Its been a long time!! Need some info---with pics of AMF

Travis3c

AV Pool Nut
Silver Member
Well hello everyone, its been a quite awhile since I posted anything. I took a break from the billiard world for a while and just worked on some tables here and there over the last year. Anyways enough of that. I think I have a AMF playmaster here with a date of 1965 stamped on the underside of the rails. The rails are in great condition with lots of life left in the wood but as you can tell there has been some hack work done to the rails.

My job is to clean these up, true up the pocket angles. I am going to be performing a subrail extension on these the right way and true up the angles with a finished pocket of 4 inches per the customer wants.

I tried doing multiple searches and have no luck on finding the answers.

The cushions are set at 1-1/2-1-9/16. A little too high for my liking. here is a pic.
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here is the way the previous mechanic extended the subrail, i will be reworking this.
193_zpsc284f902.jpg

199_zps29ae3b73.jpg


It has the k66 artemis rubber installed, Is this the correct profile for this table? here is a pic
195_zps22bd82d8.jpg


Looks like a pretty stout table. This is the first one of these I ever worked on so I am looking forward to it.

I need to find some new pockets for this table also. If anyone knows where I can find some, let me know. I checked Ken's website and didnt find any AMF pockets.

Later
Travis
 
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Table

Hey Travis' .
The good ol' process of elimination will help answer those questions.
What's the nose height with rails bolted or clamped inplace on the slate?
What's the measurements of the top side of rail that is usually covered with cloth/poolfelt?
What's the measurements of the playing surface?
I think the k66 is what AMF was using.
But I do recall glen saying someting in a post about k66 playing its best at 1-3/8's but the rail bevel needs to be in-tune for true ball rebound. So you may want to get ahold of glen and discuss your AMF rail questions, he is very knowledgeable. I'm sure he's seen dozens of what you are working with now.
I personally have not had a master fast/manhattan cushion that needed replaced so I never really ever took any measurements of the old AMF rails but I will remember to take notes next time.
Best of luck
-
Enjoy,
Rob.M
 
hahaha, you like those. I was going to state that I did the work just to cause an uproar. Yea, im looking foward to reworking these rails.
 
I'm sure you've thought of this, but I can't tell from the pic...has the bottom of the rail been routered out for those rail bolt plates? Do the screws countersink? I can say I've never seen that one before. Then again, I'd never seen adjustable leg levelers super glued to a tile floor before and I encountered that today. LOL
 
hahaha, you like those. I was going to state that I did the work just to cause an uproar. Yea, im looking foward to reworking these rails.

it's funny because he knew not to stack facings to close the pocket and he knew the subrails had to be extended to close the pocket.

why not just cut a piece of wood and nail it to the subrail instead of stacking and shaping rubber?
 
I'm sure you've thought of this, but I can't tell from the pic...has the bottom of the rail been routered out for those rail bolt plates? Do the screws countersink? I can say I've never seen that one before. Then again, I'd never seen adjustable leg levelers super glued to a tile floor before and I encountered that today. LOL


every rail is like that. Although they look legit, i dont know if its factory or not. Maybe someone else can chime in. The screw does stick up a little and wont allow the rail to sit complete flush on the slate. I am going to counter sink the holes deeper in the steel strap to get the screw heads to sit flush in the hole. The strap itself is about 1/4 steel with a doubler at the mounting holes. The strap and doubler are tapped.
 
every rail is like that. Although they look legit, i dont know if its factory or not. Maybe someone else can chime in. The screw does stick up a little and wont allow the rail to sit complete flush on the slate. I am going to counter sink the holes deeper in the steel strap to get the screw heads to sit flush in the hole. The strap itself is about 1/4 steel with a doubler at the mounting holes. The strap and doubler are tapped.

I've never seen one with hardware like that. I supposed that doesn't mean it's not original, but it looks like they were drilled out for something else. I'm sure there are other guys on here more familiar with the older Playmasters like that who could tell you what the original hardware was. Ken Hash at ClsasicBilliards.net is one that comes to mind. Hell, chances are, he's got some. I have yet to run across an old obscure part that he doesn't have.
 
I'm sure you've thought of this, but I can't tell from the pic...has the bottom of the rail been routered out for those rail bolt plates? Do the screws countersink? I can say I've never seen that one before. Then again, I'd never seen adjustable leg levelers super glued to a tile floor before and I encountered that today. LOL

Uh, how would you propose stopping the table from sliding around? It was that or put it in the corner...:grin::grin:

Quit possibly the funniest dumb thing I've heard all day...
 
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