Marking a Table for 14.1?

Wink

14.1 Wannabe
Silver Member
What is the best way to mark a table for 14.1?

I assume make sure the rack is EXACTLY where it goes some how.

Holding the rack in place by someone else, Draw an outline around the rack. Draw a line on the table straight back from the spot to behind the rack.

What is best to use, a Sharpie?

Just got new cloth and want to do this right. Last time I knew I was replacing the cloth soon, so wasn't so worried about it.

Any thoughts, tips, helpful suggestions or pointers?

TIA
 
Use a carpenter's pencil first, when you're satisfied then go over the lines with a Sharpie.
 
Rack Out Line

What is the best way to mark a table for 14.1?

I assume make sure the rack is EXACTLY where it goes some how.

Holding the rack in place by someone else, Draw an outline around the rack. Draw a line on the table straight back from the spot to behind the rack.

What is best to use, a Sharpie?

Just got new cloth and want to do this right. Last time I knew I was replacing the cloth soon, so wasn't so worried about it.

Any thoughts, tips, helpful suggestions or pointers?

TIA


Tie a string across the second diamond as tight as you can get it. Also tie another string down the center of the table from diamond to diamond. Tie it under the table and use a small nail. You can put another string across the head string line also, to find the Head Spot.
The string will be tight enough that when you slip the rack under it. It will help hold down the rack. Use a Sharpie (black fine point). Hold down the rack and out line the rack. Make sure the ink drys completely before you start playing.
 
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Another Tip

I have seen those stick paper spots cause a ball to change direction when a ball is rolling slow enough and it hits the edge of the spot. I lost a good run once b/c the spot change the direction of the cue ball and I got stuck on a ball. Problem solved.
Get a washer the same size as a spot. Place it on the table and draw the out line. Also draw the inner circle. Color in the large area with the black sharpie, the small circle color in with a Sliver Sharpie. It is great. I also just make a small black circle at the Head Spot where the two strings connect. Make sure the ink drys.... Check out one of my videos and take a look at the spots I made.
You will never have to worry about a ball going over them. plus those paper spots come off and it is a pain.
 
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Got it all marked with pencil.

Doesn't look perfect, but it certainly is something that I can see when trying to determine which balls to leave for break balls. Not that that makes a heck of a lot of difference at my skill level... but trying to learn, nevertheless.

Steps:
1) I centered a straight edge across the centers of the second diamond, measured the centerpoint, and dropped a dot on the table with a pencil.
2) I centered a straight edge on the table lengthwise, by making equidistant from the easy to see line between the top of the cushion and the wood on the rails.
3) I drew a straight line from the dot (spot) towards the foot rail. I made this line two ball widths past the bottom edge of the rack for lining up improperly potted balls.
4) I centered a ball on the spot
5) I place my rack around the ball, holding the ball in position.
6) I measured the back two corners of the rack and made sure that they were equidistant to the foot rail (and the side rails)
7) I marked a line near the ends of each of the three sides
8) I used the straight edge to connect the lines
9) I recentered the rack inside the lines, and drew lines across the points
10) I extended the lines, and hand drew the rounding of the triangle points.
11) I erased any mistakes or marks

12) Trace over carefully with Sharpie (if you want)

Looks pretty darned good, and more importantly, it really helps me see the balls in or out of the rack FAR better.

Final question - I assume that the marks are legal for play? I see them on some tables and not on others.
 
I'll tell you how I do it, and I'm pretty fussy. :)

Just a word of caution for anyone eliminating the stick on spots on the foot spot. If you play any substantial amount of "hard break" games like 8 ball, 9, ball or any other, without that stick on spot, you're asking for trouble in the form of a hole in your cloth under the top ball in the rack. The stick on spot isn't so important at the other end of the table.

Once you have the headspot and foot spot marked it's easy to align the rack outline and the straight line from the spot to the center diamond on the short rail.

I like to use two strings, one pulled tightly long way across the table taped with painters tape to the center diamonds on both short rails,and do the same across the short side of the table across the head and foot line diamonds.

Then, ( LOL ) I cut the flat end of a crayon to make the crayon just a tad taller than the string and I place it under the string where it intersects and eyeball it plumb from two sides and then roll the crayon between my thumb and finger to mark the table. ( Fussy, huh?) :)

Then I put the stick on spot down ( I give it a light spray with 3M spray adhesive first) put a ball on the footspot and align the rack over it and with help, measure the two end corners of the rack to the short rail being sure they are equal distance (back of the rack parallel to the short rail exactly). I use a pencil to then mark off the rack.

Drawing the straight line I use a 4 foot level to cover half the center spot on the footspot and line up the other end to the center of the short rail diamond checking side to side measurements with a ruler from long rail to long rail. Once its on line, just draw that line.

The big thing is starting correctly with the spots.
 
Great ideas, I'll use the strings and the painters tape next time.

Thanks
 
BTW, if you are using a pencil, fine. If you are using a Sharpie, use a fine point Sharpie even if it means having to make a trip to the office supply store. I would be sure your straight edge is secure so you don't have to go too slowly as to allow the ink to bleed into the cloth.
 
and double check yourself with a ruler that the corners of the rack are the same distance away from rail. and from this point forwar you are gonna have to stick with that rack you own...so no buying a Delta 13, even though i recomend you do. Great rack for 14.1 !!! but oh well too late :grin::grin::grin:

-Steve
 
and double check yourself with a ruler that the corners of the rack are the same distance away from rail. and from this point forwar you are gonna have to stick with that rack you own...so no buying a Delta 13, even though i recomend you do. Great rack for 14.1 !!! but oh well too late :grin::grin::grin:

-Steve

Funny you would mention the Delta, which of course is oversize to allow you to get your hands in behind the last row better for racking. But I also have my smaller cheapo plastic rack for use if it will make the difference between a ball being either in or out.
 
I am using a nice Diamond Pro rack, and I love the nice groove it has in the back. I can line up the top two balls with the line in the center, the groove in the back of the rack with the line down the middle, and I know it is perfect. Plenty of room in the back for my finger to ensure it is a tight rack.

I'll have to check out the Delta though.
 
Delta 13, there is no substitute !!!

the diamond rack is good, but to thick, especially when you have a ball thats just outside of the normal racking area !

-Steve
 
I use the Delta 13 rack and have been very happy with it. I bought the cheap one and got used to noise after a few days. When my table was set up by Glen, aka Realkingcobra, he traced around it and I love it because it's so easy to rack. I never look at the spot anymore. Best of luck to you.
 
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