ivory and baby oil

Fliedout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Makers of ivory handgun grips recommend applying baby oil occasionally to prevent cracking. Is there any reason not to use it on ivory ferrules, joints, butt caps, etc.?
 
Fliedout said:
Makers of ivory handgun grips recommend applying baby oil occasionally to prevent cracking. Is there any reason not to use it on ivory ferrules, joints, butt caps, etc.?
It's a good idea. I've been doing it for years.

TommyT
 
Fliedout said:
Makers of ivory handgun grips recommend applying baby oil occasionally to prevent cracking. Is there any reason not to use it on ivory ferrules, joints, butt caps, etc.?

buttcaps are varnished
 
Do you think mineral oil might be better? It was recommended to me for use on opal jewelry. I would think baby oil would have unwanted scents and maybe other less desirable things added to it.
 
> I've heard this for years,and agree with it to a certain extent. Personally,all I've ever used on my ivory ferrules is a carnauba wax of one brand or another. For the last 5 years or so,I've been using the same can of Meguiars #26 High Tech Yellow,before that it was the Mother's brand. I feel that a wax such as this or the Karseal,which is the most common cue-specific product available,is a better solution when dealing with cues that are out and about so to speak. Chances are,your cues,unless you are one of the fortunate ones that own more cues than what they actually play with regularly,are being used more than a gun with ivory grips would be. Ivory grips are a much larger piece of stock than what is used in cues as inlays,ferrules,and butt caps,which are,except for the ferrule,protected by the finish except for the end grain or joint facing,and may take a little more moisture to keep them from cracking,so baby oil or a similar product is probably not a bad idea if they are not used for long periods of time. It sounds like this is a collector-type handgun,since practically no one that uses a handgun regularly like a police officer or competitive shooter would choose ivory for reasons of wear and ergonomics,just about all of these guys opt for a grip that gives them a comfort or performance edge. Just to be sure,I'd contact the gunsmith and see what he recommends. Tommy D.
 
Oil, etc.

I am trained as a gemologist and I can tell you that it isn't a good idea to put oils on ivory. Ivory is porous. Oils will tend to be absorbed into the ivory and carry dirt, dust, chalk, etc. along for the ride. I don't think it will structurally damage the ivory but it wil most likely change the color (maybe only in spots) over time. Also I think it's probably not a great idea to get oils on the cue shaft or the tip, which would be unavoidable if you oil your ivory ferrule.

The best way to keep ivory in good shape is to not expose it to very hot or very cold temperatures (like in the trunk of your car, the attic, etc.) and seal it from time to time with a good quality wax, like carnuba. Also, while we're on the subject, oiling opals is a waste of time. Opals are a natural silica glass and they contain moisture of different types. This is what gives them those attractive colors. Opals dehydrate over time from the inside out, which is why they typically develop lots of small fractures. Putting oils on the outside doesn't achieve anything. Probably more than you really wanted to know.
 
pawnmon said:
I am trained as a gemologist and I can tell you that it isn't a good idea to put oils on ivory. Ivory is porous. Oils will tend to be absorbed into the ivory and carry dirt, dust, chalk, etc. along for the ride. I don't think it will structurally damage the ivory but it wil most likely change the color (maybe only in spots) over time. Also I think it's probably not a great idea to get oils on the cue shaft or the tip, which would be unavoidable if you oil your ivory ferrule.

The best way to keep ivory in good shape is to not expose it to very hot or very cold temperatures (like in the trunk of your car, the attic, etc.) and seal it from time to time with a good quality wax, like carnuba. Also, while we're on the subject, oiling opals is a waste of time. Opals are a natural silica glass and they contain moisture of different types. This is what gives them those attractive colors. Opals dehydrate over time from the inside out, which is why they typically develop lots of small fractures. Putting oils on the outside doesn't achieve anything. Probably more than you really wanted to know.

The best oil for opal is your own natural body oil. I live in Brazil an run an Opal mine in the Amazon. I'm American. :)
 
Every time someone mentions baby oil it reminds me of Korea and the stripped down water bed. If you aint tried it, you don't know what you're missing!! If you need more info PM me :D
 
Been told - and shown microscopic pics of an Ivory Ferrule - by a IMHO great cue maker who indicated that while Ivory is quite a porous material, it has densely packed but very shallow pores. This is why it's so easy to clean off cue chalk, maintain and preserve its beautiful bright whiteness over long periods of time.

Dunno' 'bout using baby oil.. common sense is it's not good for the tip or shaft.
 
Last edited:
Baby and mineral oil are great for playing pool! I pour about half of a bottle on both of my hands and my cue to keep it slick. Sure the oil gets everywhere and ruins the cloth and my cue, but at least my stroke is smooth!
 
cuetechasaurus said:
Baby and mineral oil are great for playing pool! I pour about half of a bottle on both of my hands and my cue to keep it slick. Sure the oil gets everywhere and ruins the cloth and my cue, but at least my stroke is smooth!


wtfiswrongwithyou.jpg
 
Back
Top