Looking for Ebony

sileighty_guru

5A Grade Wood Pecker
Silver Member
Hey guys, I'm searching for a piece of high grade gabon ebony (I know it's hard to come by) looking for a deep black 2A or better! and need cue length 2x2x18 or bigger maybe 1.5x1.5x18 or bigger if aged properly!
Thanks
PM me if you have any and would not mind selling a piece :thumbup:
 
Hey guys, I'm searching for a piece of high grade gabon ebony (I know it's hard to come by) looking for a deep black 2A or better! and need cue length 2x2x18 or bigger maybe 1.5x1.5x18 or bigger if aged properly!
Thanks
PM me if you have any and would not mind selling a piece :thumbup:

If you can't find what your looking for buy a couple of pieces of Macasar or striped Ebony. When it is turned to size and finished sanded use some Indian Ink as a dye let it dry 24 hour's and apply finish, you will have the hit, weight, and color of Gabon Ebony.

Take Care
 
If you can't find what your looking for buy a couple of pieces of Macasar or striped Ebony. When it is turned to size and finished sanded use some Indian Ink as a dye let it dry 24 hour's and apply finish, you will have the hit, weight, and color of Gabon Ebony.

Take Care

Craig,

I was wondering, is this method a custom "trick in the book" which many use
but not "enlighten" to often ?
Also, I'm not sure what the "Indian Ink" is but is this something you apply
with a pice of wool - dipped in the color ?
Was just wondering if this would "wet" the wood and change the characteristics
of the wood and possibly warp it.

I know from my days in the 80s that many cues used the funky colors -
in my case the McDermotts - and some keeps the stain but some also loose
the character - as my old D-series McD.

Kent
 
hey guys deal fell through :( still looking for some coal balck gabon ebony! must be some cue makers out there with some extra ;)
 
Craig,

I was wondering, is this method a custom "trick in the book" which many use
but not "enlighten" to often ?
Also, I'm not sure what the "Indian Ink" is but is this something you apply
with a pice of wool - dipped in the color ?
Was just wondering if this would "wet" the wood and change the characteristics
of the wood and possibly warp it.

I know from my days in the 80s that many cues used the funky colors -
in my case the McDermotts - and some keeps the stain but some also loose
the character - as my old D-series McD.

Kent

India ink is a richly colored ink that used to be used in fountain pains. It makes a good stain.

I have put some stain or a marker on Gabon ebony when after the final pass a small lighter colored streak or spot occurs but I've never "Ebonized" another type of wood. Many factory cues do this however but use maple or such types and then stain black to look like ebony. Predator cues is a fairly popular brand that does this.

Dick
 
India ink is a richly colored ink that used to be used in fountain pains. It makes a good stain.

I have put some stain or a marker on Gabon ebony when after the final pass a small lighter colored streak or spot occurs but I've never "Ebonized" another type of wood. Many factory cues do this however but use maple or such types and then stain black to look like ebony. Predator cues is a fairly popular brand that does this.

Dick

Thanks Dick,

I was aware that some stain ''normal´´wood black to look like ebony, but I
was kind of unsure if the Edit: Macassar Ebony was accepted as "ebony" if you added
some stain to darken streaks for instance.
Also, thanks for the explanation of Indian Ink. For me this totally unknown
but I guess there is other wood "stains" which is dedicated for this purpose.

Was searching for that dark Ebony my self for a while and have now many species
which was supposed to be "jet black" from the resellers - but not that black
when you receive it and get started on it...

K
 
Last edited:
If you can't find what your looking for buy a couple of pieces of Macasar or striped Ebony. When it is turned to size and finished sanded use some Indian Ink as a dye let it dry 24 hour's and apply finish, you will have the hit, weight, and color of Gabon Ebony.

Take Care

Probably difficult to do right up next to any veneers.

BTW, other cue makers are a poor source to try to obtain top grade materials from. If they took the time to acquire them, why would they just hand them over to anyone who asks? Your best bet is to shop the actual wood suppliers as that is their business.

I have a large stash of 1 pc Titlist cues that I invested in to convert and sell as the opportunities present themselves. Once in a while I get a request to buy one from me so it can be taken to someone else for conversion... It probably doesn't occurr to the requester, but that's like taking money out of my pocket and handing it over to someone else. Why would I do that? I see trying to buy premium woods from another cue maker as being similar.

I know there was no offence intended in the request, but unless somone knows you really well, or feels extra friendly that day (which doesn't happen much with cue makers) there is just no motivation to fulfill that request. I don't want to sound un-friendly, but that's just my opinion. Believe me, I have passed leads to good deals on wood on to other cue makers, but I tend to do so AFTER my shipment has arrived. ;) It just isn't that easy to find good wood.
Mr H
 
Probably difficult to do right up next to any veneers.

BTW, other cue makers are a poor source to try to obtain top grade materials from. If they took the time to acquire them, why would they just hand them over to anyone who asks? Your best bet is to shop the actual wood suppliers as that is their business.

I have a large stash of 1 pc Titlist cues that I invested in to convert and sell as the opportunities present themselves. Once in a while I get a request to buy one from me so it can be taken to someone else for conversion... It probably doesn't occurr to the requester, but that's like taking money out of my pocket and handing it over to someone else. Why would I do that? I see trying to buy premium woods from another cue maker as being similar.

I know there was no offence intended in the request, but unless somone knows you really well, or feels extra friendly that day (which doesn't happen much with cue makers) there is just no motivation to fulfill that request. I don't want to sound un-friendly, but that's just my opinion. Believe me, I have passed leads to good deals on wood on to other cue makers, but I tend to do so AFTER my shipment has arrived. ;) It just isn't that easy to find good wood.
Mr H

I have to agree with every word spoken here. I never buy grade able materials from other cue makers. Pins, metal rings, joints and such items I can see as there is little difference and the seller probably got a good buy by loading up and now trying to recoup some of his investment. I never ever buy figured wood or shaft wood from a cue maker as why would I want to put into one of my cues that is not good enough for one of theirs. I did take a chance with some ebony from Dave Barenbrugge which I was very happy with but it's not often I take such a chance. I've got plenty of bland or wet or poor shaft wood and need no more.

Dick
 
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