Joint Type?
- Thread starter Bardtj
- Start date
Flat face wood to wood 3/8x10 pin is my favorite.
Radial wood to wood is a close second.
You get more feedback though the hit with those and a solid shaft connection.
Radial wood to wood is a close second.
You get more feedback though the hit with those and a solid shaft connection.
Personally, I prefer the Schuler joint. I think Ray did all the right things years ago, and only in recent years have cuemakers (as a whole) understood the importance of the fit.
The Lambros joint systems I put right up there with the Schuler joint as well. And a good argument can be made of Mike's joint being superior.
As the newer cues (last 10 years or so) with big pin flat-face have addressed the fit, they are all so much better than 20 years ago (as a whole industry). But, I think they all still fall short of the Schuler and Lambros designs.
That's not to say I don't love the big pin flat-face, because that's what I normally get on cues that aren't named Schuler or Lambros.
Freddie <~~~ in my own wrong opinion
I know I'm probably out of the current mainstream opinion on this, but I love the stiff hit feel that an old school stainless steel joint gives you. I also like how they look.
Currently, all but one of my cues are 5/16x14 SS piloted. I like cues with a forward balance (19.5-20.5"). While flat faced cues can be made to provide a forward balance, in my experience, SS joints more consistently have the balance I prefer.
I have owned cues with other joints. From the cues I have owned and played, I cannot say there is a consistent impact on playability based upon joint type.
I have owned cues with other joints. From the cues I have owned and played, I cannot say there is a consistent impact on playability based upon joint type.
3/8-11 brass pin, wood to wood.
Does it matter?
I have both an old school piloted 5/16 14 and a 3/8 10 and I have been told that the piloted hits stiffer but I honestly cant tell the difference. I picked up a Lucasi with the quick release the other day and shot lights out so I think the characteristics of the joint are much more subtle than everyone thinks.
I have both an old school piloted 5/16 14 and a 3/8 10 and I have been told that the piloted hits stiffer but I honestly cant tell the difference. I picked up a Lucasi with the quick release the other day and shot lights out so I think the characteristics of the joint are much more subtle than everyone thinks.
I've enjoyed the hit of 3/8x10 and radial flat-faced wood-to-wood joints as well as 5/16x14 ss piloted. I can't say they felt the same, but they were different cues so I can't say the differences I was feeling was in the joint either.
I don't believe anyone could discern the difference between 3/8x10, radial, and 3/8x11 pins in a flat-faced wood-to-wood configuration. Not so sure about the jump to a 5/16x14 piloted stainless joint though...that seems to me like it would make a difference but I've heard the story of the blind test so I wouldn't commit to it. If I had the funds I'd love to order a pair of simple cues from a maker with the same exact specs except for the pin and joint style. Would be interesting to get them both, cover the joints, and compare.
I don't believe anyone could discern the difference between 3/8x10, radial, and 3/8x11 pins in a flat-faced wood-to-wood configuration. Not so sure about the jump to a 5/16x14 piloted stainless joint though...that seems to me like it would make a difference but I've heard the story of the blind test so I wouldn't commit to it. If I had the funds I'd love to order a pair of simple cues from a maker with the same exact specs except for the pin and joint style. Would be interesting to get them both, cover the joints, and compare.
Freddie, I love Ray's joint design also.
another here for FF 3/8-10, but my players have Ivory joints.
The joint needs to be ivory...............and flat-faced (big pin 3/8) prefererably..............piloted ivory is acceptable, especially if the joint is a PM piloted version. I have a new cue due shortly and a 2nd new cue due 6 - 8 weeks thereafter and both cues have flat-faced ivory joints (3/8 x 11) pin. In my opinion, it provides the best feeling cue joint of any available sans one...........which is a flat faced wood to wood cue joint. But I'll still stick with ivory for its great look in a cue design as much its superior feel over steel, brass, Juma and phenolic cue joints, and ivory collars over steel.....ugh!
Matt B.
Matt B.
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I guess I must be oblivious to feel a difference due to joint type. My favorite cue I ever had was a one piece cue I bought ($10) from the pool room I frequented when I was young. I had a relationship with that cue. Can't remember the make (Brunswick) but it was 19 oz. I lost my friend many years ago during a move. Not sure who took it but my wife was happy. (Suspect #1).
That being said, I now own 2 19 oz. Sneaky Pete Predators which utilize the uni-loc steel joint. The sticks are straight and I can't tell what kind of joint I have when I play. I guess I am use to and like the weight distribution. I bought a Lucasi with a Uni-Loc joint for my break cue. Again, I can't tell other than the weight distribution is different than my Predators.
Sometimes when I sneak into the pool hall without my cues because my wife would know I still use the house cues. Most are now two piece house cues. I still can't tell the difference. I do joke once in a while that I have the feel of a blacksmith.
I am sure if these experts say there is a difference, there is. I can't tell. Am I nuts or not at a level of player who could tell. This game is so mental if one thinks something helps, ie. name your material joint, it probably does help.
Not sure this will help you, but it is my view that I can't tell.
PS - I have had no problems with my Uni-Loc joints and they have always locked up tight.
That being said, I now own 2 19 oz. Sneaky Pete Predators which utilize the uni-loc steel joint. The sticks are straight and I can't tell what kind of joint I have when I play. I guess I am use to and like the weight distribution. I bought a Lucasi with a Uni-Loc joint for my break cue. Again, I can't tell other than the weight distribution is different than my Predators.
Sometimes when I sneak into the pool hall without my cues because my wife would know I still use the house cues. Most are now two piece house cues. I still can't tell the difference. I do joke once in a while that I have the feel of a blacksmith.
I am sure if these experts say there is a difference, there is. I can't tell. Am I nuts or not at a level of player who could tell. This game is so mental if one thinks something helps, ie. name your material joint, it probably does help.
Not sure this will help you, but it is my view that I can't tell.
PS - I have had no problems with my Uni-Loc joints and they have always locked up tight.
I don't really believe anyone could tell what type of joint and/or pin they are using without already knowing it.