Yup, sounds about right. Came out great, plenty of meat to get the profile clean.
kleber or artemis on brunswick regina carom table
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Yup, sounds about right. Came out great, plenty of meat to get the profile clean.
Sure ill bite! Getting banned for calling your bullshit and lies out is a badge I wear proudly.
No idea, haven't had one in the stable yet. Difference between us is I admit ignorance then research until I'm not. You play the Glen card and go cry to Mr Wilson when you run out of intellectual ammo.
I'm guessing this is what you found -
Hope the cushions you removed were in better shape then this -
The best and easiest way is how Cobra said. Cut the sub rail off and replace it. It is possible if you find a master cabinet maker for them to cut/modify the existing subrail.
They just need to build a jig and set up their knives. That's what I did on mine and it came out perfect as far as the angle and nose height. I used Kleber and the table angles are really nice. The problem you (I) ran into is the height on the back side (glue side) of the rubber ends up a bit higher so your cue tip will ride over a speed bump. I solved this by filling in the void created with silicone cauk. Not pretty but works well.
My table is my Avitar. Brunswick Regal 1920's or older.
Go to Ron Kilby cue site and he has the dimensions of the sub rail. These can be purchased or your cabinet maker can make them. If you PM me with an address I can send you a small section of subrail to be copied. Jerry Karsh gave me a piece many years ago. Its was part of the subrail for his Sam Steel tables. The only thing is you have to be sure you don't end up changing the ID of your table. If you're good enough you'll notice some shots are impossible to get out of a kiss where if done right you can.
20 years ago cost:
Rubber $300
Cutting the liner $300
Install Rubber No charge. Had a friend and billiard buddy at the time.
RC's price seems a good one. And yes if you like your table then its worth it. Otherwise buck up and get youself a Verhoeven.
They just need to build a jig and set up their knives. That's what I did on mine and it came out perfect as far as the angle and nose height. I used Kleber and the table angles are really nice. The problem you (I) ran into is the height on the back side (glue side) of the rubber ends up a bit higher so your cue tip will ride over a speed bump. I solved this by filling in the void created with silicone cauk. Not pretty but works well.
My table is my Avitar. Brunswick Regal 1920's or older.
Go to Ron Kilby cue site and he has the dimensions of the sub rail. These can be purchased or your cabinet maker can make them. If you PM me with an address I can send you a small section of subrail to be copied. Jerry Karsh gave me a piece many years ago. Its was part of the subrail for his Sam Steel tables. The only thing is you have to be sure you don't end up changing the ID of your table. If you're good enough you'll notice some shots are impossible to get out of a kiss where if done right you can.
20 years ago cost:
Rubber $300
Cutting the liner $300
Install Rubber No charge. Had a friend and billiard buddy at the time.
RC's price seems a good one. And yes if you like your table then its worth it. Otherwise buck up and get youself a Verhoeven.
Please check my website, www.caromcues.com, for specific and thorough method to make the conversion. The playing area will be correct. (The photos you displayed were for a snooker rail -- converting to a carom table won't present a problem, just follow the instructions.)