Is it impossible to miscue when drawing with a large diameter tip?

I was just watching your video where you personally did the power draw. I'd like to see what your arm was doing during the shot, not just what happened to the balls.
I assume you are referring to this video:

NV B.65 - Power draw technique advice from VEPS I

Sorry my stroke isn't in view on that shot, but I think it is clear from watching the tip during both the backstroke and follow through that I am keeping my elbow still during the entire stroke and following all of the advice here:

draw shot technique advice resource page

I have a twitching problem and it tends to creep up when I'm drawing a long ways. This makes my shoulder rise and that naturally lowers the tip and MISCUE! Some days I can't get rid of it; others I'm fine. I'm working on feeling the weight of the butt in my hand along with a better shot thought and that helps me keep my whole stroking system in place. But still I sometimes lift the butt.
One common problem people have is tightening the grip during the stroke. This causes the butt to rise and the tip to fall, which can lead to a miscue.

Good luck,
Dave
 
I assume you are referring to this video:

NV B.65 - Power draw technique advice from VEPS I

Sorry my stroke isn't in view on that shot, but I think it is clear from watching the tip during both the backstroke and follow through that I am keeping my elbow still during the entire stroke and following all of the advice here:

draw shot technique advice resource page

One common problem people have is tightening the grip during the stroke. This causes the butt to rise and the tip to fall, which can lead to a miscue.

Good luck,
Dave

Yep, that's the video....I saw just a little, tiny "hoop-dee-do" in your stroke and that's why I wished your arm was visible.

Thanks for the advice. Keeping my grip loose is one of my constant efforts.

Jeff Livingston

PS I read your column in BD every month...it's one of the best. Maybe the best now that poor ol' George is gone.:(
 
Yep, that's the video....I saw just a little, tiny "hoop-dee-do" in your stroke and that's why I wished your arm was visible.
Regarless of whether there was a "hoop-dee-do" or not, please don't try to mimic me, Mike Massey, or anydoy else you might watch. It is best instead to follow the "best practices" advice on the draw technique resource page.

Thanks for the advice.
You are very welcome.

Keeping my grip loose is one of my constant efforts.
... you and half the pool players on the planet.

PS I read your column in BD every month...it's one of the best. Maybe the best now that poor ol' George is gone.:(
Thank you for the kind words. I miss George too. I'll miss him even more when his backlog of articles runs out.

Catch you later,
Dave
 
Gotcha. I'll do the math:

The CB radius is 28.6 mm. The contact point with your 12.75 mm tip aligned to CB edge would be around 11 mm from the outside edge, so 11/28.6 is 38%, meaning you're around 62% from the center. This assumes your cue is perfectly parallel to the shot line; more likely, it's pointed slightly to the outside, changing the calculation a bit.

It's easy to test your hypothesis: lay your cue flat on the table, and slide it into the CB trying to hit a draw shot. I just tried it with 12.5 and 13 mm tips and got miscues on every attempt.

Granted but we already know this will cause a miscue (partly because you are not hitting the center of the cueball). Raise the tip a hair and you will draw the ball fine. It does not take a lot of speed to draw the ball quite a ways. It does take a nice stroke though. As for your original question... I think you can miscue regardless of tip diameter.
 
That is true for a normally struck ball with an elevated cue. A full table draw shot can be better accomplished with a bouncing ball (if the distance the ball is jumped is controlled)

I was talking to John Schmidt at the Fury booth during SBE about the LD shaft he uses. It's his belief that the extreme flexibility of the shaft helps to grab the ball better, allowing him to get a full table draw without hitting the ball that hard.

I don't know that I believe his opinion about the flex in the shaft helping out, but I was super impressed with seeing his power draw up close. He uses a level cue, and hits the ball real low but not super fast. He had me set up several shots about a foot from the pocket and a few millimeters off the rail. With every one of them, the CB slid up perfectly flat on the cloth and sat there spinning for a split second before the spin grabbed and the ball headed all the way back to him like it was on a string.

I tried the same thing with the same shaft he uses and totally embarrassed myself. Special shaft or not, John hits the ball REAL GOOD! Lol
 
Hi Ron Hate to say this but I cut the forarm to short . I have another Pc of Amboyna and will get right on it . I had the other already cored and curing was ready to install the rings above the wrap , sorry . The forarm was cut at 14 1/2 and we would have a 2 to 3 ' amboyna butt plate , and I realize this is not what you wanted . I will get the other amboyna turned round and send pictures . Sorry Bud , Jim


No worries Jim.
 
Actually, if you're drawing with a 14mm tip then you won't get nearly as much draw as you could with a smaller tip size.

So, it would be harder to miscue but you wouldn't get as much draw either ;)
 
Actually, if you're drawing with a 14mm tip then you won't get nearly as much draw as you could with a smaller tip size.

So, it would be harder to miscue but you wouldn't get as much draw either ;)

To the first part mainly, why is that??
 
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