I use to do the same thing. Dennis Searing once recommended the process on here at a time that I had an issue with a few pop offs. I have hit with a couple of of His cues before, and really admire his work, the only other cue that I have had the pleasure of hitting with that felt as good to me was a Paul Mottey, so I have much respect for anything that he would suggest.
Not that I remember him saying this, but what I took from this method was not only did It help with the wicking action, but that It also helped to more easily sand the tip to perfectly flat surface.
Anyhow I only had this issue on one or 2 shafts, and they were the same 2 customer shafts. I had tipped the exact same type of shafts with no issues, just these particular 2 customer shafts had ferrules that seemed waxier then the other of the same make, and same ferrule type. These were only 2 shafts out of probably 100's that I had done around that time, but It was still unacceptable to me, so I used this method and even used it at times when I had no particular reason to do It. I found that mostly when I did this It was to ease the sanding process though, and end up with a flatter glue surface, because I had some tips that did not seem to sand perfectly even. For whatever reason I do not have this problem anymore.
Anyhow this was My experience and everyone's is different, but when I had one pop off, I examined It very closely, and usually It turned out that the wicking issue was actually not my issue at all. There was glue on the tip side, the break down was on the ferrule side, and the issue was with the glue not wicking or sticking to It.
Now days I have learned to spot this ahead of time, sometimes I can tell by the type of ferrule material if there will be a possible issue, but one thing I always do before gluing, is to lay the the tip on the ferrule face, apply pressure straight against It and try to move it to the side, If It grips well then I'm usually good to go, if it wants to slide off too easily, then I know there is a issue with the face of either the tip or ferrule not being perfectly flat, and I work on one or the other until I get the desired grip that I want. Sometimes the difference is so minimal, that you can not feel any rocking or see any other indication that things are not perfectly flat, but the above mentioned method usually tells the truth for me. If both of those fail to give the grip that I desire then It may be due to the type of ferrule material, and I may have to resort to cross hatching the face of the ferrule to get it to grip, although I would say that it is only the case in well under 5% of the time. Actually even less then that. It is rare that I have to do that, but It does help when left with no other alternative.
Like I mentioned everyone is different in what works for them, so if It works for you then I suppose It's for the best, and I can not find fault in that, but I am curious are you sure that the It's the wicking action that helps, or is It possible that It's helping you to achieve a flatter gluing surface? In My case I believe that was what was taking place when I used the method, because I rarely use it anymore, and My results are the same even with Mooris which I believe were the topic of the original discussion back when. I'm not saying That I never have it happen, but it's very rare on a customer cue, most any issue I would have would more then likely turn up on house cues, but usually that is a result of the way they are abused.
Greg
I'll sand the tip flat on my granite, wipe it down with a clean paper towel, then hit it with thin. I can see the glue get sucked up in the pores and appear to raise fibers on the surface. Then I sand again and hit one more time with cyano(normally) and the glue sits. When it sits, I shake it off and blow it dry. Sand a last time on granite and I can see that the gluing surface is true.