Make my own cue case?

I am just starting a case project. I will post some pics when it is done. I am using heavy cardboard tubes. 3 inches and inside 2 inches, slicing them lengthwise with a blade, covering them with *****en noughide, (sorry, cant spell that word) using headliner foam backed fabric, to line the inside, underneath the foam fabric headliner is a thinner cardboard, on side the cardboard is folded in the shape of a V this side will be the butt side, the other side the thin cardboard is folded in the shape of a W , this will be for the 2 shafts, I am making noughide straps the will be held on with rivets, and there will be an insertion clasp on the end of each of the 3 clasps, there will be a carrying handle on one side riveted through the heavy cardboard tube. Sound neat hu?
I am using a spray fabric glue to keep everything in place.
There is lots of noughide that look like exotic animal skins. I may also put my name on the case to personalize it. Have you ever seen a case like I have described?
I will take pics during the process if anyone would like to see how its done.
 
I would like pics. Any reason you are not using PVC? Seems like it would offer a little more protection and be waterproof. John
 
Made it

Hey, I know this is maybe 5 years too late but recently I got the motivations to build my own wooden case. This is how i did it. (Mine was for a 2x2 with 3 slots for chalk, pens, rulebooks).

Tools and supplies:
-Wood Glue
-Electric Drill with the changeable bit to make it a power screw driver.
-Hand Saw (not a powered one)
-Sand Paper block (Coarse and Fine)

EXTERIOR
Step 1. Measured and realized that I need a total internal area of 33 inches by 8 inches. I went to Lowes, measured and got:
2 pieces of pine board wood 35" x 10" x 1" thick.

Step 2. Wanted the internal area to be a total of 2 inches high. Got:
2 pieces of pine wood 33" x 2" x 1" thick.
2 pieces of pine wood 10" x 2" x 1" thick.

Step 3. Made small pilot holes on one board through and through for the screws. Lined up the edges and used 2" (no 12) screws to screw the sides into the base.

Step 4. Got hinges to attach the second board to the top and clamps on the other side to hold it shut. Also, attached the hangle to carry it.

Step 5. Unscrewed the lid portion and removed claps, hinges and handle to stain the whole box. Once that was done, I started on the inside.

INTERIOR
Step 1. Use a pen and draw the rough design on the inside. Cut and apply regular felt to the sides on the inside.

Step 2. Get pine wood as needed with a maximum height of 1.75 inches.

Step 3. Get a half inch foam (its the light green one) and lay it on the inside. Make sure that where ever you plan on setting the pine wood "partitions" there is a gab between the foam and exposed base. Attach the handle to the box.

Step 4. Stick the foam to the board in the place you will be resting your cues etc.

Step 5. While you wait for the foam to stick, take the pine wood thin boards that will be the partitions and apply the felt material to them. (I used the sticker felt that you can get at Marshalls for like 89c for a 12x12 piece). Once done with that go back to the box.

Step 6. Use regular felt (not the sticker one) and lay it out on the entire base covering the foam completely. Cut a single slit the length of the partitions on the felt. Once cuts have been made stick the felt to the foam making sure you can still set the partitions in the slits.

Step 7. Apply wood glue to the slit areas on the wood and slide partitions into it. The partitions sliding in will stretch the flet on the base and give it a clean look.

Step 8. Leave to dry for atleast 24 hours. Place cues to make sure they fit.

COMPLETITION
Attach the lid back on the case with the hinges and clamps. If you want, you can also apply felt to the inside of the lid. (thats what I did).

I made this box literally over the weekend. I already have 3 orders to make these. Also, I did all this without any power tools except the drill.

Notes:
-Make sure you use WOOD SCREWS and NO NAILS.
-Make sure you dont get any glue on the exposed felt area.
-If you plan on staining the box, make sure to do so before you apply the felt and MAKE SURE no part of the box is sticky before you start working on the box.

If you want a box made, please contact me and I can make you one.

Hope this helps.

Sarim
 
sarimtirmizi said:
Hey, I know this is maybe 5 years too late but recently I got the motivations to build my own wooden case. This is how i did it. (Mine was for a 2x2 with 3 slots for chalk, pens, rulebooks).

Tools and supplies:
-Wood Glue
-Electric Drill with the changeable bit to make it a power screw driver.
-Hand Saw (not a powered one)
-Sand Paper block (Coarse and Fine)

EXTERIOR
Step 1. Measured and realized that I need a total internal area of 33 inches by 8 inches. I went to Lowes, measured and got:
2 pieces of pine board wood 35" x 10" x 1" thick.

Step 2. Wanted the internal area to be a total of 2 inches high. Got:
2 pieces of pine wood 33" x 2" x 1" thick.
2 pieces of pine wood 10" x 2" x 1" thick.

Step 3. Made small pilot holes on one board through and through for the screws. Lined up the edges and used 2" (no 12) screws to screw the sides into the base.

Step 4. Got hinges to attach the second board to the top and clamps on the other side to hold it shut. Also, attached the hangle to carry it.

Step 5. Unscrewed the lid portion and removed claps, hinges and handle to stain the whole box. Once that was done, I started on the inside.

INTERIOR
Step 1. Use a pen and draw the rough design on the inside. Cut and apply regular felt to the sides on the inside.

Step 2. Get pine wood as needed with a maximum height of 1.75 inches.

Step 3. Get a half inch foam (its the light green one) and lay it on the inside. Make sure that where ever you plan on setting the pine wood "partitions" there is a gab between the foam and exposed base. Attach the handle to the box.

Step 4. Stick the foam to the board in the place you will be resting your cues etc.

Step 5. While you wait for the foam to stick, take the pine wood thin boards that will be the partitions and apply the felt material to them. (I used the sticker felt that you can get at Marshalls for like 89c for a 12x12 piece). Once done with that go back to the box.

Step 6. Use regular felt (not the sticker one) and lay it out on the entire base covering the foam completely. Cut a single slit the length of the partitions on the felt. Once cuts have been made stick the felt to the foam making sure you can still set the partitions in the slits.

Step 7. Apply wood glue to the slit areas on the wood and slide partitions into it. The partitions sliding in will stretch the flet on the base and give it a clean look.

Step 8. Leave to dry for atleast 24 hours. Place cues to make sure they fit.

COMPLETITION
Attach the lid back on the case with the hinges and clamps. If you want, you can also apply felt to the inside of the lid. (thats what I did).

I made this box literally over the weekend. I already have 3 orders to make these. Also, I did all this without any power tools except the drill.

Notes:
-Make sure you use WOOD SCREWS and NO NAILS.
-Make sure you dont get any glue on the exposed felt area.
-If you plan on staining the box, make sure to do so before you apply the felt and MAKE SURE no part of the box is sticky before you start working on the box.

If you want a box made, please contact me and I can make you one.

Hope this helps.

Sarim
Click to expand...


How about some pics of the finished product?
 
Blue Hog ridr said:
Hahaha, Sterling will take care of you.
They will take your money, I can vouch for that.

And so I can save John the time of typing a 5 pager tomorrow.

Who cares what you think John, its just my opinion based on the quality and experience with
Sterling's customer service.
Click to expand...

I honestly think you need share you problems with Sterling Gaming Customer Service, as the one problem i had was taken care of faster than a speeding bullet.
 
Bill812 said:
FWIW, I use a rifle case that comes with 2 latches and 2 locks, foam in the lid and thicker foam in the base. I modified it to carry everything I could possibly need for pool while I'm away from home. I traced out 5 butts and a jump cue butt with a sharpie, then cut them out making a wedge cut to accomodate all 6 butts in base foam. I had a seamstress make up a bag that will fit in the case that holds 8 shafts. I still have room for extra chalk, 2 small hand towels, a plastic (won't scratch your shafts) bridge head, a 5-cue Cue Claw, 3 pair of Fingers Slides (sold here on AZ by a member), various grit sand paper, a cueshark 8 in 1 PUP tool (also sold here on AZ by a member), and I attached my Original Cueshark 11 in 1 carrying case to the handle with zip ties.
Fully loaded it probably wieghs 15-20 lbs, but it's not like you're carrying it on a 20 mile forced march. You can get rifle cases through most sporting goods outfitters, and they can range in price from $50-$200 or so, the shaft bag cost me $40 to have made, so all in all I have about $115 + some of my time time tied up in my "custom case" that holds my most prized possesions. Good luck to you.
---Bill
Click to expand...


This is a pretty cool idea, that I have seen some people use. I've also seen a violin case modified for cues. Lots of great ingenuity out there!
 
I have a wood case almost done on my bench as we speak...of course its been almost done for like 6months now lol...

I can't teach you anything you already know but I used poplar planks for the basic box, to keep the weight down after all the bells and whistles are added and because it resists water and warpage pretty well. I then veneered it with mahog and some simple inlay work...

Screws not nails, silicon waterproofed inside, steel cross brackets and corner braces inside...

Then I got crazy ideas...

Used the injectable foam to custom fit the cue compartment. Very tricky, be careful if you do this...

Also, I wanted a clean contemporary look so no latches or buckles were used....i used tiny rare earth magnets in the frame and lid to hold it closed...works well

Might add corner protectors because I don't trust myself not to drop it ...or I might just add a 1/4 inch layer of acrylic or some other clear layer instead...

Good luck
 
I have thought about making one out of schedule 40 pvc pipe. A couple of things for you to concider. If you seal it off with gaskets, keep in mind that you might be flying with it. Pressure is pretty low in a baggage compartment at 35000 feet.

Also it might get pretty beat up by baggage handlers. Thats why I was going to use pvc. But in this day and age, TSA might think its a rocket launcher.
 
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