Keeping your Shaft SMOOTH as GLASS

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bruce S. de Lis
  • Start date Start date
Bruce S. de Lis said:
that blue paper stuff from 3M that is used to sand silicon chips WHAT IS IT CALLED, and where do you buy it?????
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A friend of mine used to use it. He would get it from work. He no longer uses it though I believe it is just a plastic piece of sand-like paper. He stopped after he noticed after about a year or so, particles started releasing from his cue shaft. He inspected it and found out it came from the sheet.

If you just want plain, just use a piece of leather but make sure that the shaft is very clean first, burnishing will embed any particles into the shaft.
 
pete lafond said:
A friend of mine used to use it. He would get it from work. He no longer uses it though I believe it is just a plastic piece of sand-like paper. He stopped after he noticed after about a year or so, particles started releasing from his cue shaft. He inspected it and found out it came from the sheet. .
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i think he was rubbing too hard, and the overheating might have "melted" crud off the plastic. you can get the smooth shaft without burnishing so intensely. this "crud stuff" happens even with micromesh if i rub too hard, which is the fine cloth i use that goes up to 8000 grit.
 
Last edited:
bruce,,,,,here's the info from the label on the plastic sleeve.......

3M
imperial lapping film
a/o 3.0 mil sheets

grade: 9mic.........mineral: a/o
backing: 3.0 mil
size: 8 1/2" x 11"
invoice: aim64345.........run: ia6-4
sheets 50

this is blue colored but there was some brown film that was even finer.
 
After each session of play I wipe the cue with lighter fluid and then burnish with leather. My shafts are extremely slick....always.
 
bruin70 said:
i think he was rubbing too hard, and the overheating might have "melted" crud off the plastic. you can get the smooth shaft without burnishing so intensely. this happens even with micromesh, which is the fine cloth i use that goes up to 8000 grit.
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I understand that the concept behind the plastic rubbing papers is to get it hot so it does melt and in turn fills the pores in the shaft. It is a sanding and filling process. This is how it gets the glassy look to it, the plastic is a filler. Any way why not just use leather? I think your cue shaft will at least maintain its diameter longer. The particles that feel rough on your cue shaft are two things, 1. the wax from cues mixed with chalk you pick up from the table and 2. stuff that got embedded into the shaft from burnishing when either it was not clean when burnished or material used to smoothen the shaft starts to pop out. I honestly almost never feel any grit on my cue shaft at all. If I feel a tiny bit, I just swipe with a cotton towel once. If tables are really dirty, I may have to wipe it once every game but this is rare.
 
pete lafond said:
I understand that the concept behind the plastic rubbing papers is to get it hot so it does melt and in turn fills the pores in the shaft. It is a sanding and filling process. This is how it gets the glassy look to it, the plastic is a filler.
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but i don't think the imperial lapping film was intended to finish cue shafts:):)

i only use the stuff once ,,,,and maybe every other year after that. but in between it's all just wiping with a soft terry cloth every chance i get, before, during, and after play.
 
bruin70 said:
but i don't think the imperial lapping film was intended to finish cue shafts:):)

i only use the stuff once ,,,,and maybe every other year after that. but in between it's all just wiping with a soft terry cloth every chance i get, before, during, and after play.
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If you are using just once, you should not have a problem.
 
I use shark oil, a q-wiz, and q-wax.

But what gives less friction than anything I've found is a glove.

LWW
 
I don't understand?

JimS said:
After each session of play I wipe the cue with lighter fluid and then burnish with leather. My shafts are extremely slick....always.
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Now that Pete has brought us SlipStic - WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT TO TRY ANYTHING ELSE?

I have both - the Cleaner & Conditioner and it is EVERYTHING he says it is.
Best cue product I have ever seen and I have been playing for over 44 years.

TY & GL
 
LastTwo said:
Right now I am having a huge problem keeping my shaft clean and smooth during play. Even when they have the AC running in the poolroom my hands always seem to get at least a little sweaty, and as a result my shaft gets really dirty and sticky. Before every match I wipe down my shaft/wash my hands, and that used to last me until at least halfway thru the match, now that doesn't even last me thru the first game. I have to resort to using powder, which I really hate. Does anyone have any suggestions on ways to keep my cue from getting sticky during the match? Thanks
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I just bring a damp towel and wipe my hands and cue between shots(usually not needed), games, or matches as needed. I hate using powder. Although I have a rosin bag in my case as a backup in case I'm ever shooting pool in a hall that likes to make their hall feel like your shooting pool in hell so you will buy more drinks. If theres not a bathroom close buy, I dampen the cloth with a water bottle as the water on the towel evaporates.

I also use a Mr. Clean Magic eraser when the shaft startes to get blue coloration. Wipe it down after with a damp towel, wipe with a dry towel, and then burnish with a clean white piece of paper. I find no improvement over using a dirty dollar bill of any denomination versus a regular piece of copy paper. I've heard the higher the demonination the better it works though :)
I've used the magic eraser for a while and nothing has been taken off the diameter of my shaft and it stays in great shape.
The magic eraser really is amazing.
 
JimS said:
After each session of play I wipe the cue with lighter fluid and then burnish with leather. My shafts are extremely slick....always.
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Just don't burnish it to fast. or shoot with a cigarette. :)
 
I too suffer from sweaty/sticky hands syndrom.

I can't play when my stick gets grippy in the stroke....

I carry a bottle of Rubbing Alcohol in my case and a rag and wipe the stick down constantly, as well as wash my hands often.

For keeping the cue clean the alcohol works excellent, even takes off an Chalk powder even though I specifically only use brown to not stain my shaft.

I also have that Micro Film for fine tuning my shaft, it comes in green, blue and yellow. All I ever need is the yellow since my sticks are always keep clean and ding free, if I can help it...

-Jedi
 
Keep your hands clean! I don't burnish my shaft it gets sticky easier and you trap gunk in the pores (IMO) I use a white face cloth dampen half of it and zap it in the microwave until steaming and wipe.
 
Bruce S. de Lis said:


Anyone use “Shark Oil that is sold commercially to keep SHAFTS as Smooth as Glass, or have you found other Products that work 110% Better WITHOUT Removing Diameter from your Shafts.

Suggestions appreciated....
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I tried that new snowboard wax Its not a wax I forget the name it begins with a Z. It works well last a long time you wipe it on let it dry then wipe down the shaft. Slick as Owl shit..*L**
 
kyle said:
Keep your hands clean! I don't burnish my shaft it gets sticky easier and you trap gunk in the pores (IMO) I use a white face cloth dampen half of it and zap it in the microwave until steaming and wipe.
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You are correct. Also, putting waxes, polishes, ..other stuff on your cue shaft will make it worse than not putting anything at all. They all give you a temporary feeling of slick. The reason is that you are surrounded by moistures from sweat, humidity and whatever gets on your hands from the drink you are drinking. You can not get away from these moistures as they are always present. These moistures mix with whatever you put on the shaft as you stroke and become gunky and sluggish. This mixing causes even greater stickiness and tackiness than using nothing at all, and then your cue shaft becomes a grit magnet.

You would be amazed at what you can put on your cue shaft that will give it a quick feel of glass-like slickness, even mayonnaise. Also, use alcohol as least as possible because this will dry out the wood which is what you do not want. Recommendation is to uses a conditioner only and just as you said keep your hands clean.
 
Bluey2King said:
I tried that new snowboard wax Its not a wax I forget the name it begins with a Z. It works well last a long time you wipe it on let it dry then wipe down the shaft. Slick as Owl shit..*L**
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Sounds like Zardoz "Not Wax". I've heard this mentioned before as a possible shaft conditioner. Interestingly it is packaged identically to SlipStic, right down to the shape of the container, the seperate bottle and the pad applicator. However whereas SlipStic are careful to only tell you what there product is NOT made out of ("No silicones, waxes or Teflon used") Zardoz proudly proclaim there product is made out of "100% pure Teflon" right on the label. They also go into some detail on how it works. They claim one of the main advantages over a traditional wax treatment is that it soaks into the wood, and then is drawn out in contact with a solid object. (In their intended market this is the snow the board rides on, but for a cue shaft this would presumably be your bridge hand.

Have you used other shaft conditioners before trying Zardoz? Can you post some comparasons?
 
AuntyDan said:
Sounds like Zardoz "Not Wax". I've heard this mentioned before as a possible shaft conditioner. Interestingly it is packaged identically to SlipStic, right down to the shape of the container, the seperate bottle and the pad applicator. However whereas SlipStic are careful to only tell you what there product is NOT made out of ("No silicones, waxes or Teflon used") Zardoz proudly proclaim there product is made out of "100% pure Teflon" right on the label. They also go into some detail on how it works. They claim one of the main advantages over a traditional wax treatment is that it soaks into the wood, and then is drawn out in contact with a solid object. (In their intended market this is the snow the board rides on, but for a cue shaft this would presumably be your bridge hand.

Have you used other shaft conditioners before trying Zardoz? Can you post some comparasons?
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It is not Zardoz. Different formula. We liked the Zardoz packaging and worked out a deal with them. Do not mistaking use Zardoz on your cue shaft for two reasons. 1. It WILL harm your cue shaft 2. Contains chemicals that are harmful to your eyes. (keep in mind that occasionally people rub their eyes and the stuff will get on your hands from stroking the cue.) Also no Teflon used in SlipStic. Looking back we should have come up with different packaging altogether so not to confuse anyone.
 
JimS said:
After each session of play I wipe the cue with lighter fluid and then burnish with leather. My shafts are extremely slick....always.
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If you like lighter fluid, our cleaner contains super distilled heptanes developed for us by Exxon. It is much purer and will not leave impurities behind. We had developed an earlier cleaner but did not go to market with it because it left chemical traces behind. It worked great though, just one or two wipes and the cue shaft looked brand new no matter how dark or blue it was.

The reason we decided with our current cleaner is from reading an earlier post over a year ago about someone using lighter fluid. It worked well and did not penetrate deep into the wood. Our only concern was to make sure that it dried rapidly with zero residue. It is meant for surface layer cleaning so that it will not destroy or weaken the cue shaft.
 
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