Low deflection qualities in a single piece shaft?

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Impact Blue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm just curious: Since it's lore that a reduced mass at the tip of a cue produces less swerve, a 12mm vs. a 13mm of the same ferrule material should deflect less, right?

So, this should include tapers as well? Seeing how a conical taper would include a denser mass of wood compared to that of a pro-taper, if both were the same tip size.

I was just thinking how it's possible to have a single piece shaft turned down, to incorporate a better feel, but also have the forgiveness of a LD shaft. Carbon fiber insert? Shortened ferrule? Shortened ferrule and thin walled/big tenon....you get the idea.

Thanks for your input!
 
Blasphemy!!! Can't be done!!!

If it ain't Predator it's crap!!!! KOOLAID, I need more Koolaid! :rolleyes:


I'll buy the idea of getting a more "pro tapered" shaft that still hits stiff, the rest, in my experience, is "snake oil" and marketing. Your results may vary.

I am not an expert, my tests are not scientific, and I do not have the perfect robot stroke. However, I also have yet to hit with anything from Predator that didn't hit like a cheap stack of legos.

If they made a shaft that had all these mystical qualities, a long pro taper, and had that old timey "BONK!" I'd be the first one in line.






(actually, I am going to try an OB-1 from the "for sale" section on here soon, in hopes of proving myself wrong). :eek:



I guess to address your question, instead of just rant like an idiot, I should mention the cue I just got form Harry Richards has a VERY stilll taper, AND the "BONK!". I am still getting used to it, but I like how it sounds, feels and moves the cue ball. People post on here a lot about the taper on a Bushka, SW and others that offer "low deflection".

The shorter dual cone tapers, like my HR, feel very different in follow through than a smoochy or Pred, but like everything else, it's what you get used to.
 
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Since it's lore that a reduced mass at the tip of a cue produces less swerve
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It doesn't. You can argue it creates more swerve but less cueball deflection.

There are ways to improve deflection qualities of conventional shafts.
 
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The endmass of the last 6 inches of the shaft is the major factor in deflection. Taper has very little to do with deflection, I've made shafts with straight tapers that deflect extremely little.
 
last 6 inches of the shaft
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LAST 6 inches?
Spoken like a cnc tapering machine.
G01 X29 Y.256 ?:D


Short uncapped ferrule and thin front 6" do it for me too.
 
i feel like the straight tapers(depending on the taper)actually deflect less than the pro tapers.


Joey when did you start going uncapped?
 
masonh said:
i feel like the straight tapers(depending on the taper)actually deflect less than the pro tapers.


Joey when did you start going uncapped?
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This year.
All those with 3/4 melamine are not capped.
 
i definitely think it's the way to go.you might want to try my yellow again now.it's even stronger than the LBM,which i think is plenty strong anyway.i have only seen a few crack and they were being used to break with.
 
Here is a question to clear something up for me, I have never built a cue and don't imagine I ever will but... Is the tennon seperate from the shaft? Meaning do you screw and glue the tennon in? I am asking because some people have told me that low deflection shafts are usually hollow near the tip of the shaft. I have never cut one open so I don't know. And I would assume that the tennon would have to be a seperate peice from the shaft to achieve this but again assumptions don't help all to often.
 
rcarson said:
Here is a question to clear something up for me, I have never built a cue and don't imagine I ever will but... Is the tennon seperate from the shaft? Meaning do you screw and glue the tennon in? I am asking because some people have told me that low deflection shafts are usually hollow near the tip of the shaft. I have never cut one open so I don't know. And I would assume that the tennon would have to be a seperate peice from the shaft to achieve this but again assumptions don't help all to often.
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The answer is: Sometimes. A tenon can still be made on a hollow shaft. Predator does this.
Or, a tenon can be added. Or, a tenon can be cut on the ferrule.
 
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