I suspect he has things worthwhile, but I have grown weary of reading his long winded side tracking mostly about himself posts ... so I use the scroll down trick.
Dave <-- appreciates brevity
Machinist level?
- Thread starter TrxR
- Start date
Dave <-- appreciates brevity
Yeah, that write-up on a machinist level was more than I needed to read.
Great idea, I think I'm going to try that, thank you.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Oh wow! I only have numb nuts on there and the forum improved 10X.I currently have 61 entries in my ignore list.
Life is too short....
I thought i was doin something at 13. You rock brother. Sometimes i check i check on a couple just to see if their lunacy has ebb'd. Nope. Move on.I currently have 61 entries in my ignore list.
Life is too short....
Nice. I got mine (the 12") years back. It too looked (and looks) unused, even has the oil paper, all packing and original inspection slip in the wooden box. Great deals can be found. Hope you find a good home for yours.
BTW the vials are replaceable, so if one comes across a cheap deal for a 98 with broken vial grab it and fix it.
Dave
(assuming this is about calibrating a machinist level)
I use two hard stops. Aligning marks does not work as well for me, hard stops on the corner of my surface plate are fool-proof.
Dave <-- occasionally a fool
You mean you cant get the bubble to line up equally in both directions? Are you using a sturdy, rigid bench and work top?
No, I am speaking to the precision needed when reversing directions. If you are a little out the calibration can be faulty or frustrating. Therefore I do not rely on marks, I use hard stops (see https://www.travers.com/category/positioning-stops-tools for examples ... my setup is 1-2-3 blocks clamped to the sides of the surface plate).
I have a very sturdy work bench with a 2" maple top (damn I hate moving that!), and a (grade B) granite surface plate for resting the level. I've also used my milling machine table with the blocks clamped down but prefer the surface plate, better height for this work.
BTW in case anyone is wondering I have 3 Starrett 98s, a 4" and 6" that were rebuilt and the 12" almost new. Have done the calibrations a few times over the years
Dave <-- has a pretty level lathe
Now I get it. I'm sure that works great, good thinking!!!!No, I am speaking to the precision needed when reversing directions. If you are a little out the calibration can be faulty or frustrating. Therefore I do not rely on marks, I use hard stops (see https://www.travers.com/category/positioning-stops-tools for examples ... my setup is 1-2-3 blocks clamped to the sides of the surface plate).
I have a very sturdy work bench with a 2" maple top (damn I hate moving that!), and a (grade B) granite surface plate for resting the level. I've also used my milling machine table with the blocks clamped down but prefer the surface plate, better height for this work.
BTW in case anyone is wondering I have 3 Starrett 98s, a 4" and 6" that were rebuilt and the 12" almost new. Have done the calibrations a few times over the years
Dave <-- has a pretty level lathe
snookered_again
Well-known member
it's normal for someone using an accurate level to keep flipping it end for end, if it is out a line or two you will see right away... I see what you mean though with a very accurate level you want a rigid and hopefully close to level surface to adjust it with, otherwise it's just all over the place and confusing things while you are in the process of making fine adjustments.
basically even if the level is out a little , what you want to see is the same error either way, then you know it's level even with a level that is adjusted poorly and out by out a line or two. If its dead on it just saves a bit of flipping so you can find true level. Nicer if it is.
basically even if the level is out a little , what you want to see is the same error either way, then you know it's level even with a level that is adjusted poorly and out by out a line or two. If its dead on it just saves a bit of flipping so you can find true level. Nicer if it is.
Overkill is never a bad thing when you're calibrating a precision instrument!No, I am speaking to the precision needed when reversing directions. If you are a little out the calibration can be faulty or frustrating. Therefore I do not rely on marks, I use hard stops (see https://www.travers.com/category/positioning-stops-tools for examples ... my setup is 1-2-3 blocks clamped to the sides of the surface plate).
I have a very sturdy work bench with a 2" maple top (damn I hate moving that!), and a (grade B) granite surface plate for resting the level. I've also used my milling machine table with the blocks clamped down but prefer the surface plate, better height for this work.
BTW in case anyone is wondering I have 3 Starrett 98s, a 4" and 6" that were rebuilt and the 12" almost new. Have done the calibrations a few times over the years
Dave <-- has a pretty level lathe
Hard Knock Cues
Well-known member
I just changed the vial in a 98-12" i bought with a cracked one. This time I Clamped a framing square on the top of my table saw for a hard stop to calibrate it. I rechecked a couple I calibrated not long ago using just lines drawn on a table and one was slightly off.No, I am speaking to the precision needed when reversing directions. If you are a little out the calibration can be faulty or frustrating. Therefore I do not rely on marks, I use hard stops (see https://www.travers.com/category/positioning-stops-tools for examples ... my setup is 1-2-3 blocks clamped to the sides of the surface plate).
I have a very sturdy work bench with a 2" maple top (damn I hate moving that!), and a (grade B) granite surface plate for resting the level. I've also used my milling machine table with the blocks clamped down but prefer the surface plate, better height for this work.
BTW in case anyone is wondering I have 3 Starrett 98s, a 4" and 6" that were rebuilt and the 12" almost new. Have done the calibrations a few times over the years
Dave <-- has a pretty level lathe