Looking at this lathe

  • Thread starter Thread starter JC
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JC

JC

Coos Cues
Since there has been a lot of lathe discussion lately this seems timely.

Wondering what you guys think of this thing? Don't see a model number so don't know it's age or country of origin. Seems like it's not such a beast like the new grizzlys and may be well suited for cue building. I don't have 3 phase and like the VFD idea. Maybe the price is too high?

Thanks

https://medford.craigslist.org/tls/5996528381.html


JC
 
The lathe is made in Taiwan. That series was at one time offered by Enco.
Because of the oil-level sight glasses on the face of the headstock,
I'd always thought these to be gear-head drive. Apparently they're not.
That's a good thing. I now believe those sight glasses monitor the oil-level
of the reservoirs that supply oil to the spindle brgs. Nice feature.
I'd be very surprised to learn the ways aren't 'hard'.
All in all, it's a nice lathe. Nice condition and nicely tooled.
The price is fair for a lathe in that condition.
It's not a 'beast' because it's not an engine-lathe; it's a bench-top.

"Who's YOUR President Snowflake?"

It ain't Trumpski cupcake.

KJ
 
Looks like a ok lathe for cue making, but the $2500 price tag is a little high, if you can get it closer to $2000 it's a good deal.
 
KJ Cues said:
The lathe is made in Taiwan. That series was at one time offered by Enco.
Because of the oil-level sight glasses on the face of the headstock,
I'd always thought these to be gear-head drive. Apparently they're not.
That's a good thing. I now believe those sight glasses monitor the oil-level
of the reservoirs that supply oil to the spindle brgs. Nice feature.
I'd be very surprised to learn the ways aren't 'hard'.
All in all, it's a nice lathe. Nice condition and nicely tooled.
The price is fair for a lathe in that condition.
It's not a 'beast' because it's not an engine-lathe; it's a bench-top.

"Who's YOUR President Snowflake?"

It ain't Trumpski cupcake.

KJ
Click to expand...

Jet has had both belt drive and gear drive for a long time. The belt drives are a bit of a slow poke. One of the pics shows the top (stock) speed to be 1240. The top speed on the gear drives is usually 2000. The VFD was probably added to kick up the RPM's. Yes regarding what the oil sights are for. Yes for Taiwan. Current Jets are China, of course.

The belt upgrades (over standard automotive belts) and how clean things look probably means it was well cared for. The tool post and holder look interesting. Very fair price if the machine is tight and the owner will deliver it.
 
That lathe is from the era when Jet made quality tools. I think it's a good deal, I'd say it's actually worth more than any brand new comparable grizzly.
 
JC said:
I have never owned a full sized lathe before. Can you please elaborate a little about what you like about this one?

Thanks,

JC
Click to expand...

Can't wait to see what you do with it. :)
j2
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I took all advice, even Kim's:)

Bought it for 2k, just have to wait for March to show signs of going out like a lamb and I'll go get it. It's 4 hours away and it's a blizzard here today. Very rare for the Oregon coast. Love this global warming stuff.

JC
 
JC said:
Thanks everyone for your input. I took all advice, even Kim's:)

Bought it for 2k, just have to wait for March to show signs of going out like a lamb and I'll go get it. It's 4 hours away and it's a blizzard here today. Very rare for the Oregon coast. Love this global warming stuff.

JC
Click to expand...
Post some pictures when shes up and running :)
 
So I got this lathe home yesterday. Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the users manual for it? It's a 1236py model.

Thanks,

JC
 
While it's POSSIBLE that the VFD was purchased to ramp up some speed, I doubt it. Many motors, especially older ones, aren't friendly to HZ above or below their designed frequency. You can get away with a little bit, but it's not good for the motor and the VFD will trip when it starts to see trouble. Ideally, VFD's are connected directly to the motor and the low voltage I/O terminal is used to operate switch functions ect. 7 or 8 years ago I was told it wouldn't even work if I ran it like a phase converter, through the machines contactors...ect. With my affinity for breaking things, I did exactly what they told me I couldn't/shouldn't do and it's been running like that since I plugged it in. It's a 2 speed motor and it won't always ramp up the first time on high, but it never fails to get going if I try a couple more times...

One of the most useful things on my lathes are the foot brakes. Unless you're perfect and nothing unexpected ever happens they are worth their weight in gold and indespensible as far as I'm concerned . Braking is typically an option in a vfd, so If there isn't a mechanical one I'd suggest wiring one up electronically. When the vfd is given on OFF command it slows the motor as fast as you want. I believe that, depending on the ramp down time you program, you may or may not need a resistor.
 
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pescadoman said:
While it's POSSIBLE that the VFD was purchased to ramp up some speed, I doubt it. Many motors, especially older ones, aren't friendly to HZ above or below their designed frequency. You can get away with a little bit, but it's not good for the motor and the VFD will trip when it starts to see trouble. Ideally, VFD's are connected directly to the motor and the low voltage I/O terminal is used to operate switch functions ect. 7 or 8 years ago I was told it wouldn't even work if I ran it like a phase converter, through the machines contactors...ect. With my affinity for breaking things, I did exactly what they told me I couldn't/shouldn't do and it's been running like that since I plugged it in. It's a 2 speed motor and it won't always ramp up the first time on high, but it never fails to get going if I try a couple more times...

One of the most useful things on my lathes are the foot brakes. Unless you're perfect and nothing unexpected ever happens they are worth their weight in gold and indespensible as far as I'm concerned . Braking is typically an option in a vfd, so If there isn't a mechanical one I'd suggest wiring one up electronically. When the vfd is given on OFF command it slows the motor as fast as you want. I believe that, depending on the ramp down time you program, you may or may not need a resistor.
Click to expand...

I have been playing with the VFD this morning. It is of course possible to ramp up the speed considerably. The fellow I bought it from was a metal worker and he bought the vfd because he didn't have three phase. He didn't even have the belt on the highest speed but the lowest. He had the motor set at 2100 max. I have tried it at different speeds it seems to run fine but I wonder how much speed the gears can take on this thing? I ran it up to 3900 to see what would happen and what would happen is the thing zings right along with no signs of trouble. Not sure if it will kill the motor over time or harm the lathe gears. The motor doesn't appear to be original. This lathe has steel gears so they're kind o noisy anyway. He had the VFD set to coast to a stop so I fooled with it too using volt ramping and it seems to stop just fine set at 1 second. I still need to figure out how to make it run backwards with an external switch as the VFD is mounted under the bench and wired to an external on-of switch and potentiometer on the plate where the original lathe controls were. I know I can do it with the VFD itself but the controls on it are not practical even if I move the box. The guy I bought it from told me the chuck would zing off if I ran it in reverse, so he was sceptical. Maybe some blue loctite?

The through hole is kind of long at about 20 inches to the front chuck jaws so a rear chuck may not even be useful. I'm not sure yet. Maybe just some collets back there?

I plan to use this lathe for coring and threading so I really don't need the speed anyway. Anyone who can give me helpful advice I'm all ears and thank you. This is my first real lathe.

JC
 
JC said:
I have been playing with the VFD this morning. It is of course possible to ramp up the speed considerably. The fellow I bought it from was a metal worker and he bought the vfd because he didn't have three phase. He didn't even have the belt on the highest speed but the lowest. He had the motor set at 2100 max. I have tried it at different speeds it seems to run fine but I wonder how much speed the gears can take on this thing? I ran it up to 3900 to see what would happen and what would happen is the thing zings right along with no signs of trouble. Not sure if it will kill the motor over time or harm the lathe gears. The motor doesn't appear to be original. This lathe has steel gears so they're kind o noisy anyway. He had the VFD set to coast to a stop so I fooled with it too using volt ramping and it seems to stop just fine set at 1 second. I still need to figure out how to make it run backwards with an external switch as the VFD is mounted under the bench and wired to an external on-of switch and potentiometer on the plate where the original lathe controls were. I know I can do it with the VFD itself but the controls on it are not practical even if I move the box. The guy I bought it from told me the chuck would zing off if I ran it in reverse, so he was sceptical. Maybe some blue loctite?

The through hole is kind of long at about 20 inches to the front chuck jaws so a rear chuck may not even be useful. I'm not sure yet. Maybe just some collets back there?

I plan to use this lathe for coring and threading so I really don't need the speed anyway. Anyone who can give me helpful advice I'm all ears and thank you. This is my first real lathe.

JC
Click to expand...
THAT'S HOW you want it.
So if you're working on a butt or shaft, you're chucking on around 24-25".
I like 25" so I can chuck up on the sleeve in the rear. Not on the handle.

Buy some 1 1/2 delrin rods.
Turn them down to 1 3/8 to fit that hole.
1 1/2" long and drill/bore holes on them for different uses.
Keep the forearm pieces to 1 1/8 before you core them.
Simple enough.

That VFD should really be wired with the lathe's controller too.
Makes the emergency stop work.
 
JoeyInCali said:
THAT'S HOW you want it.
So if you're working on a butt or shaft, you're chucking on around 24-25".
I like 25" so I can chuck up on the sleeve in the rear. Not on the handle.

Buy some 1 1/2 delrin rods.
Turn them down to 1 3/8 to fit that hole.
1 1/2" long and drill/bore holes on them for different uses.
Keep the forearm pieces to 1 1/8 before you core them.
Simple enough.

That VFD should really be wired with the lathe's controller too.
Makes the emergency stop work.
Click to expand...

It's great you can control the speeds; neither my saw or mill cared to much for that.
I've never used the E-stop on my lathe. I got used to the foot brake. 1 sec ramp down, like he has it is pretty fast anyway. I don't know which vfd you have, but here is an example of fwd/stop/rev on a Delta-E
 

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JC said:
Why not make them out of wood scraps?

JC
Click to expand...

Because wood expands and shrinks from weather and age.
Never mind that delrin or teflon are very durable yet they can expand or contract some if needed but always goes back to original form.
 
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