Leveling a Table

Arm resting you will win.


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I tell you what, I'm 5' 11, 62yrs old, weigh 290lbs...I'll give you a fair spot, you can use both arms and bet high!!
 

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Haha. This picture is a keeper. Like I said you would win at arm wrestling.


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Glenn is 100% right on this. I have learned a lot from one of Glenn's friends. There can be grain in the cloth, or the slate can be crowned. Rolling balls is nice, but in the end you have to trust all of the machinist levels. and if your slate is crowned, it is what it is.
 
i had a guy set up a 9' GC1 for me long ago in the land of the 80's. he was slap-dash give me the cash and left. well, not long after the balls began rolling inward toward the center of the table on all corners. i was dumbfounded because i thought that slate didn't bend but bend it does. i finally got it level by shimming and rolling balls on the bare slate. it took me forever but afterwards i could slow roll a ball the length of the table..... i used this method when i bought an 8' pro Gandy and it worked fantastic. i plan on doing the same with my 'new' 8' GCIII AFTER i get it as level as possible with a level. that's the key. level everything then roll some balls across the table to fine tune.
 
i had a guy set up a 9' GC1 for me long ago in the land of the 80's. he was slap-dash give me the cash and left. well, not long after the balls began rolling inward toward the center of the table on all corners. i was dumbfounded because i thought that slate didn't bend but bend it does. i finally got it level by shimming and rolling balls on the bare slate. it took me forever but afterwards i could slow roll a ball the length of the table..... i used this method when i bought an 8' pro Gandy and it worked fantastic. i plan on doing the same with my 'new' 8' GCIII AFTER i get it as level as possible with a level. that's the key. level everything then roll some balls across the table to fine tune.

There are sections on every table that cannot be shimmed. Because of this, rolling a ball could give you a false reading. Where you think that you are making improvements in one area, you could be creating more of a problem in other areas.

When leveling a table, it is best to have specific points to measure from. Once you level across all of those points, you have to live with what it leaves you.

Don't get me wrong, I can fairly accurately foot-level a barbox by rolling a ball. However, this doesn't account for sagging slate, which MOST Valley tables have. Much the same as a 3 pc slate table, where you roll the ball will make a huge difference in what it tells you.
 
this doesn't account for sagging slate, which MOST Valley tables have.

i have found that all of my vintage pool tables sagged in the middle. it will be interesting if my 'new' 8' GCIII will do the same..... but it was an epiphany when i learned that slate could sag..... i spoke with a mechanic long ago and told him that i put two extra supports underneath the table pushing up slightly on the center of the main support beam. he told me that i was on the right track. that table played great. it was an 8' Mahogany Brunswick but can't remember the model name....

Where you think that you are making improvements in one area, you could be creating more of a problem in other areas.

isn't this always the difficulty of leveling a 3-piece slate pool table?
 
this doesn't account for sagging slate

my GCI began rolling off towards the inside on all four corners. i was dumbfounded. i shimmed it in the center and it was fine. if you have saggy slate you must shim it in the center or it will play terrible and all slate is destine to sag from the pull of gravity especially if the slab is shimmed and resting on the center supports. over time it will sag.
 
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