is there's anyway to clean the shaft??? with out sand it down

hypnauticz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
sometimes chulk dirty the shaft..use a shaft cleaner doesn't help with some littly details inside the shaft,,is there's anyway to avoid the shaft to get dirty with the shaft..
 
Any shaft cleaner will work' Butt remember if you want to keep your shaft clean keep your HANDS CLEAN.
 
Use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. It will clean the shaft beautifully and afterwards you will only need a few swipes with 1500 grit. You will not have to "sand it down". The Magic Eraser gets it CLEAN and leaves it feeling like it has some short hairs sticking up. Just a few swipes with 1500 or even 2000 grit will leave it smooth. I'd hit it with a few wipes of 600 grit and then the 2000 and then some leather burnishing.
 
The most important thing:

Afterwards, burnish, burnish, burnish! I use just some plain white paper, fold it twice, and give the shaft a really thorough rubbing. Doing this a few times will seal the shaft well, and the surface will accept less chalk.

Afterwards, you can treat it with a furniture polish. I use a bee's wax-polish from Johnson. However, afaik Johnson in the US of A does not sell it. There is probably something similar. The bottle cost me appx. 3$ and will last some years, provided I don't use it up in the household :-)

My Kruger's shaft is a little over a year and does not show any signs of the blue plague - however it would be green since I use green chalk ;)

Regards,

Detlev
 
Q wiz

hypnauticz said:
sometimes chulk dirty the shaft..use a shaft cleaner doesn't help with some littly details inside the shaft,,is there's anyway to avoid the shaft to get dirty with the shaft..

Q Wiz is handy, non-abrasive, & miraculous.
 
berlowmj said:
Q Wiz is handy, non-abrasive, & miraculous.


Q Wiz IS abrasive.

One side is leather-like, for burnishing, and the other has an abrasive that feels to me like it would be equivilant to about 600 grit sandpaper.

Rub the cue with the rough side of Q Wiz and the pad will become white. The white stuff is wood that was removed from the shaft.... i.e. sanding dust, saw dust.
 
I use the smooth side of Q Wiz. I think it actually might have an extremely fine abrasive because stuff like chalk transfers onto it. I wash it when done. I STAY away from the rough side, unless someone complains about a sticky bar room cue.

I bought an 8 ounce container of Shark Oil from Seyberts recently. Not sure yet how well it keeps the chalk out.
 
JimS said:
Use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. It will clean the shaft beautifully and afterwards you will only need a few swipes with 1500 grit. You will not have to "sand it down". The Magic Eraser gets it CLEAN and leaves it feeling like it has some short hairs sticking up. Just a few swipes with 1500 or even 2000 grit will leave it smooth. I'd hit it with a few wipes of 600 grit and then the 2000 and then some leather burnishing.
This is bar none THE BEST METHOD around. And Jim has explained it down to a t. I tried this method today, and the results were freaking amazing! I mean really unbelievable. And that is coming from someone who is a clean freak and has tried nearly every method available. I don't know what's in those magic erasers but they're incredible. I hope they keep them on the market for years to come. This is a great method to get your shafts looking like brand new with hardly having to do any sanding.
 
Here are some previous threads about cleaning shafts:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=60019&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=48814&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=27483&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=12438&highlight=clean+shaft

I didn't really have time to look through any of these threads. I'm not gonna guarantee any results from any ideas. All I'm gonna say is be careful! It can be easier than you'd think to mess up the finish on a cue. And having a cue refinished IS NOT CHEAP.
 
Thank you

JesPiddlin said:
Here are some previous threads about cleaning shafts:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=60019&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=48814&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=27483&highlight=clean+shaft

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=12438&highlight=clean+shaft

I didn't really have time to look through any of these threads. I'm not gonna guarantee any results from any ideas. All I'm gonna say is be careful! It can be easier than you'd think to mess up the finish on a cue. And having a cue refinished IS NOT CHEAP.

Thanks for the info...



B.:)
 
If you switch to tan or gray chalk, you will be surprised how much better you shaft will look and stay.
 
CDs cues said:
If you switch to tan or gray chalk, you will be surprised how much better you shaft will look and stay.

What kind of dog is that in you'r avitar? Great lookin pup!
 
Thank you. He's the shop dog named Rufus. He's a shaved pomeranian. Kind of a big boy. 5 yrs old and 12lb.
 
CDs cues said:
If you switch to tan or gray chalk, you will be surprised how much better you shaft will look and stay.
I'm guessing you never owned a 30 table pool hall with green Simonis cloth that you are particular about. Just a guess.

I agree with keeping your hands clean during play. See a professional for cleaning when needed.

Gene
 
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for sure. I have been using them for quite awhile and they are the stuff. I sprinkle a couple of drops of Denatured Alcohol on it and rub the nasty right out. Next, about five strokes 1000 grit then 1500. Burnish with a brown paper bag, then a piece of smooth leather. After that I rub a couple of coats of Pledge in reall ggod. If you do it right all you have to do is rub it a couple of times real fast with the wifes Cannon hand towel you had to sneak out of the house while you are playing and its slick as a peeled onion once again.
Oh yeah cant say it enough.... Wash yer hands!!!!
 
Magic erasers work great, as mentioned above...use denatured alcohol. Even if you do this and clean your hands, it will get dirty again due to one big thing, IMHO, most people don't wipe down the entire shaft working from the joint towards the tip, wiping the tip last, after playing, and the chalk gets into the case, and your not going to get it out. Everytime you slide that nice clean shaft into a dirty case it will transfer the chalk dust right to it. I have finished cleaning a shaft and shaping a tip, and put it back into their case. When I give it back to them, they inspect it and I see the tip is blue already from the loose chalk dust built up in the bottom of the case. It looks like it just got chalked.
IMHO, here is my list that I tell customers after doing a shaft cleaning:
1) clean you hands before using everytime
2) After you have a profesional cleaning and sealing done, get a new case!!
3) always wipe the cue with a clean cloth starting at the joint going towards the tip, then wipe tip of all chalk as much as possible.
4) if it gets dirty, have a professional clean it and seal it properly.
Most don't do any of that unfortunatly, except #4, and I get to see them every few months or so for a cleaning:)
Dave
 
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Barkeepers friend works good. Then sand with 2000 grit or higher. After I like to use cue wax. This helps to keep the chalk from penetrating into the wood. I bought some 30+ year old Joss West shafts and they looked brand new after 2+ hours of hard work. Then every 2 weeks, repeat, less then 10 minutes.
 
Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax works great after the ME process described above. It is available at most Ace Hardware stores or their online store. Kevin Varney had a great thread on this a while back.
 
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