Making New Shaft

Run the Century

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anybody have any tips on getting a new shaft flush with the butt (ie - when somebody asks you to make another shaft for their cue). I have been cutting it close to the diameter of the butt joint - then chucking up the butt using collars and sanding the last bit (being extremely careful not to touch the customers joint with sandpaper). Curious to know what you guys do (again - this is for a pre-existing butt - I use sanding mandrals for cues I make from scratch). Thanks guys!

Chris
 
Run the Century said:
Anybody have any tips on getting a new shaft flush with the butt (ie - when somebody asks you to make another shaft for their cue). I have been cutting it close to the diameter of the butt joint - then chucking up the butt using collars and sanding the last bit (being extremely careful not to touch the customers joint with sandpaper). Curious to know what you guys do (again - this is for a pre-existing butt - I use sanding mandrals for cues I make from scratch). Thanks guys!

Chris

I have a Buck Adjust-tru chuck on my shaft lathe. It looks like a normal 3 jaw chuck except it has four adjusting screws. Using a dial indicator you can get whatever is in it running dead nuts. When fitting a shaft to a existing cue I cut it a little oversize. Then I can screw it on and feel for any high spots. Then I adjust the chuck so it cuts heavier on the high side and take another cut and repeat. Two or three cuts and I can have it nice and flush.
 
Murray Tucker said:
I have a Buck Adjust-tru chuck on my shaft lathe. It looks like a normal 3 jaw chuck except it has four adjusting screws. Using a dial indicator you can get whatever is in it running dead nuts. When fitting a shaft to a existing cue I cut it a little oversize. Then I can screw it on and feel for any high spots. Then I adjust the chuck so it cuts heavier on the high side and take another cut and repeat. Two or three cuts and I can have it nice and flush.

I do very similer to you. I have a 6-jaw set-tru on one lathe but I don't mess with the 4-jaw part other than to get the chuck to run dead nuts. What I did a few years ago was to get a 4" 4-jaw chuck, bore it out large enough for a cue with a collett and, when needed, I mount this 4-jaw in my scroll chuck and adjust until the end of the joint is running absolutely true. I face the joint, put on the shaft and trim down to the exact size of the joint. I then take off the shaft and sand the shaft which makes it the proper size for putting on a finish.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I do very similer to you. I have a 6-jaw set-tru on one lathe but I don't mess with the 4-jaw part other than to get the chuck to run dead nuts. What I did a few years ago was to get a 4" 4-jaw chuck, bore it out large enough for a cue with a collett and, when needed, I mount this 4-jaw in my scroll chuck and adjust until the end of the joint is running absolutely true. I face the joint, put on the shaft and trim down to the exact size of the joint. I then take off the shaft and sand the shaft which makes it the proper size for putting on a finish.

I do pretty much the same thing. I cut the taper on the shaft just big enough to cover the offset, then chuck up on the butt and use a single point to knock the high side down. We should get extra money for working on crappy cues that don't have centered joint pins.... :rolleyes:
 
Amen Sheldon

Working on non centered pins is a *****. I discovered a great way last night to flush it up. I found the high side on the shaft and marked it with a pencil. I took a playing card and put it up to the shaft on the high side and found it made it flush (the thickness of the playing card was how high the shaft was). I then cut a small piece out of the card and chucked it up with the card as a "shim" underneath the low side. Put my right hand tool bit right at the edge of the low side of the shaft and cut (so it only cut out the high side). Worked perfect!

It would be a great cuemaking idea if someone made a set of shims of varing thickness.
 
Msc

I bought my brass shim stock assortment at MSC. It was pretty cheap and I cut shims as I need them.

Hu

(edited to add this link to MSC) http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

Run the Century said:
Working on non centered pins is a *****. I discovered a great way last night to flush it up. I found the high side on the shaft and marked it with a pencil. I took a playing card and put it up to the shaft on the high side and found it made it flush (the thickness of the playing card was how high the shaft was). I then cut a small piece out of the card and chucked it up with the card as a "shim" underneath the low side. Put my right hand tool bit right at the edge of the low side of the shaft and cut (so it only cut out the high side). Worked perfect!

It would be a great cuemaking idea if someone made a set of shims of varing thickness.
 
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