Looking for a new cue

K

kersje

Registered
Hi,

Im currently using a buffalo premium 2 butt with a cheapazz shaft and snipertip, before used a moori but dont think either made much different, so should be more like the shaft. Now ive decided to just buy a new cue but how u check if what cue is the best for you? Ofcourse its different for everyone, the one plays awesome with Mezz and the others find Predator a lot better. I am about to go test a Mezz with Hybrid Pro Shaft but how do u test such if ur holding one in your hand? Im not a really pro with these testing and deflection stuff so would like to have some advice on this. Thanks in advance!
 
What do you plan to spend?That will make a big difference considering specific suggestions.
 
Lots of good hitting cues out there in that range.

As far as production cues Schon comes to mind right away.Very popular and good hitting cue.

Pat Diveney (sp?) cues (Custom)get some very nice talk out of those who have them here I've noticed.I found one for about 350 so that may be a possibilty.I think its Patdivenycues.com if you want to take a look.Been thinking about one of these myself.

I shoot with a Dale Perry cue which I love.Found on ebay easily within that price range.Some guys here frown on the cue maker do to some business decisions he made,but I find the cue to be perfect and a wonderful player with great workmanship.

Just a few to consider.I'll let the others chime in,many suggestions to come I imagine.

Happy hunting,
 
thanks but i still would like to know on how to test such if the cue suits me or not, any advice on how to test since im a person that knows a lot about the material
 
thanks but i still would like to know on how to test such if the cue suits me or not, any advice on how to test since im a person that knows a lot about the material
Click to expand...

As far as I'm concerned that's nearly impossible to convey via one person to another.Hit,feel and balance are all matters of personal taste.

How to test em without hitting em is beyond me.
Best of luck,
 
Testing ....

is a difficult chore at best. Why, because most places WILL NOT let you chalk a NEW cue when testing, at least cuemakers won't. So test hitting with a cue with no chalk on the tip is just an estimation at how good it hits.

What does matter though, a lot, is balance and feel. One way to judge is when you test hit, is to feel the hit at the micro second of impact. A cue that is too forward balanced for you will feel like the cue makes contact with the cue ball before the cue ball goes in motion. A cue that is too butt heavy will feel like cue ball is in motion before you really feel the contact impact.

A cue that feels just right for you will feel like the motion of the cue ball and contact impact are syncronized right together. It is difficult to distinquish these very slight differences, but that is probably the best description I can give you.

Myself, I prefer to feel pretty even all the way down, with a feel for the weight between my bridge and grip hand, mostly in the upper forearm.

When you feel that your stroke with it is, "Poetry in motion", that is the cue for you.
 
Snapshot9 said:
is a difficult chore at best. Why, because most places WILL NOT let you chalk a NEW cue when testing, at least cuemakers won't. So test hitting with a cue with no chalk on the tip is just an estimation at how good it hits.

What does matter though, a lot, is balance and feel. One way to judge is when you test hit, is to feel the hit at the micro second of impact. A cue that is too forward balanced for you will feel like the cue makes contact with the cue ball before the cue ball goes in motion. A cue that is too butt heavy will feel like cue ball is in motion before you really feel the contact impact.

A cue that feels just right for you will feel like the motion of the cue ball and contact impact are syncronized right together. It is difficult to distinquish these very slight differences, but that is probably the best description I can give you.

Myself, I prefer to feel pretty even all the way down, with a feel for the weight between my bridge and grip hand, mostly in the upper forearm.

When you feel that your stroke with it is, "Poetry in motion", that is the cue for you.
Click to expand...

Then there is taper,diameter at the tip and the butt,wrap,tip,overall weight,woods used,joint ect ect ect.The variables are countless.
 
Best idea yet.Just ask to hit a few different cues in your local halls that players bring in.Then ask questions about what you notice regarding everything mentioned above (wieght,taper ect)

Just be genuine,and you will find a a gracious cue displayer everytime.I know I will gladly explain why I love my cue.
 
To get the feel of a cue it takes at least an hour (4 me anyway). Now try and find a cuemaker that will let you test one of his for an hour. Not going to happen. I can see hitting just a few balls with a $200 cue...but when you go $500 or more, I'd have to use it for an hour before I bought it or rejected it. Johnnyt
 
Johnnyt said:
To get the feel of a cue it takes at least an hour (4 me anyway). Now try and find a cuemaker that will let you test one of his for an hour. Not going to happen. I can see hitting just a few balls with a $200 cue...but when you go $500 or more, I'd have to use it for an hour before I bought it or rejected it. Johnnyt
Click to expand...

When I bought mine Longoni P8 (around $300), I tested like 2 hours with 3 different kind of shafts. They didn't care how long I take to test the cue. I could test it as long as I need it.
 
WesleyW said:
When I bought mine Longoni P8 (around $300), I tested like 2 hours with 3 different kind of shafts. They didn't care how long I take to test the cue. I could test it as long as I need it.
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That was a used cue right? Johnnyt
 
Johnnyt said:
To get the feel of a cue it takes at least an hour (4 me anyway). Now try and find a cuemaker that will let you test one of his for an hour. Not going to happen. I can see hitting just a few balls with a $200 cue...but when you go $500 or more, I'd have to use it for an hour before I bought it or rejected it. Johnnyt
Click to expand...
At Billiards and Bagels in Gresham, Oregon, they let you play with any cue stick as long as you need to before you buy. In my view, a cue maker who will not let a prospective buyer try a cue to see how it plays is incompetent. On the other hand, a buyer who expects his new cue to never have been chalked is unreasonable. How can the cue maker tell whether he has built a clunker without trying it? Cue makers are no more perfect than the rest of us.
 
Bob Jewett said:
At Billiards and Bagels in Gresham, Oregon, they let you play with any cue stick as long as you need to before you buy. In my view, a cue maker who will not let a prospective buyer try a cue to see how it plays is incompetent. On the other hand, a buyer who expects his new cue to never have been chalked is unreasonable. How can the cue maker tell whether he has built a clunker without trying it? Cue makers are no more perfect than the rest of us.
Click to expand...

I agree with all you just said. Johnnyt
 
Cue

This is a nice cue (from my cuemaker, Bob Owen of Shurtz Cues)

This is one of my favorites, is has a spalted striped ebony butt sleeve and forearm with half spliced points with black and white veneers around amboyna burl. Four windows of amboyna burl with black and white veneers decorate the butt sleeve. The cue has 60 ivory inlays, ivory joint, ivory butt cap and a leather wrap.
 

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