Magic Eraser-a testimonial with pictures

[billyjack]

Like many AZers, I prefer a super-clean, super-smooth unwaxed shaft on my cues. While the benefits of Mr. Clean Magic Eraser have been discussed here often, I thought my recent shaft reconditioning earned one more post. I recently bought a used cocobolo / leather McDermott on eBay as a backup. While the eBay pics showed a dirty ferrule, I wasn’t prepared for what I saw when I first unwrapped the shaft. This thing looked like the shaft was made of tight grain mahogany! (see “before” pics) Fifteen minutes with a chunk of Magic Eraser-first with alcohol, then with water to get the really bad stuff gave the results in the “after” pics. After an alcohol wipe to catch any moisture it was ready for a reseal. Not even the ME could get all the red chalk out of the ferrule, however. It took some polishing with 1800 abrasive and .003 of diameter to get it all white again. After two thin coats of sanding sealer on the shaft, polishing with 4000 and 8000 abrasive cloth, and a new Sniper tip we were ready the next morning.
It all reminded me of something I was told by a framing carpenter years ago when I asked why he carried two chalk boxes on the job. His reply was “Blue chalk if you need a line now, red if you need a line forever”

As the TV commercials say "Thanks Mr. Clean!"

Bill

 

[Samiel]

Wow! That's some testimonial!

I've tried the ME and didn't get as good results... but maybe I was doing something wrong? Was it just the ME itself with alcohol and water to get it that clean?

 

[Endymion]

What kind of alcohol did you use? I thought someone had mentioned denatured but all I could find was isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Obligatory Predator caution: Don't use water on a Predator shaft as they have water soluble glues.

 

[Handsumm]

I cannot believe someone would sell a shaft that looked like that. That's like going off roadin' before you sell your 4x4 and leaving the mud on.

 

[chilli66]

Magic Eraser rocks! Even used dry it makes my shaft look way better. Whoever it was that first suggested it deserves a knighthood (or at least a well done.)

 

[Paul Mon]

The first one who I remember mentioning it was TommyT

 

[chilli66]

The first one who I remember mentioning it was TommyT

Sir TommyT it is then. Well done.

 

[pete lafond]

No question about it

ME works wonders, plus you don't have to worry about taking down the shaft's diameter.

Also, there are newer variations to ME that work so well you can clean a clear coated Rolls Royce without leaving even the tiniest scratch, assuming you use the right solvent. We had some manufactured for a test and gave a piece out with some of our SlipStic Cleaner-Conditioner products with very positive results.

Also, understanding how it works and what solvents promote the best performance is key. It is the fibers that break down and form small 'C' shapes that creates the success, this is why the sponge reduces in size. These shapes are incredibly tiny and fall slightly behind the dirt, grime and even marker stains. They hook together (kind of like bubbles interlocking in bath water) and lift the dirt off. A solvent that maintains the "C" shape will yield the best results.

Petroleum products cause them to close to fast, the result is that it will not work well. Water works fine though there are even better solutions.

What we did is add a solvent, very expensive at about .04 cents a gram, that achieves three things; 1. enables the fibers to retain their shape. 2. adds a "tuberous" coating to the fibers so they hurt nothing, this was difficult because the fibers are so tiny and 3.evaporates leaving absolutely no trace of itself.

However; DO NOT USE on the butt or wrap on your cue. The reason is that any slight imperfection to the finish or any breaks in the string WILL start to cause more damage. As it finds a place to seat itself, it begins to pull.

Finally, the roughness you feel on the shaft are; 1. the fibers left behind that you need to wash off and 2. tiny wood fiber hairs that burnishing will remove (BTW, these were already there, just tucked and acting as unwanted collectors. w/o ME you could have never exposed them) also, You can use a white envelope to burnish with.

 

[TommyT]

Sir TommyT it is then. Well done.

Yes. It was me. two years ago on the CCB board. Thanks to my lovely wife for bringing the ME home.

TommyT

 

[pete lafond]

Yes. It was me. two years ago on the CCB board. Thanks to my lovely wife for bringing the ME home.

TommyT

Maybe some are aware, but the ME is melamine sponge. It is the stuff they use inside of Speaker Cabinets. The discovery of how it worked was by accident.

 

[Barbara]

Yes. It was me. two years ago on the CCB board. Thanks to my lovely wife for bringing the ME home.

TommyT

Yeah Tommy,

That tip was the BEST!! I turned on a certain cuemaker about it and all he says to do is to make sure you seal your shaft pores well after you use it.

Barbara

 

[Neil]

................

 

[Barbara]

Or....

Looks like it works great! But if you still have some red on the ferrule or wherever, try Q-CLEAN. It's actually a powdered bleach I believe. It works good.

Toothpaste works good, too. It actually will seal cracks in ivory ferrules. Don;t ask me how. Another tid-bit from a well-known cuemaker.

Just don't use the "Minty Green". That would be MY advice.

Barbara

 

[billyjack]

Wow! That's some testimonial!

I've tried the ME and didn't get as good results... but maybe I was doing something wrong? Was it just the ME itself with alcohol and water to get it that clean?

ME was the only cleaner I used. I first tried it with 90% isopropyl alcohol, which is my regular routine on all my shafts, and a lot of the chalk and dirt came out, but not all. A second scrubbing with water got the wood nice and clean. I followed up with an alcohol wipe to absorb any remaining moisture. I then wiped it down with a tack rag to get any particles left behind, and started spreading sealer while the wood pores were opened up.

Bill

 

[billyjack]

What kind of alcohol did you use? I thought someone had mentioned denatured but all I could find was isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Obligatory Predator caution: Don't use water on a Predator shaft as they have water soluble glues.

Ordinarily, I'll use 90% isopropyl alcohol from the drug store. You can also buy it in 50% version, but that contains water. Now, after Pete's post, I see why it took water to get out the nastiest stuff. Thanks for the tech info Pete. The anatomy of the ME sponge sounds similar to the technology of microfiber cloth, with the little "hooks" at work.
Bill

 

[PKM]

Do you need to use a sealer after using the ME?

 

[JimS]

Do you need to use a sealer after using the ME?

I used the ME w/water, then alcohol, then dried w/a towel, then burnished with a piece of leather.

 

[billyjack]

Do you need to use a sealer after using the ME?

No, a sealer is not really necessary. You can just smooth the sightly rough finish left by the ME, burnish and be done. I just like to seal my shafts to take advantage of the extra moisture protection as well as reducing the accumulation of chalk dust and dirt. I prefer my shafts without any additives or waxes, just the smooth finish that I get from 8000abrasive cloth. Regular maintenance is a microfiber cloth wipe at the end of the night, and an alcohol wipe every other week or so. ME treatment is usually only a few times a year.
Bill
Bill

 

[oncepkt]

Crap, I was just at wally world yesterday and forgot the ME. I would like to use some kind of sealer or wax after cleaning, but I don't want anything that would 'grab' or stick when the shaft changes directions in your bridge hand.

Is there something at wally world that would work for this purpose? Or is it the case that nothing will feel better than the bare wood? Thanks

 

[crosseyedjoe]

Nah, I still like the natural patina.