Kress router needed ...
- Thread starter WilleeCue
- Start date
this place is in UK if it helps any,
http://www.worldofcnc.com/products.asp?category=Milling+Spindles&subcategory=Motors
http://www.worldofcnc.com/products.asp?category=Milling+Spindles&subcategory=Motors
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Willie The Only Source For The 110 Is Techno There $500.00 No Colects
This guy sells on eBay as well and does alright. I mean, I've never seen one not sell. He might prefer that you buy directly from him so he could avoid eBay fees but then you could also take your chances at auction as he starts these out quite low. I watched a 1050 get won at $178 before shipping, etc. It pays to shop around. He has the 800 mod. at 110v for about $250+/- given the English Pound is worth 2 American dollars.
Willee,
You might be able to run through a step-up transformer to get a true 220v on a single line.
Willee,
You might be able to run through a step-up transformer to get a true 220v on a single line.
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Willie Kress Is Not Making The 110 At This Time I Speak To Them A Few Times A Week When Ordering As I Said Techno Has Some 110v
The England Thing When All Is Said And Done Colocts And Extras And Shipping Aand Duties The Price Is Over $ 400.00 What I Have Posted Is A Fact!!from Some Thats Knows Not Just A Opion If They Ever Run More 110's I Will Have Them What Costs The Must Is Shipping And Duties We Are Currently Geting 12 Every Wekk To 10 Days I Am Stocking Up For The Us Open And Our Massive Display We Are Building..........
The England Thing When All Is Said And Done Colocts And Extras And Shipping Aand Duties The Price Is Over $ 400.00 What I Have Posted Is A Fact!!from Some Thats Knows Not Just A Opion If They Ever Run More 110's I Will Have Them What Costs The Must Is Shipping And Duties We Are Currently Geting 12 Every Wekk To 10 Days I Am Stocking Up For The Us Open And Our Massive Display We Are Building..........
WilleeCue said:
Willee, I understand. Would you concider using a relay with 110v ac coil plugged into the switched outlet to activate and de-activate the 220v motor. One relay driving another. 110v ac relays are a little harder to find but are out there. This would be cheaper than another motor. I was wondering though how Kress made their 110v versions of these motors. The only pictures I have seen show the 800 motor with some sort of yellow adapter on the cord. Is the motor wound different in these modles? In either case the 110v motor was a special run and will get harder to find.
Good luck on your search, Jim.
Thank You Paul,
Therein lies the problem. The 220v/50Hz Kress routers are intended for the European market. They will run on our current......at about half their intended speed unless the voltage to the router is stepped-up to 220v. Then there's the issue of the difference in Hertz (Hz)(cycles per second), 50/60Hz. What effect does that have on the tool? Cheers.
Therein lies the problem. The 220v/50Hz Kress routers are intended for the European market. They will run on our current......at about half their intended speed unless the voltage to the router is stepped-up to 220v. Then there's the issue of the difference in Hertz (Hz)(cycles per second), 50/60Hz. What effect does that have on the tool? Cheers.
KJ Cues said:
Kj, the frequency should have little to no effect on the motor. We have been using the 220v version for a couple of months now at 220v and it runds great. Every piece of equipment in my shop that will run either 110v or 220v is running at 220v. The motors run better and cooler at the higher voltage. If they are cooler that means that they are more efficiant at that voltage. Willee is already running at 220v on his. His issue is that he wants to be able to shut off the motor with gcode. He can do this with his old motor because it is 110v. If I had my choice I would stick to the 220v as long as I have an outlet to run it. Going to 110v version is a step down as far as I am concerned. I guess orther than Willee's aplication, why would you want to?
Jim.
KJ Cues said:
On an induction type motor (the ones with a starting capacitor) the frequency controls the speed of the motor.
A motor that uses brushes and a commutator is a DC type and depends on voltage for its speed.
Most routers are DC motors and contain a device that converts the AC to DC before it is applied to the brushes.
That is why 50 or 60 cycle AC dont really make a difference.
So ... running the Kress router on 110vac should be the same as running it at 220vac with the speed controller set at 50%.
The English adopted 50 cycle AC but they also drive on the wrong side of the road and use a different TV standard ... so there you are
Willee,
Thanx for a great reply. I'd seen the 'AC/DC' on the spec. tag of some pwr. hand tools and never thought much about it because I've never needed to run one on DC. The education continues.
England's alright. Just wouldn't want to live there. Couldn't afford it.
Thanx for a great reply. I'd seen the 'AC/DC' on the spec. tag of some pwr. hand tools and never thought much about it because I've never needed to run one on DC. The education continues.
England's alright. Just wouldn't want to live there. Couldn't afford it.
WilleeCue said:
WilleeCue,
I'm also curioius how this works out for you.
I got mine today and I'm wondering if I should just run it on 110 or 220.
I have a 220 outlet right next to the lathe I could use, so I guess I'll just run it there, but wouldn't mind hearing your results.
Also, I just want to double check here about switching over the plug. According to the users manual it states that the unit is double insulated and must not be earthed. That tells me that I just wire the 2 wires to match the black and white power leads on my 220 wall outlet (X & Y, IIRC), just as long as it's not the green one or bare copper I should be fine. Right?
Regards,
Frank
I'm not Willee, but I know him. I don't think he'll mind if I answer.
Any residential single phase 220 outlet in USA will have three legs. The center one is ground and the to side legs are both hot. Neither should be green or copper. Use a meter to be sure. You'll read 110-120 Volts Alternating Current (VAC) between ground and either hot leg, and 220-240 VAC between the two hot ones. My chassis is grounded (including the router) and everything works great. You can buy a meter at Harbor Freight for about 4 bucks.
Any residential single phase 220 outlet in USA will have three legs. The center one is ground and the to side legs are both hot. Neither should be green or copper. Use a meter to be sure. You'll read 110-120 Volts Alternating Current (VAC) between ground and either hot leg, and 220-240 VAC between the two hot ones. My chassis is grounded (including the router) and everything works great. You can buy a meter at Harbor Freight for about 4 bucks.