Installing a ferrule - Elementary my dear

Just for your own amusement, try using a freshly sharpened HSS bit with a sharp point and heavy relief angle, and install the ferrule with Titebond II wood glue. The good thing about HSS is that it cuts the wood much cleaner than carbide, and it can easily be ground to a shape that's ideal for the application. Those carbide bits are great for machining metal, but don't have enough relief to cut wood. It tears the wood as much as it cuts. Anyway, try the HSS and wood glue. Neither costs much so it won't be an expensive experiment, and I bet you'll be very happy with the result.
 
If the ferrule is wobbling before you dry the glue, it's no good.
Don't assume all pre-made ferrules are square at the bottom.
I face them all and clean the opening a little.
I hardly use pre-made ferrules these days b/c 1" long ferrules are so passe'.:D
I don't like 5/16 18 that much these days either.
 
cueman said:
Switch to good super sharp high speed steel bit to face the shoulder. Or regrind that carbide bit. That type of grind is not sharp enough for wood. Face it off with at least 1300 RPMs. Then use super clear five minute epoxy and fill the ferrule up and put glue on the front 3/4 of the tenon with no glue touching the shoulder. Let sit a couple of minutes to thicken up a little and then finish installing the ferrule all the way to the shoulder. This gives the glue very little time to soak into the shoulder and eliminates the glue stain you are experiencing.
Click to expand...

I just did 3 tonight your way Chris and since doing this I have never had any glue lines. I face the ferrule and thread/drill tap depending on shaft. I used tightbond and agree there will be no glue line, but I had a ferrule pop on me with it. Maybe if tightbond was threaded it would have no chance of popping, I will stick to epoxy though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top