stick?
A lot, but if you're a beginner, you won't be able to tell.

I personally don't care about the design/looks (which is what I feel like influences the price the most), so should I just buy any cheap stick?
Get a Players sneaky pete and be done with the shopping.

What's the average/normal length of cue sticks?
58 inches.

The house sticks were a good length for me. I believe they're 57 inches. Does this matter?
No, but if you are tall, a longer cue may be more comfortable.

Anything else I should know about playing sticks?
Your first cue won't be your last.

Is a break/jump stick necessary?
Not at all, especially for a beginner.

If so, should I get one for both uses or 1 for each use?
See above.

What else should I know about these types of sticks?
That they are specific application cues and are not necessary to pocket a ball.

What's a good chalk brand to buy?
Buy chalk? Never. Masters chalk is the standard, it should be available wherever you play. If not, you can buy a two pack for under $3.

Adjustable or fitted glove or doesn't matter?
You don't need a glove, unless you want a glove.

I saw a Predator and Poison glove for sale. They both have something special on the glove for better performance. Whereas the regular gloves I saw is just the same design and color all over. Does this really make a difference?
Gimmicks. Buy a Sir Joseph glove if you must have one.

Is a joint protector necessary?
Not for a cheap cue. Spending $10, $15, $20+ to protect a $50 cue is silly.

Why do you need it?
It keeps dirt and funk from building up inside the joint and will protect the pin if you drop the cue.

Do I need the tip tools?
Nope.

What's the difference between all the tip tools (scuffer, shaper, trimmer, etc)?
One scuffs, one shapes, and one trims.

Do I really need those special towels/rags/pads to wipe the shaft?
Nope.

Can I use a towel or ShamWow that I have at home?
Yes.

Why do some cases hold more shafts than butts?
Because, like myself, I have a lot of crap that's unnecessary.

Why do you need extra shafts?
I don't, but in reality it's piece of mind.

What's a good retailer to shop from?
Ozone Billiards
Seybert's
Pooldawg
Billiardswarehouse

I only know of www.ozonebilliards.com. Are they good?
Yes, I've bought plenty from them.

Do they give the best prices?
Sometimes, you need to be a smart shopper.
Click to expand...

See answers in red.
 
Thanks everyone! You've all been a great help!

More follow-up questions:
-What's the cheapest low deflection stick? About how much is it?

-Some of you mentioned to get a Sneaky Pete. But my search for a Sneaky Pete comes up with different brands. Which brand of Sneaky Pete is being recommended?

-Regardless of which brand of Sneaky Pete, I find them all to be expensive. It is currently last on my list of cue sticks. (I have to buy 2 sticks; 1 for me and 1 for my girlfriend)
So how are these sticks?
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/fat-cat-cues-shockwave-blue-50-8111.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/fat-cat-cues-slammer-nylon-wrap-blue-50-8107.html
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/viper-cues-elite-blue-no-wrap-pp-06.html
 
I think a good starter cue is a Predator Sneaky Pete. It is a cue you will not be unhappy with and you can probably find one on Ebay for a decent price. It might cost you a bit more than a Player like some suggest but the advantage is the Predator is a low deflection cue and as you get more serious you will see the advantages for this sort of technology. Actuallly there are a lot of low deflection cues and you will be equally as happy with them I am sure. Whats nice about the Predator is it is pretty well known and will be easy to sell if you decide to get something else.

Don't think you need to worry about a break cue or jump cue and all of that other stuff you were talking about. Once you join a league you will see what other folks have and get tons of opinions on that.

I played with a Predator for a longtime and was really satisfied with it whihc is why I mentioned that brand. I'm playing with a Jocoby Hybrid Edge now and like it better. Just thought I would throw that extra information in for grins. Good luck in the league; you will really enjoy it.
 
Don't spend a lot of money on your first cue. 200 dollars max until you develop solid fundementals. Spend more on your third cue. You'll be glad you waited.
 
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