Kielwood Experiences

Nyquil said:
Seals the wood, prevents chalk staining, makes the shaft very very slick. Slicker than CF. All my wood shafts look brand new. Limited maintenance. Wood is the way.
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I’ve never ever considered this at all. But I’m also a lucky person whose hands don’t gum up my shaft at all.

You’ve got me curious though…
Can you suggest a way for me to try?
Any special instructions?
 
Coos Cues said:
It is my belief that regular hard maple and torrified maple will both stabilize to about the same moisture content over time living in the real world.

I'm not a scientist and I could be wrong.

I do know however that contrary to popular belief the torrified maple blanks I have, around 100 of them, are not on average any lighter than a 100 blank sampling of hard maple. There are light ones and there are heavy ones but the average is the same for the two groups.
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Maybe but the cooked one will absorb and release a lot less and slower.
The cooked one warps more after getting dried.
So,.when you get the straight board, much of the movement was removed imo
 
I've been using a kielwood shaft made by a great local cuemaker (Steve Murphy) on my Olney daily player for a couple years now and I am very pleased with payability, performance and how it's pretty much no maintenance required. I work this shaft hard and I break with it maybe half of the time I play.

No sticky feeling either.
 
Nyquil said:
I have heard kielwood can be tacky/sticky feeling vs a normal wood shaft. That's kept me from buying one. Are they as slick as a waxed normal wood shaft?
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I've played a hsumani and I thought it was a bit tacky. I don't think it had anything to do with the wood, just the way it was finished.
It was kind of glossy.
I've had regular maple shafts that were finished that way as well, I remove it and seal it.
 
dendweller said:
I've played a hsumani and I thought it was a bit tacky. I don't think it had anything to do with the wood, just the way it was finished.
It was kind of glossy.
I've had regular maple shafts that were finished that way as well, I remove it and seal it.
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Yea this is what I was hearing about. What do you seal yours with? I'll see if I can order one uncoated.
 
InsertCleverNameHere said:
I’ve never ever considered this at all. But I’m also a lucky person whose hands don’t gum up my shaft at all.

You’ve got me curious though…
Can you suggest a way for me to try?
Any special instructions?
Click to expand...
It's super easy really. I just bought the tiger shaft cleaning set. It comes with a scrub pad (magic eraser type) some chalk stain remover if you have really bad stains, fine finishing sanding pads, wax and an in-between sealer. To be honest I never have had to use the sanding pad's I just the use the scrubber that opens the pores takes out what chalk dust/wax I do have on the shaft wipe it down and then wax it. I usually do two coats. Never tried the in-between sealer because the wax is great.

If your shafts are really dirty the whole kit would definitely be useful. It's crazy how slick my shafts get and like I mentioned they all look brand new I play a fair bit with each.

Other things that absolutely help though is I play with a glove and I use Taom.
 
Nyquil said:
Yea this is what I was hearing about. What do you seal yours with? I'll see if I can order one uncoated.
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I've been using some sealer from Unique Products, they make cue lathes and a bunch of related stuff. There's a number of sanding sealers on the market.

I'd bet he seals it before he puts whatever that finish is on it. Most cue makers seal them between turns.

I'm curious what that finish is.
 
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