Inserts

RocketQ

RocketQ

It's Not Rocket Science
Silver Member
Is any one else making their own threaded inserts? I started about 3 years ago and refuse to use bought ones. Inserts are blind so no worry bout epoxy on the threads also keeps everything solid.
I use naval brass 485 instead of 464. Just curious if anyone else is making their own besides me?
 
RocketQ said:
Is any one else making their own threaded inserts? I started about 3 years ago and refuse to use bought ones. Inserts are blind so no worry bout epoxy on the threads also keeps everything solid.
I use naval brass 485 instead of 464. Just curious if anyone else is making their own besides me?
Click to expand...

I've made my own bushings for years. What I like, is the fact that I can thread the rod, glue it into the shaft & THEN drill & tap the hole. That way the threaded hole is always concentric with the OD of the shaft, at the joint...JER
 
I used to make inserts out of aluminum actually. It wasn't long before I came to the realization that I certainly wasn't saving any money. Atlas recently raised their price on inserts. It used to be I could buy lots of 50 for less than $1.ea. Now I think they're $1.25 ea. in lots of 25 or more. I won't even flip the switch on my lathe for $1.25. Even with a screw machine I don't think I could compete with that price. I'm content to let someone else make them. Hidden bonus - no scrap. Store bought ain't bad and you've got some choices. I do understand the challenge/reward of DIY though. Unfortunately I've got other challenges elsewhere and time seems to be at a premium these days.
 
RocketQ said:
Is any one else making their own threaded inserts? I started about 3 years ago and refuse to use bought ones. Inserts are blind so no worry bout epoxy on the threads also keeps everything solid.
I use naval brass 485 instead of 464. Just curious if anyone else is making their own besides me?
Click to expand...

Hi John,
I sense your concern for epoxy getting in the internal thrds. so I'll share something that should make your life easier. When I get an order of inserts in, I mix-up some 2t epox, place a pc. of wax paper on my bench and put a dab of epox on the backside of all the inserts to close the hole, placing them backside down on the wax paper so that they are standing face up. Come back the next day, lift them of the paper, clean up the epoxied end on the disc-sander and I've got capped inserts. I also cut a groove length wise on the insert to provide a 'locking key-way', the cured epox being the 'key'. After they are installed in the shaft and faced, I run a 1/4" drill through the insert 1 1/4" deep to re-open the insert and to provide clearance for the occasional long pin. I do a lot of repair work and not all 5/16 pins are the same length. I hope this helps.
 
I get my blanks from Ct. Cue Parts, 7/16X14 O.D. solid body with a 9/16's cap, I prefer to do the I.D. threading after it's in the shaft.
 
KJ Cues said:
Hi John,
I sense your concern for epoxy getting in the internal thrds. so I'll share something that should make your life easier. When I get an order of inserts in, I mix-up some 2t epox, place a pc. of wax paper on my bench and put a dab of epox on the backside of all the inserts to close the hole, placing them backside down on the wax paper so that they are standing face up. Come back the next day, lift them of the paper, clean up the epoxied end on the disc-sander and I've got capped inserts. I also cut a groove length wise on the insert to provide a 'locking key-way', the cured epox being the 'key'. After they are installed in the shaft and faced, I run a 1/4" drill through the insert 1 1/4" deep to re-open the insert and to provide clearance for the occasional long pin. I do a lot of repair work and not all 5/16 pins are the same length. I hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Good tip KJ I never thought of doing that epoxy trick.

Thanks,
Craig
 
Craig,
You're very welcome. If I'm going to share this morsel properly I should also inform you of a slight concern. As with any capped insert there is a risk of hydraulic action when installing. Overload the hole with epox and start spinning the insert in. Liquids do not compress and that epox now wants outta there bad. It WILL split the shaft. For this reason, it's advised that you only use enough to do the job. Epoxy is amazingly strong.
 
These are the NUTS.... very accurate. Cheap at twice the price, too.
INSSA.jpg
 
Thanks kj

KJ Cues said:
Hi John,
I sense your concern for epoxy getting in the internal thrds. so I'll share something that should make your life easier. When I get an order of inserts in, I mix-up some 2t epox, place a pc. of wax paper on my bench and put a dab of epox on the backside of all the inserts to close the hole, placing them backside down on the wax paper so that they are standing face up. Come back the next day, lift them of the paper, clean up the epoxied end on the disc-sander and I've got capped inserts. I also cut a groove length wise on the insert to provide a 'locking key-way', the cured epox being the 'key'. After they are installed in the shaft and faced, I run a 1/4" drill through the insert 1 1/4" deep to re-open the insert and to provide clearance for the occasional long pin. I do a lot of repair work and not all 5/16 pins are the same length. I hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Thanks KJ that is a good one. The other reason I don't like the bought ones most of them are 7/16-20 The seem to pull out too easy. I have never had a problem with hydrolic lock on an insert. relief line lets her bleed.
Rep to you.
 
Thanx Bud,
Anytime. Please note, Atlas std. inserts are 7/16 x 14 thread. It's the self-aligning that are 20 pitch. You can get good alignment with the stds. also with a counter-bore in the face of the shaft .020" deep x .500 wide and let the head of the insert do your centering/alignment. The insert's head is .110" thick so after setting the .020" in the shaft, you still have .090" exposed. This works particularly well in phenolic.
 
I am gonna sooner or later get my pictures of these up.
I gotta find my camera. Damn thing has gone awol since the move. I am finally gonna get to the shop to start getting things set back up and running tonight. Raisng lathes up and leveling. I will worry about power tomorrow I think. Then again it may be a late night.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top