Kamui Tips Q/A

I appreciate you taking the time to see what users actually think. I like the tips but don’t use them because of the glazing issue. I do hit the balls a bit harder as well.
And I appreciate you seeing my intentions! Haha It's almost guaranteed to glaze if you're a heavy hitter. Something I don't know is if it happens more to brown black. I imagine more with black since it's made for more action on the cue ball with less effort.
 
ive never had a tip g;aze but some after twenty or more years do get harder and hold less chalk and need to be spit on overnight to soften up.

the indians used spit to soften leather long before we came around and tried to wipe out their civilization. the eskimos still do.
 
since you are some kind of expert on tips and we are just giving player responses. so dont get mad take it as it is.
your customers decide your sales.

but i want to know how your tips can create different types or more spin than another tip. as you implied earlier.
I'm not trippin'! Not mad at all. I'm trying to understand how much of what I know is general knowledge. How much of what I'm saying applies to most people and how much has to do with the product itself. To answer your question to the best of my ability, Kamui black tips are made with with more elasticity. This allows the tip to have a longer contact with the ball. The longer the tip is in contact with the ball, the more spin is generated with less effort. The point has been debated to death whether or not you get more spin with SS VS H, I really think it depends on the player, but supposedly it should be a lot more spin with a SS. That's why Venom and other trickshot artists will use a SS.
 
I'm not trippin'! Not mad at all. I'm trying to understand how much of what I know is general knowledge. How much of what I'm saying applies to most people and how much has to do with the product itself. To answer your question to the best of my ability, Kamui black tips are made with with more elasticity. This allows the tip to have a longer contact with the ball. The longer the tip is in contact with the ball, the more spin is generated with less effort. The point has been debated to death whether or not you get more spin with SS VS H, I really think it depends on the player, but supposedly it should be a lot more spin with a SS. That's why Venom and other trickshot artists will use a SS.
Also to comment on spit, that is an excellent mention! Though I would not typically use it on the center of the tips, it is something you can do to seal the sides of the tips. Spit and a little leather burnisher.
 
thanks for your answer i cant believe its right though.

the spit thing is true we used that years back on the side of tips. but soaking the whole tip softens it up.
some cue repair guys use super glue on the sides. i cant think that is good. but it looks great.
 
The last two Kamui black softs, I had installed, delaminated at some point. I am still using the second one. It was an easy fix but was unexpected and did require losing a considerable amount of tip.


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Delamination does happen sometimes, but it is very rare(NOT IMPOSSIBLE) that it'll happen with an Authentic tip. If you take nothing else from this discussion, when purchasing a Kamui tip either ask for the serial number, or check it yourself if you purchased directly. Check it at kamuibrand.com/sn and that'll tell you if it's real or not, it should tell you what type of tip and how many times it has been checked. Counterfeits have been a SERIOUS issue. They don't play the same, they delaminate, and they mushroom like crazy. If a Kamui costs less than $20 it's likely fake, of course some will charge full price. -.-
 
I question that to a point. You are saying that abrasive chalk/tools causes the tip to glaze? I would be inclined to say that the opposite is true.

In my experience - I played with Kamui Clear Black tips and Master chalk for say 11 or 12 of the last 15 years. I don't recall having glazing issues in those days. I scuffed with one of these about 1-2 times a month. Since then, I switched to Kamui Roku and experienced glazing and had to scuff far more often than I thought necessary. I went through multiple Clear Black tips without improvement and switched to other brands like Zan and Taom. With those, I might scuff once a month and I play at least 3 days a week.

I just got a Whitten and it's a great tip. That just might be what I select going forward.

One thought is that I switched from wood to CF about the time I switched to the Kamui Roku, but I don't see how that would cause a specific tip to glaze faster given others do not.
Please bear with me, I'm looking into it at the same time, but also giving you the info I've been armed with. Like I said I'm not saying that is the only factor. Or that if you use masters you're guaranteed to glaze the tip, but I HAVE SEEN it happen. In Vegas someone will come up with a Kamui all upset that it's super hard. 9 times out of ten they say they tip picked it and use masters or some equivalent. I tell them, they get a new tip and some roku and don't tear it up! They come back two/three more days in the tournament with no issues. When I brought this up to my boss he said I probably shouldn't encourage the term "glaze" as it is more of the chalk "polishing" the tip. Tip picking is poking holes in the tip, the chalk is getting into the layers and having a polishing/oxidizing effect and making the tip harder. I don't think switching from wood to carbon fiber necessarily would change the glazing, unless it made you start hitting harder or playing very differently, which isn't impossible. I would consider trying the kamui athlete tip though if you were wanting/able to try stuff out on the CF shaft. One thing I didn't think to mention before is there's also the manner of how someone chalks. Are you striking, or grinding, or painting it on? I think since you've been playing 15 years, you are likely more experienced and properly chalk, so I'm not really questioning that for you specifically as much as anyone that may see my response. 😅
 
thanks for your answer i cant believe its right though.

the spit thing is true we used that years back on the side of tips. but soaking the whole tip softens it up.
some cue repair guys use super glue on the sides. i cant think that is good. but it looks great.
I've never heard of them using super glue! That sounds like a terrible idea to me. The whole purpose of the clear pad is to keep the glue from oxidizing the tip over time. Spit or Tokonole is the only things besides chalk that should touch the tip! The black tip DEFINITELY gives more spin than the brown tip. This is why some prefer the brown medium so they can hit consistently with more precision rather than focusing on spin with low effort.
 
My boss said scuffing before every day of play should be the norm. Of course he is thinking of something really fine like the gator grip or dragon tongue. Given we don't have those for the foreseeable future, someone in here mentioned a 400 grit sand paper. That is also highly recommended. But you don't want anything too crazy. As far as tips with clear pads popping off, that is typically installer error. We have so many clears put on during the Vegas tournaments without issue. We have a local guy that just started installing. He wouldn't touch clears because they kept popping off when he'd put them on by hand. He started doing it with his lathe and not overdoing the glue or scoring the pad and now it doesn't ever pop off. You want to install using the loctite professional liquid for the clear and gel for the standard. Just drop some glue in the center and let it spread evenly when you push them together.
I would always lightly scuff the bottom of the tip and the top of the ferrule before applying clue (Tweetens). I would apply a light coat of glue to both surfaces. Then let the glue set up a little before putting it on the cue. Next apply pressure using either a strong ruɓber band or the weight of the cue.

Leave it this way overnight and then clean up the edges and shape/scuff the tip. My tips never came off!

P.S. I was Dennis' tip repair man when he was winning all those tournaments.
 
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Also to comment on spit, that is an excellent mention! Though I would not typically use it on the center of the tips, it is something you can do to seal the sides of the tips. Spit and a little leather burnisher.
Yep, that's last thing before playing with a new tip. Apply a little spit all the way around and then burnish with a matchbook cover or soft leather.
 
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thanks for your answer i cant believe its right though.

the spit thing is true we used that years back on the side of tips. but soaking the whole tip softens it up.
some cue repair guys use super glue on the sides. i cant think that is good. but it looks great.
Bad idea to use super glue anywhere on your cue!
 
My boss said scuffing before every day of play should be the norm. Of course he is thinking of something really fine like the gator grip or dragon tongue. Given we don't have those for the foreseeable future, someone in here mentioned a 400 grit sand paper. That is also highly recommended. But you don't want anything too crazy. As far as tips with clear pads popping off, that is typically installer error. We have so many clears put on during the Vegas tournaments without issue. We have a local guy that just started installing. He wouldn't touch clears because they kept popping off when he'd put them on by hand. He started doing it with his lathe and not overdoing the glue or scoring the pad and now it doesn't ever pop off. You want to install using the loctite professional liquid for the clear and gel for the standard. Just drop some glue in the center and let it spread evenly when you push them together.
I’ve installed several clear tips by hand, they never popped off, but I do find the clear tips (especially the hard types both black snd tan) to sound awful upon hitting the cue ball
 
thanks for your answer i cant believe its right though.

the spit thing is true we used that years back on the side of tips. but soaking the whole tip softens it up.
some cue repair guys use super glue on the sides. i cant think that is good. but it looks great.
I use the top of the rail on a Valley, seems to work well for me.
 
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