joints and finish question ...

WilleeCue

WilleeCue

The Barefoot Cuemaker
Silver Member
Before finishing a cue it is sanded and the joint fits flat and flush.
The finish when sprayed on has a tendency to move away from the edge of the joint and slightly round it off.
When the cue is wet sanded after finishing the joint no longer is flush but has a slight grove do to the rounded off edges.

I see some production cues with a nice flush finish at the joint edges.
Are the joint surfaces cut back a bit after finishing to get that kind of fit?
Because of the taper wouldn't cutting back the finished joint faces enough to remove the rounded edge change the diameter of the joint? (smaller on the shaft - larger on the butt)

Here is a photo of a cue after finish.
Before the finish the joint edges were so well matched they were barely visible.



Any ideas on how I can eliminate that slight grove and achieve a flat finish where the joint edges meet?
 
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When I cut my shafts, I leave a straight taper on the ends for about 1/4 inch or so, that way if I have to reface them, they still fit.
 
WilleeCue said:
Before finishing a cue it is sanded and the joint fits flat and flush.
The finish when sprayed on has a tendency to move away from the edge of the joint and slightly round it off.
When the cue is wet sanded after finishing the joint no longer is flush but has a slight grove do to the rounded off edges.

I see some production cues with a nice flush finish at the joint edges.
Are the joint surfaces cut back a bit after finishing to get that kind of fit?
Because of the taper wouldn't cutting back the finished joint faces enough to remove the rounded edge change the diameter of the joint? (smaller on the shaft - larger on the butt)

Here is a photo of a cue after finish.
Before the finish the joint edges were so well matched they were barely visible.



Any ideas on how I can eliminate that slight grove and achieve a flat finish where the joint edges meet?
Click to expand...
dennis dieckman bevels the edges intentional
he says it will help prevent the finish from getting chipped off
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
Are you spraying & sanding the Q when it is together or apart?...JER
Click to expand...

They are sanded when joined and that leaves a barely visible joint line.
Then they are sprayed separately.
The finish is then wet sanded while joined.


I have tried spraying them while joined.
Rapping the cue against my hand near the joint would cause the finish right at the joint line to snap but often it would not break cleanly and chip.
 
WilleeCue said:
They are sanded when joined and that leaves a barely visible joint line.
Then they are sprayed separately.
The finish is then wet sanded while joined.


I have tried spraying them while joined.
Rapping the cue against my hand near the joint would cause the finish right at the joint line to snap but often it would not break cleanly and chip.
Click to expand...
I have tried spraying them while joined.

Rapping the cue against my hand near the joint would cause the finish right at the joint line to snap but often it would not break cleanly and chip. had that happen to me before also
solved that problem by seperating them BEFORE the finsih dries completely
i let it setup for maybe 10 to 15 minutes, then unscrew one thread or so
 
Willee,
Having that slight radius is a GOOD thing. The smaller the better but that radius protects the finish from chipping against itself. I've written in at least one thread in the last year on this very subject.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=64747&highlight=joint+finish

Post #6

The joint of a cue is a flex point. When two opposing razor sharp edges are forced to press against each other, something is going to give. In this case the finish is put into 'shear' and lifts from the surface of the joint. I happen to agree whole-heartedly with Mr. Dieckman on this issue.

If you'd still like to pursue a 'no groove' finish across the joint it's very easily done. As you're completing your shooting of finish, apply just a little extra in this area on both the shaft & handle. Once you have the finish cured, assemble the cue and spin it as one piece. Block sand the joint down to a thou. or two above your desired diameter and polish. You're done. Over the next year the 'pinch-down' effect will take place and the joint diameter should be close to perfect.

BTW, that slight radius you have in your pic is in my opinion, just about perfect.
 
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KJ Cues said:
Willee,
Having that slight radius is a GOOD thing. The smaller the better but that radius protects the finish from chipping against itself. I've written in at least one thread in the last year on this very subject.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=64747&highlight=joint+finish

Post #6

The joint of a cue is a flex point. When two opposing razor sharp edges are forced to press against each other, something is going to give. In this case the finish is put into 'shear' and lifts from the surface of the joint. I happen to agree whole-heartedly with Mr. Dieckman on this issue.

If you'd still like to pursue a 'no groove' finish across the joint it's very easily done. As you're completing your shooting of finish, apply just a little extra in this area on both the shaft & handle. Once you have the finish cured, assemble the cue and spin it as one piece. Block sand the joint down to a thou. or two above your desired diameter and polish. You're done. Over the next year the 'pinch-down' effect will take place and the joint diameter should be close to perfect.

BTW, that slight radius you have in your pic is in my opinion, just about perfect.
Click to expand...


I happen to agree whole-heartedly with Mr. Dieckman on this issue.
me too
i sand together with a block as you said,
then seperate just a smidge
then bevel slightly with a piece of 400 folded in two to get both edges beveled the same (hopefully)
 
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