make my break/jump/play cue pls!

[It's George Old Owner]

i need some1 to make a break/jump/play cue to my specs..

unilock phenolic joint
any jump joint
design etc is secondary

i've contacted a few makers n they seem unwilling to make this kinda cue for me..any1 out there have any idea on how i may go abt doing this?or any makers willing to make this for me?

thx

 

[duke@neo.rr.com]

ok

i need some1 to make a break/jump/play cue to my specs..

unilock phenolic joint
any jump joint
design etc is secondary

i've contacted a few makers n they seem unwilling to make this kinda cue for me..any1 out there have any idea on how i may go abt doing this?or any makers willing to make this for me?

thx

look up Dan Dishaw. I know he uses a phenolic joint w/ unilok pin as I'm trying to sell one of his early cues w/ the same joint.

 

[It's George Old Owner]

look up Dan Dishaw. I know he uses a phenolic joint w/ unilok pin as I'm trying to sell one of his early cues w/ the same joint.

u got his email?

 

[duke@neo.rr.com]

no

u got his email?

no, it's in the blue book and I'm not going to get it now. maybe someone else has it handy

 

[Poolschool]

Try Dick Neighbors aka rhncue here on the forums... He does excellent work. www.dickiecues.com

 

[bignik957]

You should contact Pat Diveney @ diveneycues.com as he has made me several break jump cues close to what you described ,he makes a very solid good hitting cue. Tell him Big Nik sent you.

 

[krbsailing]

just my $.02

I think making a J/B with a uniloc pin (if I understand you) is a mistake

The best J/B I've owned was a Ron Waller which had a 3/8-10 wood to wood joint. The Mike Stacey I have now is almost as good which has a 3/8-11 pin wood to wood.

Just my $.02 but, I think a wood to wood joint is much more solid and desireable for a jump/break cue vs. a uniloc!?

Best of luck with your new cue

 

[duke@neo.rr.com]

yes

I think making a J/B with a uniloc pin (if I understand you) is a mistake

The best J/B I've owned was a Ron Waller which had a 3/8-10 wood to wood joint. The Mike Stacey I have now is almost as good which has a 3/8-11 pin wood to wood.

Just my $.02 but, I think a wood to wood joint is much more solid and desireable for a jump/break cue vs. a uniloc!?

Best of luck with your new cue

I agree whole heartedly Ken

 

[It's George Old Owner]

Try Dick Neighbors aka rhncue here on the forums... He does excellent work. www.dickiecues.com

i don't c any of his cues using unilock joints..from what i heard, unilock joints need a special machine to make these joints..that's y most makers don't wanna go into it..

 

[Bamacues]

I concur with Ken and Jeff, but if that is what you want, let me know how it turns out. I don't think I would contact Dan Dishaw for something like this. Price would be about like having Southwest build it (but theirs would be with 3/8x11 and hit like a brick....well, you know... ).

I know you will get the quick release for the loints by using uniloc, but that joint has the tendency to come loose. Seems like on a jump/break, it could happen a lot. Has anyone had a J/B with uniloc?

 

[It's George Old Owner]

I think making a J/B with a uniloc pin (if I understand you) is a mistake

The best J/B I've owned was a Ron Waller which had a 3/8-10 wood to wood joint. The Mike Stacey I have now is almost as good which has a 3/8-11 pin wood to wood.

Just my $.02 but, I think a wood to wood joint is much more solid and desireable for a jump/break cue vs. a uniloc!?

Best of luck with your new cue

i know it's the worst joint for a j/b..but i need a cue where i can remove the shaft so quickly that it won't bother me at all..

 

[It's George Old Owner]

I concur with Ken and Jeff, but if that is what you want, let me know how it turns out. I don't think I would contact Dan Dishaw for something like this. Price would be about like having Southwest build it (but theirs would be with 3/8x11 and hit like a brick....well, you know... ).

I know you will get the quick release for the loints by using uniloc, but that joint has the tendency to come loose. Seems like on a jump/break, it could happen a lot. Has anyone had a J/B with uniloc?

the closest i've gotten is only a unilock break cue..that's my BK1..
i've been breaking real hard using it n so far no probs..any cue that i use i always rem to tighten the joints b4 any shot..
unilock hasn't come loose for me yet

 

[Varney Cues]

I'll admit...I'm one who refused to make the cue for him. I just will not make one of my j/b's with a unilock joint....sorry.

 

[It's George Old Owner]

I'll admit...I'm one who refused to make the cue for him. I just will not make one of my j/b's with a unilock joint....sorry.

KV..i ain't complaining abt u..i know my specs is rather tedious..glad u could offer me help still thx

 

[cueball1950]

i have a pete ohman omen J/B. it has only been test hit a couple of times. will let it go for $300.00 shipped....if not then good luck in your search......mike

 

[It's George Old Owner]

i have a pete ohman omen J/B. it has only been test hit a couple of times. will let it go for $300.00 shipped....if not then good luck in your search......mike

is it a unilock joint?thx

 

[GADawg]

I think making a J/B with a uniloc pin (if I understand you) is a mistake

The best J/B I've owned was a Ron Waller which had a 3/8-10 wood to wood joint. The Mike Stacey I have now is almost as good which has a 3/8-11 pin wood to wood.

Just my $.02 but, I think a wood to wood joint is much more solid and desireable for a jump/break cue vs. a uniloc!?

Best of luck with your new cue

I agree. My Varney J/B has 3/8-10 wood to wood on both joints. Hits a ton.

I'm a little confused also as the original request appeared to want a combined Jump/Break/Playing cue. I'm not sure what kind of tip provides the best performance for all of those functions.

 

[It's George Old Owner]

I agree. My Varney J/B has 3/8-10 wood to wood on both joints. Hits a ton.

I'm a little confused also as the original request appeared to want a combined Jump/Break/Playing cue. I'm not sure what kind of tip provides the best performance for all of those functions.

i won't be using just 1 shaft..that's y i need the unilock joint
1 butt n 2 shafts are all i need..

 

[Chris' Cues]

in the j/b cues i have built, the only place to use a unilock joint is in the jump joint. Another problem with a unilock joint is the price. For me it is a $100 option. More expensive to buy and a pain to instal correctly.
Chris

 

[loglivn]

i need some1 to make a break/jump/play cue to my specs..

unilock phenolic joint
any jump joint
design etc is secondary

i've contacted a few makers n they seem unwilling to make this kinda cue for me..any1 out there have any idea on how i may go abt doing this?or any makers willing to make this for me?

thx

Try this guy. He uses the joint you want.
http://www.chiltoncue.com/html/index2.htm