LD shafts?

cuebuyer4u

Gamble Cues
Silver Member
Whats with all these LD shafts these days?

seems everyone is making one.

im curious how AZ feels about them. Please feel free to add any shafts you want to the list im curious how many there are.

Heres what brands I know off the top of my head.

predator
mezz
OB
Katana
Jacoby
Muecci
tiger
lucassi
viking
cuetec

Do you think they help you play better? which is best to you?

In my opinion it started as a way to build shafts from crap wood and build them really fast in comparison to traditional shafts.
 
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There are a lot of ld shaft threads. You could spend weeks reviewing all of the information available.

If you are serious, and not just starting another ld war - here is my $.02

"Low deflection" is terrible terminology. It is extremely ambiguous.

I feel shafts should be rated from 1 to 10 on a deflection scale.

- All shafts have squirt - the amount of deviation from the line of aim when sidespin is applied.

- There is also swerve - after the squirt effect has dissipated the sidespin takes over causing a masse type effect moving the cue ball back towards the aim line.

The end mass of the shaft has been proven to have the most (if not all) of the impact on ld characteristics.


My current scale

1 - Predator z2

(Everything in between)


10 - 13 mm standard shaft ( would also depend on density of wood )

My personal choice is something in between.

Some people like more squirt some like less.

It's not hype, marketing or anything else. It's fact - some shafts are high deflection some are low deflection.

This does not make them good or bad.

Just like you can have a 17 oz cue or a 20 oz cue, you can have high or low deflection.
 
The science behind LD shafts is real and noticeable. There's no disputing fact. It's set in stone. Any company that is built on supplying LD shafts must find a way to mass produce on a scale much larger than a typical production cue company, and do so in an economical and effective way.

This is where laminating comes in to play. Laminating the wood offers many benefits in the way of LD shaft production. They can be produced much faster, at higher volume, with a broader range of wood quality, and will result in a more stable & more consistent product. With being laminated, it doesn't matter how straight grain or tight grain the wood is. Junk wood will produce a comparable shaft to the very best wood, so why wouldn't an outfit opt for more economical lumber? The end result is just as good as if they used top grade lumber. That said, one company comes to mind that seem to continuously strive for higher & higher quality and advancement in technology. That's OB.

In my opinion, OB Cues is the best. LD shafts for a long time were noticeably weird feeling, unnatural. OB consistently strives to close that gap and produce a shaft that not only maximizes the LD technology, but also that feels good to the player. They have blurred the line that used to clearly separate laminated LD shafts and solid maple shafts, and doing so has made them successful. Being a custom maker who prefers stiff, firm hitting cues, I have never been a big fan of LD shafts. Until the last few years, LD shafts pretty much all fit the same mold of long, slender tapers with thin diameters & dull feel. OB has figured out a way to keep a solid feel, classic sizes, and still offer LD technology. What's not to like?
 
True there are countless threads on this. If you do careful research and just read the information available you'll see it's not just all hype. Is it necessary to use one? No. Does it make a difference in how well you shoot? Maybe, but that all depends on the shooter. Lots of top players use either or and can still run packs on anyone.
 
Personal Preference

LD shafts have been around for sometime as you probably know. I have played with Predators, Tigers and Lucasi $200 shafts some for months at a time on a variety of cues. I have been fortunate to have owned and played many, many different cues some from very well known builders. Like most, in search for the 'magic'.

I was noticing inconsistency in my game. My player had been a Predator ' Roadline' for months with a 314-2 LD. Changed up. I am running and playing the best pool of my life and blowing away my friends at the hall every evening with a 40yr old $50 wood shaft Dufferin that I had for many years and forgot about. When I leave the table I am keeping my eye on it like it is one of my expensive cues. HAHAHA

I do not think I will ever play with a LD shaft again. I conclude feel of real wood is where it is at for me. I just get more feedback and predictable action with wood. If you can afford it I do recommend trying an LD shaft if you have not just so you know. Do not buy a new one. Get a good straight used one and if you do not like it you will get your money back. Some of my friends love theirs it's personal preference.

I have a closet full of very nice cues and this old wood shafted Dufferin is the 'magic'......for now:wink:.

-Late,
 
I have done no research and have not even tried to understand the science behind LD shafts, but what I know is this: I bought a Predator shaft in 1996. When using that shaft there was a noticeable improvement in my game. Around 1999 I started playing less and less pool then realized sometime after that I had pretty much quit. In 2011 I dusted off the cue and started back, still playing with the same Predator shaft. After a few weeks my game seemed to be pretty close to where it was at its peak in 1997 with my bar table game actually being much better. Christmas of 2012 I got an OB classic shaft. Guess what... a very noticeable improvement in my game. Do I know why? No... do I care why? No... all I know and care about is the fact that I play better with it.
 
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I must say, I like my Lucasi Zero Flex Point Slim shaft. I was playing with a McDermott Gcore. I can feel a difference and it makes me happy. I am however a C or D player so maybe it's all in my head.
 
Christmas of 2012 I got an OB classic shaft. Guess what... a very noticeable improvement in my game. Do I know why? No... do I care why? No... all I know and care about is the fact that I play better with it.


I experienced this too when I first switched to the OB1. It seemed to really improve my game, but it's in the closet now b/c once it got broken in, I couldn't stand the feel of the spliced wood. Maybe it's mental, but it seems to have an unusual graininess too it. Feels like I'm going to get a splinter.

Now it's a Willie Speed 12mm long pro taper...plays amazing... no more LD debate needed for me. So your'e right... it's all about what you play better with. Confidence triggers repetition.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone people have touched alot of good topics.

so overall it makes the game easier to most people.

anyone notice things you can do easier with a regular shaft over a LD shaft?
 
There is also the McDermott G-core and I-core LD shafts.
I just picked up a Predator Z2 to try from a friend, it seems very comparable to my G-core which I use regularly. I have a Schon with a plain maple shaft that I really have a tough time with when using side spin, that's the butt I put the Predator on which seems to play with similar deflection to the G-core.
 
I experienced this too when I first switched to the OB1. It seemed to really improve my game, but it's in the closet now b/c once it got broken in, I couldn't stand the feel of the spliced wood. Maybe it's mental, but it seems to have an unusual graininess too it. Feels like I'm going to get a splinter.

Now it's a Willie Speed 12mm long pro taper...plays amazing... no more LD debate needed for me. So your'e right... it's all about what you play better with. Confidence triggers repetition.


The original OB-1 Series Shafts, using laminated wood, have been discontinued. They have been replaced with the "NEW" OB-1 Plus Series, that uses solid maple and carries a lifetime warranty against warpage. The OB-1+, is also advertised as having a lower tip end mass than the original.

I have an OB-1, love it, but am going to give the OB-1+ a try.

Check out the OB web site: http://www.obcues.com/

Find a player with a NEW OB-1+ or a dealer with a demo to see if you like the feel before you buy one.

As far as the grainy feel ... I used burnishing papers to smooth the shaft out. Never use sandpaper!
 
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ld shafts

i thank bob danielson that builds the sweet spot 360 6 piece is the best one out there i have 3 of them and buying more of them bob builds all the shafts him self.:D:eek:
 
I agree, for some people lower deflection shafts will not offer any advantages. I use the analogy of power steering on cars for comparing lower deflection shafts. It makes it easier to perform parallel parking, but don't buy it and expect it to park the car for you automatically.

I didn't get any more draw or english using lower deflection shafts, just makes it easier to pull it off.

LD shafts offer several advantages for the people who use them properly.

For many people, they won't offer any advantages at all.

There are also potential disadvantages associated with using LD shafts.

Enjoy,
Dave
 
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Thanks for the replies everyone people have touched alot of good topics.

so overall it makes the game easier to most people.

anyone notice things you can do easier with a regular shaft over a LD shaft?[/QUOTE]

Masse and jumping, both for the same reason that the shaft is deflecting away from the cue ball more.
 
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