Leveling a Diamond ProAm

ChopStick

ChopStick

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Silver Member
First, let me say that I am not a professional. I do like working on my own tables and have recovered them and done minor repairs for many years. Mr. Cobra, when your DVDs are ready I will buy a set.

I have just received my 9 foot Diamond ProAM. I noticed that the slates have a curl at the ends. In other words the corner pockets at one end of the table are high. There is also a valley starting at the first diamond on the long rail all the way across parallel to the head rail. The whole length of the head rail is high.

I am using a 12 inch Starrett to make this determination. With the rest of the table dead level, the corner pockets and the whole head rail area are two to three hash marks outside of the center bubble high. The dip leading up to it is one to two hash marks outside of center bubble low.

I am aware of the leveling system of this table and have used it before. It will take me about two weeks of fiddling with it to get it all level. I would like to present the method I am using for your review and suggestions.

First, I believe that a table will be the most stable, as far as retaining level, if as much of the slate as possible is resting on the frame. I start by backing off all of the rail adjusters until the slate sits on the frame. Yes, I do loosen the rail bolts first. I then bring up the center adjusters until all four are in contact with the slate. The two ProAms I have worked with only had two of the center adjusters supporting the slate. I don't know if they are that way on purpose or they moved in transit.

Once the center is supported I level it as much as I can using the feet. I work the center adjusters against the foot adjusters to get as much of the playing area level as possible. I then use the under the rail adjusters to level the rest of it.

In the case of a pocket being the high spot, I raise up the center adjuster diagonal to it until the pocket is level then go to the rail adjusters adjacent to the center adjuster and work my way back towards the pocket, leveling as I go.

Is this the correct/best way to do this? I wouldn't mind having a professional do this for me but I am not aware of anyone in my area that could do this. Bear in mind that I know that these tables can be dialed in perfect. I have done it before myself and I would expect no less from a pro. It just takes me a few weeks of fiddling with it to get it there.

So, any suggestions or criticisms would be appreciated, I just want what's best for my baby.
 
ChopStick said:
First, let me say that I am not a professional. I do like working on my own tables and have recovered them and done minor repairs for many years. Mr. Cobra, when your DVDs are ready I will buy a set.

I have just received my 9 foot Diamond ProAM. I noticed that the slates have a curl at the ends. In other words the corner pockets at one end of the table are high. There is also a valley starting at the first diamond on the long rail all the way across parallel to the head rail. The whole length of the head rail is high.

I am using a 12 inch Starrett to make this determination. With the rest of the table dead level, the corner pockets and the whole head rail area are two to three hash marks outside of the center bubble high. The dip leading up to it is one to two hash marks outside of center bubble low.

I am aware of the leveling system of this table and have used it before. It will take me about two weeks of fiddling with it to get it all level. I would like to present the method I am using for your review and suggestions.

First, I believe that a table will be the most stable, as far as retaining level, if as much of the slate as possible is resting on the frame. I start by backing off all of the rail adjusters until the slate sits on the frame. Yes, I do loosen the rail bolts first. I then bring up the center adjusters until all four are in contact with the slate. The two ProAms I have worked with only had two of the center adjusters supporting the slate. I don't know if they are that way on purpose or they moved in transit.

Once the center is supported I level it as much as I can using the feet. I work the center adjusters against the foot adjusters to get as much of the playing area level as possible. I then use the under the rail adjusters to level the rest of it.

In the case of a pocket being the high spot, I raise up the center adjuster diagonal to it until the pocket is level then go to the rail adjusters adjacent to the center adjuster and work my way back towards the pocket, leveling as I go.

Is this the correct/best way to do this? I wouldn't mind having a professional do this for me but I am not aware of anyone in my area that could do this. Bear in mind that I know that these tables can be dialed in perfect. I have done it before myself and I would expect no less from a pro. It just takes me a few weeks of fiddling with it to get it there.

So, any suggestions or criticisms would be appreciated, I just want what's best for my baby.
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As I have said many times in the past, perfectly level at the time the table leaves the factory, is not going to be the same where the table ends up at. A table will go through shock if you will, when it's moved from one environmet to another, the longer the slate sets on the frame, it'll change, until it changes no more, and that takes time. Sounds to me like you have the right idea on leveling your table, but keep in mind, changes can take place over the next 6 months of owning your table.

Glen
 
That is exactly what I have observed. Slate does change shape. You have to adjust it a little then let it rest for a few days or a week. Then check it again. I've only had mine for about a week. I still hear the frame creak every now and them at night, settling in.

I am glad to hear that this is natural for them. It takes me two weeks just to get one in the ball park and another month and a half before it starts to really get right. I believe it about taking six months. I have never been able to get one to settle down in less than two. I thought I was imagining it or going about it the wrong way.

You might get a laugh out of this. A few years ago I got a second story apartment and got my previous table, a Diamond Professional out of storage and moved it in there. I ran down to Graingers and bought the Starrett level and went to work.

I went round and round that table leveling it and drove myself crasy for two weeks making no progress at all. I would level up one end the go and level the other. When I came back to check the first end it was off. Not just a little but way off, like it never was in the first place. After a while I finally realized that the blasted level was registering me based on where I was standing in the room. I was setting the level down with the business end pointed at me. I would pick it up walk a step or two, put it down and every time I did that no matter where I put it down it would register a low spot on the table.

Yep, I'm a bonehead. I was finally able to get it level setting the level down crossways of where I was standing. I actually moved to a first floor place just to get this table.

BTW, I know that you were the major contributor in the design of this table and it is outstanding. Thanks.
 
I have gotten in the habit of telling all of my customers wanting their table on an upper floor that they will possibly see funny rolls.

Sort of related...I've also been in an arguement in a summer league match when the "gentleman" I was playing insisted on turning the fan on full blast during our game, yet also insisted on complaining about the table rolling bad.... (away from the fan...imagine that!)
 
ChopStick said:
That is exactly what I have observed. Slate does change shape. You have to adjust it a little then let it rest for a few days or a week. Then check it again. I've only had mine for about a week. I still hear the frame creak every now and them at night, settling in.

I am glad to hear that this is natural for them. It takes me two weeks just to get one in the ball park and another month and a half before it starts to really get right. I believe it about taking six months. I have never been able to get one to settle down in less than two. I thought I was imagining it or going about it the wrong way.

You might get a laugh out of this. A few years ago I got a second story apartment and got my previous table, a Diamond Professional out of storage and moved it in there. I ran down to Graingers and bought the Starrett level and went to work.

I went round and round that table leveling it and drove myself crasy for two weeks making no progress at all. I would level up one end the go and level the other. When I came back to check the first end it was off. Not just a little but way off, like it never was in the first place. After a while I finally realized that the blasted level was registering me based on where I was standing in the room. I was setting the level down with the business end pointed at me. I would pick it up walk a step or two, put it down and every time I did that no matter where I put it down it would register a low spot on the table.

Yep, I'm a bonehead. I was finally able to get it level setting the level down crossways of where I was standing. I actually moved to a first floor place just to get this table.

BTW, I know that you were the major contributor in the design of this table and it is outstanding. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Thank you chopstick:D
 
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