laminated handle A-joint

digdug

digdug

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Do you think there is an issue with putting the tenon on the forearm and connecting a laminated handle? I was wandering about strong the lamiation would be. The other day I tapped 3/8-16 thread into a cored butt section and the threads "crumbled " some. When I removed the tap the threads were maybe 50%. I drilled a 5/16 hole to tap. Thanks Doug
 
digdug said:
Do you think there is an issue with putting the tenon on the forearm and connecting a laminated handle? I was wandering about strong the lamiation would be. The other day I tapped 3/8-16 thread into a cored butt section and the threads "crumbled " some. When I removed the tap the threads were maybe 50%. I drilled a 5/16 hole to tap. Thanks Doug
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No problem if the laminated wood is something like Dymondwood.

Doug, did you use some thin CA to harden the wood before tapping?
Try it next time you tap a hole in wood to keep the threads from crumbling.
 
16 tpi is a pretty fine thread .
Speed is your friend.
Live-threading will cut those threads much better.
 
digdug said:
I did not use anything in the hole. But i will try it, THANKS alot, Doug
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Be real sure to use some excellerator and make sure the CA has set before tapping the hole.
Otherwise you will spend some time cleaning hardened CA off your tap.

If the hole you tapped is for the "A" joint ... dont worry about how pretty it looks.
No one will ever see it and all you need is enough strength to pre-load the "A" joint while the epoxy sets up.
Once hardened it will be a solid mass.

The laminated wood that Atlas sells is plenty strong.
The tenon can go either way.
Into the forearm or into the handle depending upon your personal preference and style.
Once built you can not see of feel the difference.
Use some good epoxy (I like golf shafting epoxy) very slow setting preferred and you will not have any problems.
 
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The 16 thread was for the butt screw. Sorry for the confusion. There was two questions. Thanks
 
I like to rake some bees wax on my tap to reduce the thread tear out plus I run it in by hand.
 
I use the laminated cores from Atlas to core my fronts handles etc and when I connect handle to forearm I like to put some cue wax inside before tapping, I get much better threads it seems.

Then again I use the Radial pin connecting screw, very high tolerances and wider threads.
 
digdug said:
The 16 thread was for the butt screw. Sorry for the confusion. There was two questions. Thanks
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I've done a few and never any trouble, I didn't use anything in the hole either, If your tap has a tapered lead, should have been fine.
 
Another thing to consider might be a coarser thread such as 3/8-10 or radial. The threads are deeper & spaced further apart which seem to grab better in wood for a more powerful bond. Something to consider.

But 3/8-16 should be fine & plenty strong enough. I know several builders who use it for "A" joints with no problem. Your tap might be dull, too. I don't skimp on taps. I buy the more expensive & higher grade taps because they cut so well in wood. If your tap is sharp then you should be able to cut any wood with good results.
 
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