I've given up trying to restore and polish pool balls...

Bob 14:1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'll be the very first to say that I'm really, really anal-retentive about my table, cue, and pool balls. The Anniversary came with a nearly new set of Centennials.

For a few years I've been having great success using the Aramith twins; the Restorer to remove the ball to ball contact marks and the occasional pocket mark. I finalize the process with their Aramith Cleaner/Polish.

I play only straight, so maybe my average stroke strength is less than say, a 10 ball player, etc.

Four racks into my daily practice, most of the balls were already covered in the incessant dull contact marks. Since I polish the balls by hand; there goes another half hour shot to heck.

I stripped off everything with Meguiar's Scratch-X 2.0. It's a mild abrasive that got the balls to the point of actually squeaking in the rag. I played with the balls as is, and saw the same marks appearing after a few racks. No apparent change at all.

Sooo, I filled a clean and empty Lenscrafter lens cleaner, misting bottle with c. 50% water, and c. 50% 91% Isopropyl alcohol.

Over this week, I've seen no major difference in the balls' appearance over what I earlier observed with the laborious Aramith treatment. I shoot ten racks a day, and merely mist a good quality microfiber cloth and twist the balls in the rag for a few seconds each, before I end the day. Clearly, this in no way removes much, if any of the marks, but at least the balls are clean for my next session.

I have noticed no increase or decrease of throw, cling, or ball movement, so I believe the balls are now as free from any surface coatings as I can get them.

I'm totally over the above, never ending, cleaning ritual; save for when a miscue really does a number on my Measles ball, in which case I will use the Aramith products.

Interestingly enough, I found my Magic chalk marks to be very much less pronounced on the cue ball. Spinning it on the rail seems to remove it all, except for any miscue divots.

Anyone have a significantly better experience than I??? I'm guessing after a while, I may be forced to revert to the more thorough cleaning, but not doing it at least on a weekly basis is now likened to not hitting your head against a wall because it feels so darn good when you stop doing it. You??? :shrug:
 
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Manual hand polishing gets old real fast. To top it off Centennials lose their shine quickly and faster than any ball set I have used or owned. Do it right. Buy an automatic cleaner or make one(not hard to do)
 
Back in the day, Late 60s & early 70s, I used a furniture polish that had a very slight amount of lemon oil in it.

I used it sparingly & then wiped it as 'dry' as I could get them. I liked how they came out & how it lasted.

If memory serves me correctly it was Lemon Pledge.

Best 2 Ya.
 
Wanna See?

Ball Star & Diamond Blue Mist sprayed after being cleaned in the Ball Star......what a glorious sheen......and it's pretty durable.
I always maintain a back-up set of new Centennial pool balls on the shelf & basically, I sell the one in use after 18 mths. & get a new set.

Matt B.
 

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Back in the day, Late 60s & early 70s, I used a furniture polish that had a very slight amount of lemon oil in it.

I used it sparingly & then wiped it as 'dry' as I could get them. I liked how they came out & how it lasted.

If memory serves me correctly it was Lemon Pledge.

Best 2 Ya.

Does it remove the dull contact marks?

Wouldn't it juice the cue ball & alter overall ball movement?

As a teenager in the same period, I actually tried Armorall. I could darn near make a draw shot raise up billowing smoke as it peeled out backwards!
 
I too have the same issues. I have tried half a dozen different products, with both a ballstar and a diamond ball polisher. I still get the white contact marks regardless what I try.

What I find most interesting, I have never seen these occur on the balls at the pool halls, derby city etc. They use a diamond ball polisher also.

Is it something environmental in the basement?
 
I noticed the exact same issue with various Centennial sets since I collect and use nearly every ball set available from Brunswick, Aramith, Cyclop, and Vigma to name a few. Same for two of my friends and their Centennials. They always scuffed easily and looked old and beat up after a full days' play. So - it was time to experiment after noticing how the Cyclop ball sets looked 99% NEW after a full week of playing and not touching them once. No ball to ball scuff marks. Zero.

Try this ----- experiment ----- and report back your findings if you dare: polish up your Centennials. Play for an hour. After this first hour, take a close look at all of the object balls - pictures even. Now, replace the Centennial cue ball (or your measles ball if you must) with either of the two Cyclop cue ball styles available and polish the 1-15 Centennials again. Play for an hour using the Cyclop cue ball (which weighs the same 168-169 grams as the Centennials). Now take a look at your beloved Centennials. Pictures even. Notice a difference?

Thought so. Make your own conclusions.

Most of us play with the Centennials (because of the look/style/design) but we use the Cyclop diamond logo cue ball.

$.02
 
I respectfully beg to differ.....I think most of us either use the original Centennial cue ball that comes with a new set or else the Aramith Measles ball. I've yet to see a Cyclop set in the Fresno pool halls,. not saying there aren;t any ....just don't see'em. At the same time, there aren't an abundance of Centennial sets floating around either but there are always plenty of Measles cue balls and the Cyclop cue ball gets zero use in the Fresno pool halls. All my buddies that also play with Centennial sets use the Measles cue ball as I also do.

Matt B.
 
ball polisher

1-5 gallon bucket + 1 cheap orbital buffer from harbor freight + a piece of scrap carpet to line the upper rim of the bucket above the buffer + a bit of gorilla glue to glue the carpet to the bucket = a great ball polisher for about 20 bucks
 
I respectfully beg to differ.....I think most of us either use the original Centennial cue ball that comes with a new set or else the Aramith Measles ball. I've yet to see a Cyclop set in the Fresno pool halls,. not saying there aren;t any ....just don't see'em. At the same time, there aren't an abundance of Centennial sets floating around either but there are always plenty of Measles cue balls and the Cyclop cue ball gets zero use in the Fresno pool halls. All my buddies that also play with Centennial sets use the Measles cue ball as I also do.

Matt B.

My post was regarding the constant scuffing and thus cleaning that is predominantly found with the Centennials - and from our group of players and observations, seem to be caused mainly from the Centennial cue ball contacts with the Centennial object balls. Simply using a Cyclop cue ball in place of the original Centennial cue ball prevents a vast majority of the collision induced scuff marks - thus reducing cleaning, polishing and overall ball wear. From what we've noticed. Draw your own conclusions.
 
1-5 gallon bucket + 1 cheap orbital buffer from harbor freight + a piece of scrap carpet to line the upper rim of the bucket above the buffer + a bit of gorilla glue to glue the carpet to the bucket = a great ball polisher for about 20 bucks

Or you could line one of the Road King's saddlebags with carpet, throw the balls in with a little cleaner, and go for a ride!
:)
 
Buy a full set of Raschig balls (if you can find them). You won't need to clean them nearly as much.

I bought a full set of Raschigs when I was living in Germany in the AF because the Recreation Center on base had mis-matched ball sets. I held onto the Raschigs for so many years that I forgot I had them. When I finally got my home table, it came with a set of Aramith Super Pros. I used those for a while and bought a measles cue ball. The measles ball seemed to attract chalk like a cat in heat attracts tomcats, When cleaning pool balls every other day started getting old, I remembered I had the Raschigs I dug out that box and decided to give them a try.

That was about nine months ago and I can't remember the last time I cleaned them. Maybe once since then, but just a cursory wipe down.
 
Buy a full set of Raschig balls (if you can find them). You won't need to clean them nearly as much.



I bought a full set of Raschigs when I was living in Germany in the AF because the Recreation Center on base had mis-matched ball sets. I held onto the Raschigs for so many years that I forgot I had them. When I finally got my home table, it came with a set of Aramith Super Pros. I used those for a while and bought a measles cue ball. The measles ball seemed to attract chalk like a cat in heat attracts tomcats, When cleaning pool balls every other day started getting old, I remembered I had the Raschigs I dug out that box and decided to give them a try.



That was about nine months ago and I can't remember the last time I cleaned them. Maybe once since then, but just a cursory wipe down.


These are great. I've got one of their 9 ball sets. React as you post regarding cleaning and also look way cool
 
It's been said 100's of times already as well --- the Cyclop balls stay near pristine regarding scuff marks and chalk compared to any other manufacturer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It's been said 100's of times already as well --- the Cyclop balls stay near pristine regarding scuff marks and chalk compared to any other manufacturer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do we know why? Harder, softer, etc.? Unless they offer Cyclop balls in traditional colors, I simply couldn't play with 'em on an Anniversary. Centennials are the only ball I've played with since I was 16. Just sentimental, I guess. Also gotta have the darts! :wink:

I did, however, find that hand polishing got a bit easier for me. I use Scratch-X applied to two Meguiar's foam applicators, one in each hand. Much easier than using a terrycloth rag. Easier on my hands, and with one application I find I don't need the Restorer followed by the Polish. At least it cuts my muscle fatigue in half...:shrug:
 
I too have the same issues. I have tried half a dozen different products, with both a ballstar and a diamond ball polisher. I still get the white contact marks regardless what I try.

What I find most interesting, I have never seen these occur on the balls at the pool halls, derby city etc. They use a diamond ball polisher also.

Is it something environmental in the basement?

My Centennials and to a lesser extent my Aramith Tournaments both did the same when I was hand cleaning them. I bought a Diamond polisher and they stay shiny much longer now, I only use the cleaner, not the Aramith restorer. I also have a Cyclops set, the idea was that I would always have a fresh set of polished balls to use. Guess what? Instead I just have 3 sets of balls to polish if I want them shiny, so much for a set on the table and a set in the polisher and a set ready to use.:angry:
 
My Centennials and to a lesser extent my Aramith Tournaments both did the same when I was hand cleaning them. I bought a Diamond polisher and they stay shiny much longer now, I only use the cleaner, not the Aramith restorer. I also have a Cyclops set, the idea was that I would always have a fresh set of polished balls to use. Guess what? Instead I just have 3 sets of balls to polish if I want them shiny, so much for a set on the table and a set in the polisher and a set ready to use.:angry:

Yeah, Bob, I think we're all beating our heads against a wall here. :banghead:

Using the Scratch-X 2.0 and two yellow, foam Meguiar's applicator pads, I timed myself last night just for kicks. 22 minutes from marked up to a deep crystal clear. I'm guessing I can live with that.

Because

I'm retired and have loads of time

I just can't justify c.$400 American for a polisher

If I spent that sorta cash on a polisher, my wife would put me on the curb.

Would rather get a few minutes of isometrics, than be homeless.

Having just moved into a new town home, I no longer have any tools to fabricate a homemade polisher. It seems very straight forward, I just think I'd have some problems mounting the buffer.

For now I'm sticking to the Scratch-X. The Meguiar's Forum says it contains "a certain amount of silicone." As I've said, they play totally normally without any altered skid, cling, draw, etc. I was most happy that the Magic chalk hardly sticks to the cue ball. With the Aramith products, the Measles ball started looking more like a soccer ball with all of the residual chalk marks.
 
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