Been there, done that! It looks the same no matter where my head is.
John Schmidt's and Corey Deuel's comments on aiming systems
- Thread starter PoolSharkAllen
- Start date
Been there, done that! It looks the same no matter where my head is.
So, you are saying that one of these systems may be the answer?
It's about all I have left! ?:sorry:
Aim the center of the CB at the center of the OB, does the OB go straight ahead for you or does it go off at an angle?
For the test pj is requesting, the box could not be removed until after the CB is struck. Otherwise, the shooter could do some fine tuning by feel after the box is lifted but before the CB is struck.
Shaky,
There's a practical limit to what we can help you with on AZB. The best thing you can do is find a good instructor who can make sure that you have good fundamentals and work with you on various topics like aiming.
This test is not much different than shooting with your eyes closed. Once you aim, you get down on the shot, close your eyes, then shoot and pocket the ball.
I do this parlor trick all the time -- it never fails to impress the newbies. :wink:
That's right. It would be easiest with a curtain of some very light but opaque material that could be lifted to show the OB and then lowered again to hide the OB without impeding the CB.
pj
chgo
You could make a video of yourself playing and post it in the Ask The Instructor Forum. Your problem might not be just aiming, and you might get some helpful advice.
Getting down on the shot before closing your eyes makes a critical difference.
pj
chgo
Initially, with CTE/Pro One, feel does play a big part in it, IMO. However, once you have the correct visual perception's and truly "get it", your visuals, stance, stroke, etc... become almost robotic and mechanical in nature. It breeds all around constistency.
Starting at CTE and cutting the OB to a pocket on the left:
If a ½ tip cue offset to the side of the center of the CB is used prepivot, the angle created (line from the center of the CB to the edge of the OB and the line from the center of the CB to the new target spot) postpivot will always be the same.
If this ½ tip offset works when the CB and OB are close together, then it will not work when the CB and OB are far apart for the CB will be sent (at the same angle) to the side/farther away from the postpivot target spot . If the CB and OB are too far away from each other, you will miss the OB altogether.
Assuming that the comfortable bridge distance is maintained, say 12”, then the ½ tip must be les than ½ when the CB and OB are farther apart in order to hit the intended target spot on the OB - as when the shot was correct and the CB and OB were close together (as above).
If the ½ tip offset is to be maintained, then to decrease the included angle (described above) one must move the bridge hand back away from the CB and back from the original 12” location.
These two variables, tip offset or bridge distance, makes diagramming CTE impossible for the same shot (cutting the OB to the pocket on the left) at different distances between the CB and OB.
For his manual CTE, which uses a 1/2-tip offset, Stan recommends bridge lengths varying from about 5" to 9" depending upon the CB/OB separation. [If the two balls are extremely close, a "very short" bridge length is needed.]
Just a nitpick, but I consider fractional ball aiming to be a form of ghostball aiming; you're just focusing in on the edge of the ghostball instead of its center. More generally, I consider it to be a form of ghostball aiming if you key in on any element of the shot such that you can derive or construct the ghostball from that element, such as the contact point.
Okay, who cares? No one, but I'm just trying to distinguish aiming methods which are ghostball based from those which dispense, or claim to dispense with it altogether.
No, it isn't beyond the realm...
AtLarge, I'm not sure to what extent you're "into" CTE, but I think you're an excellent go-between/translator for the two contentious factions.
Jim
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Thanks for filling me in on that bit of info that was probably in the DVD that I don't have - it makes sense to me, but a 5" bridge is too close (for me) to the CB to see the center line of the shaft for aiming.
Excuse me, you don't need to see the end of the shaft for aiming for you only need to aim it's tip at the center of the CB after pivoting.
Is there a graph to show what distance from 5" to 9" to apply for each distance between the CB and OB in the DVD?
Thanks.
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Recommended bridge distances are listed on the third screen of the Glossary on Stan's dvd. Dr. Dave has also listed them here: http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/aiming.html#ProOne
Thanks for the llink.
CB-OB distance > 2' about 2' about 1' < 1' very close
bridge length 8-9" 7-8" 6-7" 5-6" very short
That then can be diagrammed with a graph and verified by reverse engineering.
If I make a good stroke, the ball object ball will go to the right. I have been working with Scott Lee, and now I am making more good strokes.
The problem is that when I miss, I made a good stroke that I aimed wrong.
Sorry about the hijack, but it's not really a hijack. It's about aiming systems and do they work. I'm just trying to figure out if CTE , Pro One, or SEE could possibly solve this issue by getting me lined up better?
If you can cover the cue ball with a box and make the shot, there might be something with alignment there that I'm not doing correctly now.
Or do you think I would still do the same thing?
Am I making any sense?