Is it the tip?

seymore15074 said:
I can't tell you how many times I've heard that a box of Triangles will be half "bad" ones. I am past half way through a box of them right now, and I have not yet encountered one bad tip. :rolleyes:
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seymore...Even if they were 'half bad', that would still only be $1 a tip! :D

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
 
ArizonaPete said:
I put a Moori Medium tip on my cue about 4 months ago and really liked it. My draw seemed improved and I was able to get more english on the cb. Lately it appears I don't get as much action on the cb. [...]
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This is a serious problem that requires drastic measures.

You sir, imo, have recently recovered from a case of new tip syndrome A milder version of new cue syndrome, the chief system of either is the player stays down and follows through on the shot.

The cheapest solution to this problem is to offer to buy a beer for any friend who is willing to take your shaft out of sight for ten minutes and tell you when he returns that he has put on the mother of all new tips.... It is very important that you trust your friend and believe anything he says.
 
We once got this batch of bad tips - unbelievably spongy... and I mean spongy. So we did a bunch of house cues in them and started hitting the four rail power draw (object ball and cue ball on short rail, make the shot, draw back around the table and end up boxed in the corner). Well, needless to say we were getting the cue ball back around 5 rails and up to the foot spot. Granted.... the tips lasted about 6 hits and then would pop off... but talk about english... LOL.
 
randyg said:
ust wondering if you think the thickness of the tip will affect action on the cue ball when juicing it, or if different tips will drastically affect a cue's playability when going farther out on the cue ball?

NOT MUCH!....randyg
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That's a well-considered, wise answer, with which I whole-heartedly agree.

It's also not an absolute statement that there is no change or difference, just that it's "not much." Nevertheless, some small, or less than small change can occur. It sure has happened with my cues and tips... In one case the cue ball was going slightly haywire. Way sensitive. A new tip was installed and in 10 minutes everything was playing fine. It certainly wasn't me; and the tip change calmed everything down.

Why might that be? Who knows, maybe there was an air pocket in the tip, a grain of sand, whatever. But that tip went way south. New tip, everything was alright.

Flex
 
Flex said:
The few hairs item I used was a rhetorical device to explain the idea that at a certain point a miscue will occur, a touch on the other side of the miscue point will avoid the miscue. And I have had the misfortune to miscue on some occasions, and when I check the tip have usually found there wasn't enough chalk at the location of the miscue, right on the edge of the tip, and there's usually a spot that is a tad bit shiny. Usually a judicious chalking at that point is enough to eliminate the problem, but if I have any doubt whatsoever about it, out comes the tip scuffer. I play almost exclusively with Milk Dud tips, you know the elkmaster tip soaked in milk for 24 hours and then compressed for another 24 hours. One may call it perception or whatever; I am happier with this tip than any of the others I've used, and I've used not a few. As for cost, they cost me less than 50 cents apiece, and I replace them myself.

People will argue about tips til the sun goes down and the cock crows in the wee hours of the morn, but those doggone screw on tips with what looks to be leather recycled from old shoes don't work too well, at least in my limited experience with them.

And for what it's worth, I think miscues are definitely more likely when shooting with the phenolic tip that's on one of my jump cues. Let those who perform actual scientific experiments tell me I'm all wet behind the ears, but for the life of me, I can't get those phenolics to play as well as my milk duds.

Flex
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Flex, I am going through the same thing right now. Moori tips seem to get harder as they wear down. I have to change mine also. I am miscuing alot right now. I'm not saying that I have no flaws in my stroke, but I do not have any miscue problems at all with a Moori until it wears down a certain amount.
Edit: I meant to quote the original poster, Arizona Pete
 
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This I agree with. I replace my tip about every 2-3 YEARS! I play almost every day, and I break with my playing cue too!

Scott Lee
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So what do you do to maintain a layered tip, or an unlayered tip for that matter. In particular, how do you deal with mushrooming?
 
If I miss or miscue it's on me. If I can't spin the cb it's on me (or table conditions beyond my control).

The feel of some cues and some tips seem to give me confidence but I think that's the only changes.

I think that we amateur players like to try all this different stuff in hopes that we'll find the "answer" but the only "answer" is time on the table. LOTS of time. If you truly want to be a REAL player it means total dedication to your game. A different cue or tip won't make a substantial difference to any part of my game.
 
I agree with most of the posts that the stroke may be to blame, but I will add my experience with Moori tips to the combination.

Over the last 3 years, I've gone through approx. 15 Moori Med. tips. One of which is still on my Sneaky Pete and doing fine. It was the first one installed and the most consistant of the bunch. The rest have been a revolving door...

I had one start to peel apart(layers physically came apart) after a med. firm bank-shot.

Another mushroomed after about 8 hours of play. So bad that it wouldn't fit in any port. cutter on the market.

The last one actually blew apart on one side. I hit a low-right draw shot to come off the rail and draw diagonally down table. Fairly firm, but the side of the tip literally came into pcs.

I won't ever use a Moori again! Besides the one on my Sneaky Pete. I have a sniper on all the other cues I own and haven't had to replace any of them. Some of the first ones have over 600 hours on them with no scuffing, cutting, or shaping needed and I can still hit any shot with confidence.

P.S. I break with my players and still have enough "grab" to play wide arcing masse shots.

I'd recommend Snipers to anyone regardless of the style of play.

JMHO,

Dave
 
PoolSponge said:
I would probably say it is the tip. I find that after the tip is worn down past the half way point the hit becomes harder and so the type and amount of spin I get changes. I like to feel my tip "bite" into the CB when I spin a shot. If my tip gets too low I find the hit plays harder and I get less "bite".
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I have the exact opposite experience from the original poster. I don't want more action, I expect predictable action.

I find that new tips play poorly/inconsistently. You may be getting more action, but it is not consistent. The tip will "conform" to your style of play and end up at the correct roundness you need. The longer you have it, the more "correctly" it will play for you.

I've seen a number of top players that play with the same tip until it is thin as a piece of paper because it is more consistent after playing it down past 1/2 height. I've even heard them call it "perfect" just before it has to be replaced.

IMO, that time from 1/2 to gone is the best and most consistent tip.

-td
 
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